Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Bike Fitting For Better Performance

Bike fitting for better performance? When it comes to bicycles, one size doesn’t fit all. In fact, one size fits some and then each bike must be further tweaked to fit the individual. Even the lightest, fastest bicycle is useless if it doesn’t fit the intended rider. So many people ignore their bike fit until they experience discomfort, pain or injury. A reputable bike shop should provide basic bike fitting services with the purchase of a new bike. Not sure how your set-up fares? Try these tips for a basic set-up.

Saddle height

If you have an indoor trainer, mount the bike and begin pedalling. Or position yourself in a doorway and backpedal. After a few spins, enlist a friend to look at the angle of your legs. They should bend 80 to 90% or if you’re able to measure the angle, you should have 25 to 35 degrees of knee flexion, as measured at the actual knee, not the angle between the thigh and calf muscles. A higher saddle height is more aggressive and produces more power, but also places greater strain on the knee. If the back of your knees hurt, try lowering the saddle by a few millimetres. A lower saddle height, on the other hand, is better for spinning, but places greater stress on the knees. If you have pain in the front of the patella, try raising your bicycle seat.


Saddle position

Saddles or a bike seat can move in many directions, up, down, back and forward. Begin by using a level to ensure your saddle is parallel to the ground. Now set up the fore and aft positions. Have a friend use a plumb line (a nut tied to a piece of string works well) and stop your foot in the 3 o’clock position. Your friend should place the end of the string directly on the side of your knee and let the plumb line hang down to your foot. When properly set up, the plumb line should intersect with the ball of your foot.

Handlebars

To avoid neck, shoulder and hand pain, check the reach to the handlebars. A comfortable reach should keep hands wide enough so that the chest cavity is open and arms are straight with a slight bend in the elbow. You shouldn’t feel uncomfortably stretched out. If you are, swap to a shorter stem or one that is more upright. If you’re unsure of your position, take a video or photo of yourself riding to check that your upper body is relaxed.

Other bike fitting considerations


When you purchase a new bike, be sure to check the stand over height. You should have at least an inch between your body and the top tube.
Invest in the frame first and components second. Components can always be swapped out down the line, but you’re stuck with the bike’s frame size. Do your research first and be sure it’s the right one.
These guidelines aren’t hard and fast, as some people find that a tilted saddle or wide handlebars provide the perfect fit. Bicycle fit is dynamic, so periodically check your set-up for changes. If you’re having trouble with clipless pedals, experiencing pain or discomfort, it’s always best to seek out a professional for a proper bike fitting.

How to give your bike a check-up

You're ready to ride, but is your bike? Whether it's due to a long winter, bad weather, injury, or a global pandemic, sometimes our bicycles get neglected, sitting in the garage unused for months. Before you roll out to enjoy the warm summer months, here is a simple overview of how to check over your bike's basic component systems. This concept applies to mountain bikes, road bikes, gravel bikes ... anything with pedals and wheels!

Key bike systems to check

1. Shifting: Does your bike shift smoothly through the gears? Is there any hesitation in the derailleur? Does the shift lever feel sticky? Are the cassette teeth, derailleur pulleys, chain, or chainrings worn?
2. Brakes: Do the levers pull smoothly? Do the brakes drag? Are the brake pads worn? Is the brake lever feel soft or spongy (hydraulic disc brakes only)?
3. Wheels and tires: Are there any significant wobbles in your wheel when it spins? Is the tire tread worn out? Are there any cuts on the tire casing? Do the rims have any dents or damage? Are the hubs spinning smoothly and free of play?
4. Frame: Are there any dents or damage? Is the headset smooth and adjusted? Is the bottom bracket smooth and adjusted?
5. Suspension (mountain bike): Is the fork compressing and rebounding in a controlled manner? Is the rear suspension compressing and rebounding in a controlled manner? Are there any oil leaks? Is the dropper post compressing and extending easily? Does the dropper post have any sag?
6. Touchpoints: Are the grips/bar tape worn out? Is the saddle torn? Are pedals spinning smoothly and free of damage?
Remember this check-up is just a starting point to assess your bike's condition. If you find your bike needs maintenance, you might need help from your local bike shop before it's ready to ride.

Benefits of a Bike Trailer

 



For many cyclists, the idea of towing a bike trailer seems alien to the ‘free and easy’ experience of cycling – however there are many reasons for wanting to take a bike trailer when touring with your bike. Unlike using a set of full panniers, you will not find your balance affected as much by a bicycle trailer with a low center of gravity. Whereas, full bike panniers may cause a slight imbalance at the rear of the bicycle, a trailer will not – as it is a grounded weight that follows the track of the rear wheel of the bicycle. Primarily this is a safety concern but it also enables the cyclist to feel more confident when traveling, safe in the knowledge that their packed items are behind them and they still have a bicycle free from additional items.

Another safety benefit is that a bike trailer will not impede movement around the pedals and chain of the bicycle. Although a well-designed pannier will also avoid this pitfall, there is still a risk of the pannier coming into contact with the mechanisms of the bicycle and the legs of the cyclist. A bike trailer, on the other hand, is always kept well away from these areas and will not impede any moving mechanisms or the legs of the cyclist.


For convenience, a bicycle towing a trailer is also free to use a kickstand when stationary. Although this may not seem like a big deal, consider that there may be plenty of times where you are not able to perch your bicycle against a mile marker or wall – requiring a kickstand to rest the bicycle. Those fitted with panniers are unable to do so whereas trailer-laden bicycles can.  Single-wheel bike trailers are more difficult to park using a bicycle kickstand.  If you’re shopping for a bike trailer, consider the Maya Cycle bike trailer with a kickstand that holds your bicycle and trailer upright, CLICK HERE to learn more about Maya Cycle bike trailers.

One clear benefit to a trailer is the sheer amount of space within them, and therefore the amount of items that can be carried whilst touring. With a larger single space, bulky or heavy items can be carried easily. Unlike a pannier, which usually has several smaller compartments which prevent larger single items from being transported, a trailer allows the cyclist to carry items of a much larger mass and may therefore be much more useful for trips which require longer tours.

Thursday, June 11, 2020

Do you need an aero road bike?

If you get more aero, then you’ve effectively become faster. You’ve probably heard before that wind resistance is the main force riders have to fight against. This means that improving your aerodynamic efficiency gives you an unquestionable speed advantage.
Watch a modern professional bike race and you’ll likely see a number of riders on the sleek and slippery aero road bikes with advanced stealth-fighter-shaped frames.
Engineering modern aero bikes is an intensive, technical, and expensive process. Beyond ads and marketing, the world of aerodynamics is mysterious for everyday cyclists. Beyond feel and perception, it’s hard to know for sure how much difference an aero bike will make in everyday riding.
So if you’re looking at spending a few thousand dollars on your next bike, how do you know if an aero bike is worth considering? Can you be frugal and make yourself more aero on your current bike? Here’s what you need to know.

You don’t need to be fast to experience aero benefits

World Tour pros aren’t the only riders who benefit from improved aerodynamics. Your average rider can still gain valuable speed and time. I spoke to aero expert Mio Suzuki, Senior R&D Engineer leading aerodynamics at Specialized, who talked to me about the testing she’s done with riders of different levels. The magic number is surprisingly low — only 13mph.
“One of the findings we’ve made is that from 13mph and up, aerodynamics will come into play pretty significantly and have a very positive effect,” Suzuki says. “That sort of speed is pretty average for a rider who’s not competitive. Obviously, for professionals averaging 20-to-30mph, aerodynamics are important. But when measuring the time difference when moving from point A to point B, you still see noticeable aero time gains at much lower speeds.”
Suzuki explained that when looking at graphs tracking power and speed, it’s hard to tell if weight or stiffness makes any difference. But it’s easier to see when an aero bike is used because there is a quantifiable speed differential. Other than fitness, aerodynamics is the most important single factor that influences your speed on a road bike.
“We track data and make calculations for every category of rider to try and understand the effect of aerodynamics in a lot of different riding scenarios,” Suzuki says. “We have pretty detailed graphs and analyses of a lot of different situations. For your average everyday rider, like me, who’s often riding at 15mph, there's no question it will definitely make you faster.”

Aero bikes don’t compromise ride quality

In the past, reviewers liked to criticize aero bikes for having poor ride quality (either too noodly or too stiff) due to the shape of the frame tubes. But bike makers have put a lot of time, effort, and money into aero bike design and manufacturing to make them feel and ride like non-aero bikes.
Philippe Gilbert had no problem riding his aero Venge on the cobbles.
“A lot of manufacturers, including Specialized, are getting smarter about how to construct aero bikes,” Suzuki explains. “It’s definitely a design goal to make an aero bike that still rides like a traditional round-tubed bike.”
Carbon technology has progressed to the point that manufacturers can produce bikes of nearly any shape that exhibit the classic traits of lateral stiffness and vertical compliance. By controlling the carbon lay-up, the possibilities for precisely controlling ride quality are near limitless. When buying aero bikes made in the last five-to-ten years, riders should have few if any concerns about ride quality.
Even with aluminum bikes, clever hydroforming and welding now allow manufacturers to add stiffness to key points like the bottom bracket and compliance to areas like the seat stays.
“Compared to 10 years ago, aero bikes have evolved quite a bit. They don’t necessarily have the exact same ride feel,” Suzuki says. “But our engineering and manufacturing techniques make it so that aero bikes that too stiff or too noodly, as you say, aren’t really an issue anymore.”

Aero bikes can still climb

Weight is a big deal for riders interested in climbing, and aero bikes generally weigh more than their non-aero counterparts. But the difference may not be as big as you think.
When it comes to weight, advances in manufacturing have brought aero bikes very close to “traditional” road bikes. For example, let’s compare two Specialized road bikes — a 2020 S-Works Venge (left) and a 2020 S-Works Tarmac (right) — that are the same size, with similar builds, and equipped with the same wheels and tires.
The Venge weighs 15 lbs 15 oz while the Tarmac weighs 14 lbs 12 oz. Okay, one bike is a pound lighter. That might seem like a lot, but for most riders, the overall aero benefits will outweigh the climbing benefits.
Consider that the rider makes up the far larger percentage of the overall weight of the rider and bike combo. A single pound really only matters to riders who exist at the extremes of weight or performance. (To learn more about the effects of bike weight, check out our Does Bike Weight Matter article.)
Also, aerodynamics still come into play on climbs. Suzuki points out that the 13mph speed where aerodynamics make a positive difference is mainly quoted for flat terrain, but it’s applicable to climbing as well. The wind resistance at 13mph is the same going uphill or down. Less wind resistance will increase your speed uphill. Only on very steep gradients are you moving slow enough for weight to be a bigger factor.
Some tech articles found online will try to list specific gradients where aerodynamics are no longer a factor (e.g., at 8%+ weight will matter more for average riders). This may have some basis in fact, but Suzuki is hesitant to make specific claims like this.
“Rider weight, gradient, and a bunch of other variables all factor into climbing speed,” Suzuki says. “Because of that, there’s no way to say, universally, that there’s a single point where bike weight gains will be greater than aero gains.”
What advice can you take from this? Well, since aero bikes aren’t significantly heavier than comparable non-aero bikes, then weight should only be a major concern if your primary focus is climbing on very slow and steep climbs. For all the other times when the gradient eases and speeds rise, aero bikes will net greater speed advantages. Both Suzuki and I would likely choose an aero bike over a non-aero bike for our everyday riding.
Note that the importance of aerodynamics is transcending specialists bikes like the Venge and many “traditional” road bikes like the Tarmac are also starting to apply wind tunnel testing and aero shapes to make them better all-rounders. Though the current Tarmac isn’t as aerodynamic as the current Venge, Specialized’s most aerodynamic road bike offering, it’s nearly as aerodynamic as the first-generation Venge that helped ignite the aero bike boom in 2011.

Aluminum bikes can be aero too

Aero bikes aren’t always synonymous with high-end carbon dream machines. The Specialized Allez Sprint is one of the most popular road bikes for competitive road racers because it combines a robust and budget-friendly aluminum frame with aerodynamic efficiency that surpasses the first generation Venge.
The belief that carbon bikes are more aero than aluminum bikes comes from the reputation carbon has for being easy to manipulate. It can be manufactured into any shape an engineer can dream up, opening up more aero possibilities. But the Allez Sprint has shown that more traditional bike materials can still be competitive.
“In general I’d say it’s easier to make an aero carbon bike because of the shaping. But that doesn’t make it more aero,” Suzuki says. “Aluminum manufacturing technology has evolved a lot. If an aluminum frame can be made with an aero cross-section at the key points then I would say an aluminum bike could be just as aero or more. It all comes down to design. The Allez Sprint shows that.”
Other manufacturers are following suit. The main competitor for the Allez Sprint, Cannondale’s CAAD-series, has just come out with the aero aluminum CAAD13. As we said before, aero is transcending categories in the bike industry and it’s becoming clear that many future budget aero options will be available to satisfy more riders.

Aerodynamics are still a bit of a black box

The regular consumer can’t test bike aerodynamics because we don’t have access to wind tunnels or the necessary instruments. It’s not a simple as putting a bike on the scale. So are we reliant on manufacturer’s claims and magazine tests?
“I’ve done a lot of aerodynamic tests,” Suzuki says. “Knowing all the care we place into what we measure and how we measure things, I would like to say that the numbers and performance I can put out are trustworthy. As an engineer, I want true information.
“How is everybody else doing it? I can’t say for sure. I like to think everybody else is honest. Specialized is lucky because we own our facility. That means we can do as much wind tunnel testing as we want. If you don’t own a wind tunnel, then you have to go somewhere else and rent time. You pay per hour for usage of the tunnel so you have to carefully prioritize what to test and how to stay in budget. That might restrict the number of bikes or configurations they’re able to test.
“This is why you don’t see people and journalists just gather up 100 bikes to go compare in a tunnel. I’ve seen magazine tests and their results and they try to do their due diligence to compare bikes in a fair way. I’ve seen good tests and I’ve also seen questionable results. The questionable part being the protocols they follow.”
Unfortunately, we don’t live in a world where we have an easy way to test and compare bikes for ourselves. Most cycling publications provide nothing more than riding impressions for aero bikes. You could do some form of home testing with a flat road and a timer, but Suzuki warns that the results will be very subpar. It’s unlikely that you’ll extract meaningful data for the minute differences between two frames. The wind tunnel is the only precise and reliable tool.
If this concerns you, then consider that reputable aero manufacturers, such as Specialized, Trek, and Cervelo, sponsor pro riders and invest significant time in the wind tunnel. It’s in their best interest to actually make competitive bikes. If you want something effective, then looking at brands that actively discuss and showcase their wind tunnel testing may be prudent.

You can improve aerodynamics on your current bike

If you don’t want to purchase a new aero road bike, but you want the improve the aerodynamics of your current set-up, there are three key components to consider upgrading — your wheels, handlebars, and helmet.

“Definitely wheels,” Suzuki says. She emphasizes their importance. “Aero wheels are a great, great, great investment. They are what contact the air first and everything comes behind them. With wheels too, I would highly recommend doing research because just because something is deep doesn’t mean it’s the best wheel.”
Just like with aero frames, some brands put more effort into wind tunnel testing than others. Zipp and ENVE are great examples of high-quality wheel manufacturers that prove their wheels out in the wind tunnel. There are even budget options with extensive engineering and testing behind them.
Because handlebars are at the leading edge of the bike, aero handlebars can also make a significant improvement in your efficiency. Cervelo has done wind tunnel testing that has shown that handlebars contribute up to 30% of a bike’s overall drag at zero degrees of yaw.
Aero helmets began gaining popularity around the same time as dedicated aero bikes. In 2011, the same year the Venge was released, Mark Cavendish won the 2011 World Championship road race wearing an adapted Specialized aero road helmet with its vents covered. Aero helmets have since been adopted by the peloton and regular riders. Many aero helmets sacrifice very little in terms of ventilation for their aero performance so they are a convenient way to get an extra edge.

Good bike fit makes you more aerodynamic

If you're on the fence about aero bikes, then consider getting a bike fit instead. When discussing wheels, Suzuki was quick to bring up riding position and bike fit. According to her, they are as important to your performance as aerodynamics.
“If I were to put it all in order,” she says, “I think wheels and bike fit would be my two top things. Bike fit is really an underrated secret. In terms of aerodynamics, the rider position affects efficiency quite a bit. We do a lot of testing, particularly with professional athletes, in the wind tunnel. We’ll have their hands on the hoods as a baseline posture. Then we have them hold the drops so their back angle decreases into a bit more aggressive position. We have seen as much as a 10-20 watt difference between hands on the hoods versus in the drops. That’s super-significant."
Getting as low as possible on your bike has a very positive effect on your aerodynamic efficiency. The less your body is exposed to the wind, the less wind resistance you have to fight against. Suzuki warns, however, that this isn’t a prescription to slam your cockpit as low as possible.
“You might be able to get into a perfect, aggressive position, where your back angle is low and you’re out of the wind,” she says. “But what if you can only hold it for five seconds. If it’s not sustainable for two hours, or whatever the entire duration of your ride is, then it’s meaningless."

Instead, it’s better to get properly fit into the lowest sustainable position to maximize both efficiency and power. Andy Pruitt, one of the world’s foremost cycling fit experts, echoed this sentiment when I spoke with him last year. Pruitt is the founder of the CU Sports Medicine and Performance Center and has worked extensively with numerous pro riders and teams dialing in their bike fits.
“Rarely is the most aerodynamic position sustainable,” Pruitt says. “So a rider’s position will end up having to creep upward and get more comfortable to be more sustainable. Ultimately, if you’re more comfortable, you’re going to be able to go faster and harder for longer, rather than fighting to stay in some aerodynamic position.
“In some cases, bringing the handlebars up a bit actually can allow you to relax your elbows, which is not only more comfortable, but it can allow you to get more aero. A great example is this rider Lars Bak. In his case, raising the handlebars two centimeters actually lowered his back angle four centimeters because he could relax into the front end of the bike.”
Suzuki also says that riders don’t need to worry too much about wasting the benefits of an aero bike by riding in a more upright and comfortable position.
“It doesn’t completely negate the aerodynamics of the bike,” she says. “The leading edge of an aero bike still offers a lot of benefits, particularly if it has aero wheels too.”

Monday, June 8, 2020

How bike geometry works

Imagine every article of clothing you’re wearing. Your shirt fits according to one size measurement, pants are another, and then there are things like shoes, gloves, or even a hat. You have a lot of sizes to keep track of, and for good reason. Everybody has unique proportions, making it unlikely to simply say you are a “large” in everything.

Bikes are the same way. Yes, a bike could be called a “large,” but there are more nuances to the geometry than just size. To get the correct fit and desired handling, you should take the time to examine its geometry and understand how it all works together.

In this beginner’s guide, we’ll demystify some of the standard bike geometry measurements. We aren’t going to be able to tell you exactly which reach is right for you, or which chain stay length you’ll prefer. The first step is understanding what these geometry numbers are measuring and then comparing them to your own bike or one you used to ride.

“When people look at geometry, they tend to only understand a small portion of it, and they make decisions based on only that small portion,” says Lennard Zinn, a frame designer and builder and author of the best-selling book, “Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance.”

Above all, it is key to understand that all of a bike’s geometry numbers work together in harmony. One data point won’t answer all of your questions about a bike’s fit or handling.

Three key measurements

Some bike manufacturers overwhelm you with geometry charts that have 20 or more measurements for a given bike. Reach (G), stack (F), and head tube angle (D) are a few key numbers to focus on as you familiarize yourself with geometry as it relates to fit and handling.

Before diving in, it’s important to note the differences between road and mountain bikes. On a typical road ride, your position on the bike is very stationary. When riding a mountain bike on trails, your body position tends to be far more dynamic.

“Fit is less critical on a mountain bike than it is on a road bike or cyclocross bike because you don’t tend to be sitting there in that same position, grinding away. You're out of the saddle moving around,” Zinn adds. “On a road bike, you're grinding away the miles and everything has to be in the right position relative to your body parts. If not, over time you’ll either lose efficiency or you’ll hurt a lot.”

Reach
When you sit on a bike, reach is likely the first thing you notice. This measurement extends a vertical line straight up from the bottom bracket and measures from that point to the center of the head tube. As the name “reach” implies, it’s the distance from your body to the bars.

Reach is similar to top tube length (explained below), but it is a more relevant measurement for mountain bikes because you’ll often ride in a standing position, perhaps even with the seat lowered via dropper post, making the top tube measurement (from saddle to head tube) less applicable. Since road riders spend the majority of their time seated, top tube length is often more important, but reach should also be considered.

If your arms don’t have a comfortable bend while you’re in a normal riding position, the bike’s reach might be too long. If your bike feels cramped and small, reach might be too short.

Sometimes, small imperfections in reach can be remedied with longer or shorter stems, but only within a range of about 20mm in either direction. For example, if you’re setting up a mountain bike that would ordinarily have a 70mm stem, it would be inadvisable to install a 110mm stem to compensate for reach that is too short. However, it would be fine to go from a 90mm stem to a 100mm stem to fit a gravel bike.
Stack
Similar to reach, stack measures the relationship between the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube, except this time it pertains to the bike’s height. Stack measures the vertical distance from bottom bracket center to a virtual horizontal line from the top of the head tube.

Many experienced road riders tend to prefer bikes with short stack measurements to easily get their handlebars in a lower, more aggressive position for aerodynamics and cornering. Novice riders usually feel comfortable on bikes with more stack, thus a more upright position. Also, riders with shorter arms and torsos or limited spinal mobility may prefer more stack.

Similar to reach, a different stem angle can help a rider fit onto a bike that is a bit out of range when it comes to stack. For instance, a 10-degree stem could simply be flipped to become -10 degrees, lowering the bar position.
Head tube angle
While stack and reach are usually referenced when discussing how a bike should fit, head tube angle is a typical way to assess a bike’s handling characteristics. The angle is measured in degrees, with 90 degrees being vertical. As the head angle decreases it becomes "slacker." As it increases it becomes "steeper."

Bikes with slack head tube angles tend to be stable at high speeds but less responsive to steering input if you’re turning a sharp corner at slow speeds, such as an uphill switchback on a singletrack trail. Steep head tube angles are usually the opposite in terms of handling.

However, this is a very big oversimplification of bike handling and steering. Other variables, such as fork offset, stem length, and wheel size can affect how a bike corners — sometimes even more than head tube angle.

The average head tube angles for bikes we sold in 2019 are:

Mountain bike: 67.79 degrees
Road bike: 72.62 degrees
Gravel/CX bike: 71.57 degrees

Road, gravel, and cyclocross bikes vary the least in terms of head angles — they’re usually all within the range of 70-73 degrees. Mountain bikes have a more diverse range of angles, and they usually correspond with the bike’s suspension travel. A short-travel cross-country race bike might be between 67 and 69 degrees; a trail bike between 66 and 68, and an enduro bike between 65 and 67 degree head tube angle. As you can tell, the categories often overlap.

Other measurements to consider

Seat tube angle
Since we are on the topic of leg length, seat tube angle is also something that might come up as you examine bike geometries. This is an effective angle from the top of the saddle to bottom bracket center.

Riders with shorter legs generally need to sit further forward, relative to the bottom bracket. The traditional method is to position your knee over the pedal spindle when your crank is at 3 o’clock position. This position can be achieved with a steeper seat tube angle. It can also be addressed with saddle position or seatpost choice.

On mountain bikes, seat angles have become progressively steeper, regardless of size, to position the rider forward on the bike, improving weight distribution on steep climbs. Drop-handlebar bikes (road, gravel, ‘cross) haven’t changed nearly as much.

“Seat angle really should depend on your physiology,” Zinn adds. “If you know that you’re someone with long thighs and short lower legs, you’re looking for a bike with a shallow seat angle to get your seat back far enough and the opposite if you’re built like a swimmer.”
Effective top tube
As we’ve covered, top tube length is relevant for road, gravel, or cyclocross bikes, but it isn’t as crucial when looking at mountain bike geometry. If you spend a lot of time pedaling in the saddle, it’s important that your top tube is appropriate for your torso and arm length. It is typically measured on a horizontal axis from the center of the seatpost to the center of the fork's steerer tube. Like reach, you can compensate for a longer top tube with a shorter stem and vice-versa.
Seat tube length vs. standover height
The final measurement is quite simple: Seat tube length generally measures from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seatpost.

This is the old-school way to size a bike, especially for road bikes. A size 56cm frame would measure 56cm from bottom bracket to seatpost clamp, for instance. But nowadays, most road bikes have sloping top tubes, meaning that something like a 56cm Specialized Roubaix has seat tube measurement of just 48.5cm.

While seat tube length won’t tell us much about how a bike fits or handles, a related measure will: standover height. Remember when you were a kid and your mom or dad had you straddle a bike’s top tube to see if your feet touched the ground? Well, that is standover, a measurement from the ground to the top of the bike’s top tube. Too much standover height and you won’t be able to comfortably put a foot down. Is there such a thing as too little? Not necessarily, but it might be symptomatic of a frame that’s too small for you. Full-suspension mountain bike frame design has led to bikes with very low top tubes, thus low standover height.

Conclusion

The best thing you can do for starters is to Google your current bike’s geometry, and either save it or print it out to have as a reference when you’re shopping for a new bike. If you have particular complaints about your bike’s handling or fit, they might correlate to one of the basic geometry figures. The next step would be to try addressing them with a different bike.

Have you always hated how your mountain bike feels twitchy on descents, sometimes threatening to toss you over the bars in steep, rough terrain? Perhaps something with a slacker head tube angle and a longer reach would be an improvement.

Does it seem like you are always riding on the tops of your road bike’s handlebars to escape that uncomfortable stretch to hold the drops? A bike with taller stack might give you more options to position your hands while keeping you comfortable and in control.

5 Best Moab Intermediate Mountain Bike Trails



2) Navajo Rocks Chaco Loop

Navajo Rocks Chaco Loop has a 4.5 rating by 226 users.  This trail system is an easy 25-minute (20 mile) drive from Moab along highway 191 turning West on highway 313.  The Chaco loop is 17.4 miles of flowy singletrack with lots of short climbs and descents but nothing crazy.  It’s a great intermediate trail, and can be cut short with a few other connector trails.  There are some technical sections, which are easily walkable for beginners and great fun for intermediate riders.  The scenery can’t be beat – you will be surrounded by the famous Moab red rock for much of the ride.  Don’t forget to bring tons of water, you will need more than you think!

3) Jug Handle Loop

Jug Handle Loop has a 4.3 rating by 8 users.  It starts about 18 miles outside of downtown Moab on Long Canyon Road.  The loop is 37.5 miles with a huge climb offset by a long downhill.  The main draw of this trail is the incredible scenery – part of the ride is in Canyonlands National Park so make sure you follow their use regulations.  The ride consists of singletrack, dirt roads and a section of highway.  The main feature of this ride is the scenery, which includes awe-inspiring views of the Colorado river gooseneck at Thelma & Louise point.  The route follows Shafer trail within the Park, and climbs up a series of switchbacks to the mesa top.

4) Klondike Bluff Outer Loop

Klondike Bluff Outer loop has a 4.2 rating by 71 users. This trail system is 20 miles north of Moab, and includes 58 miles of trails.  The outer loop combines the best intermediate trails into 14.6 miles of mostly fast flowing singletrack.  Some small climbs along the way add up to about 1200 feet of climbing, and there are very few sections that solid intermediate riders will have any problems riding.  The main draw of this ride is the slickrock riding Moab is well-loved for.

5) Bar M Loops

Bar M loops has a 4.0 rating by 57 users.  The Bar M trail system is the closest one to Moab, at only 11 miles out of town.  Bar M loops features 10.8 miles of singletrack with very little climbing but lots of fantastic slickrock riding.  The slickrock can be bumpy, so be prepared – you can compare rental prices and rent a full suspension bike online easily with TripOutside.com.  The Bar M system has 40 miles of trails for all levels of riders, so you can easily add on more for a longer day in the saddle.
Whichever trail you choose, Moab trail systems will not disappoint.  Enjoy your ride!

Why You Need to Visit Salida Colorado Now

Salida, CO Adventure Itinerary

You may have never heard of Salida, Colorado, a quaint town in the Colorado Rockies surrounded by peaks over 14,000 feet.  With so many other famous Colorado destinations, Salida often gets overlooked.  But that only adds to it’s intrigue.  Salida is only a 3-hour drive from Denver, and this outdoor mecca plays host to mountain bikers, mountain climbers, rafters, rock climbers…and the list goes on.   Check out our 3-day itinerary to enjoy the best outdoors the town of Salida has to offer.

First Day

Monarch Crest

On your first day, rent a mountain bike to experience one of the many amazing trails in this land of high peaks.  You can take a shuttle up to the Continental Divide at Monarch Pass and ride the infamous Monarch Crest trail down.  This trail is an IMBA epic ride, and one of Colorado’s top 5 epic rides.  At 34 miles it’s a full day adventure for most.
Starting off on the trail, you will be above the treeline and the never-ending views are magnificent.  As you ride down, you will drop into aspen forests and more fun, flowing singletrack.  Overall the trail is mostly downhill, but don’t be fooled because even the few short climbs can wear you out at this elevation.  You will encounter everything from singletrack, doubletrack, smooth and flowing descents to rocky, loose trail.  The loop is actually three trails combined into one famed ride, so use the MTB Projects app to make sure you don’t get lost.

Cottonwood Tour

If Monarch Crest trail is still snow covered (typically before June), or if you don’t feel like dealing with a shuttle, ride right out of town to the 23-mile Cottonwood Tour.  This ride is rated blue/black (intermediate/advanced) on MTB Projects, which is mainly due to some technical rocky sections in Cottonwood Gulch that are a technical rider’s dream but can also be easily walked.
The tour starts with a 7-mile gradual gravel road climb (head out early because the road is full sun exposure) before you hit singletrack and climb a bit more.  At the top, the views of Salida are gorgeous, so stop and take it in before you hit one of the best descents in the region.  You will ride a few different trails throughout the Tour, but the signage is good and the MTB Projects app has detailed information on each.
Our favorite trail of all was the Rumba trail, which climbs to a ridge with great views, then drops down into an open valley.  Be prepared for 2.5 to 4.5 hours in the saddle for the whole Tour, depending on your pace.  You can also cut out the climbing and do this ride as a shuttle by driving up to the parking area at the Cottonwood trailhead.

After the ride, head into town to lounge on couches at Woods’ Distillery, sipping one of their many tasty craft cocktails.

Second Day

The renowned Arkansas River flows through these high peaks, carving steep canyons and delivering various levels of rapids throughout its length.  The Arkansas has it all – whether you want an enjoyable class I-II float, or an exciting III-IV whitewater adventure.
Rent an inflatable kayak or raft for the calmer sections of the river.  Our suggestion is to start at Stone Bridge access and paddle 12 miles of class I-II rapids into downtown Salida.  Or book a rafting adventure to experience the legendary class III-IV Brown’s Canyon rapids north of Salida, among other options.
After your river adventure, watch advanced paddlers taking turns on the whitewater course right downtown while you sip margaritas at Boathouse Cantina on the river.

Third Day

You can’t leave Salida without summiting one of the area’s 12 “fourteeners” or peaks over 14,000 feet.  We recommend that you save this for the last day so you can get acclimated to the elevation, and always start early to be back down before the storms that typically roll in around afternoon.  Hiking with kids?  See these tips for summit success with kids.
While none of the fourteeners can be described as anything close to easy, some of the more commonly hiked peaks include Mt. Yale, Mt. Huron, and Mt. Antero.  These peaks offer mind-blowing views, especially once you get above the treeline.  If this is your first fourteener, be prepared to walk slow, take breaks when needed, and bring lots of water and fuel.  When you reach the summit, relish the 360-degree panorama of snowy peaks as far as the eye can see!

Relax your sore muscles with a soak in one of the area’s hot springs after your action-packed adventure.  An obvious choice is the Cottonwood hot springs about 30 minutes away in Buena Vista.  These popular hot springs have one large pool and several smaller, more intimate tubs, as well as a cafĂ©.
A bit more rustic (but also less expensive) is Joyful Journey hot springs, about 40 minutes south of Salida.  Three varying temperature tubs have superb views of the Sangre De Cristo mountain range rising from their backyard.