Saturday, June 16, 2018


If you’ve just gotten into the world of mountain biking, you’re very likely impatient to start developing some of the MTB skills that make the pros the great riders they are. And while it takes anyone a great deal of time to become a great rider, the good news is that you, as a beginner, can start working on some of the skills the pros use daily. Here, we’ll look at some of the skills you can start working on today.

Skill 1: Balance on Uphills, Steep Downhills, and Challenging Trails

You might be surprised that “balance” is on a list of pro skills, because you’ve probably been able to balance on a bike since you took off your training wheels. However, you’ve probably seen pros navigate bumpy, challenging trails like they’re easy. While MTB pros make it look like second nature, maintaining your balance and the balance of the bike is a difficult art to master.
Cecilia Potts, a professional cyclist and former junior mountain biking world champion, explains that riding a mountain bike involves a constant effort to stay upright. She notes that, when riding uphill, you will need to move your body weight somewhat backwards on the bike. This is because too much weight on the front wheel makes it more likely you’ll come off the bike if you hit a bump. In going uphill, you need stop shift forward, or even stand up.
As a beginner, you may need to think about these shifts, but as you practice, you will get to the point where it becomes second nature and you won’t have to think about it anymore.

Skill 2: Stoppies

Stoppies, otherwise known as rolling endos, can make you stand out on a trail, and a well-executed stoppie can impress your friends. Practicing this skill can also help you to become more familiar with your bike. The goal with a stoppie is to pop up the back wheel while the front wheel is still rolling slowly.
To execute a stoppie, crouch down in the pedals and pop up quickly, pressing down on your front brake. Getting the timing and the degree of braking down can take some practice, so be patient with yourself. It’s a good idea to practice on a slight downhill on a trail with good traction.

Skill 3: Manuals

A manual is essentially the reverse of a stoppie: instead of rolling slowly on the front wheel, you want to balance on the back wheel. In order to practice getting the front wheel off the ground, it can be a good idea to first practice a front wheel lift. Practicing getting your front wheel up can help you ride over curbs and other objects.
As will all MTB skills, you probably want to challenge yourself once you’ve mastered one skill. Once you’ve got the front wheel lift, you can move on to a manual. To do this, you’ll need to sink down into the pedals and then pop up with your arms straight out. The goal is to continue rolling on the back wheel. The key is to balance your weight over the back wheel, although this can be very challenging to master.

Skill 4: Switchbacks

If you are planning on riding difficult trails, you’ll probably run into some switchbacks, which are very tight turns that may have you turning almost 180 degrees. Riding switchbacks takes practice, as each rider may find a slightly different flow through them.
One thing that is good to keep in mind on a switchback is keeping your weight low over the bike. Additionally, when going into the turn, it helps to swing your front wheel somewhat wide if possible. As you go around the turn, think about keeping your weight to the bike’s outside. This can help the bike to grip the trail on the turn. Once you become more experienced, you will be able to navigate switchbacks quickly, and even use skills like the stoppie to maneuver through especially tight turns.

Skill 5: Bunnyhop

Knowing how to bunnyhop can help you get over obstacles and to quickly reposition yourself on the trail. There are two types of bunnyhops: the English and the American.
In the English bunnyhop, you get both wheels off the ground simultaneously. To do so, you need to bend knees and elbows to get lower on the bike, then spring upward to get both wheels in the air.
In the American bunnyhop, the beginning is essentially a manual. Then, to get the back wheel off the ground, you think about “scooping” the rear wheel up by bending your knees and bringing the back of the bike up so you land back in the saddle.

Final thoughts

While some of these MTB skills take some work to master, each will help you navigate trails as you advance as a rider. Working on them as a beginner will help you get in enough practice that you’ll be bunnyhopping obstacles and speeding through switchbacks soon.


RaceFace Tailgate Pad

The 2016 Ford F150 is probably the worst truck to review this pad from Race Face on. Out of all of the trucks on the market, the 2015 – present F150’s has the BIGGEST bulge at the top of the tailgate out of any trucks currently on the market.
While this is a growing trend in truck design, the F150 is by far the worst in this aspect. I don’t know how much stuff they stuffed in there…but there is a functional/full pull out step with handle, rear view camera, back up camera for the trailer assist and who else knows what they shoved in there. At least my son really likes the step in to the tailgate and I can drop it with a push of a button on my key FOB.
Why does this matter? Because it greatly effects the fit of the pad. Ideally, any tailgate pad (regardless of manufacturer) really needs a flat tailgate, like the ones found on Tacoma’s, or at least a small bulge where the handle for the tailgate resides.

Thursday, June 7, 2018

With the addition of a bike chain breaker, the sturdy spindle-mounted toolset from All In Multitool just got a little sweeter. Now riders can hit the trail with even less gear in a pocket or pack.
Located only 30 minutes from the Slovenian/Italian border, the city of Udine is home to some rich culture and impressive architecture. The northern metropolis is also the home of All In Multitool inventor Giacomo Macoratti. Together with his business partner Alice, the pair design, test, create, market, ship, and sell their tools. All of this takes place after Giacomo’s full-time teaching gig, where he lectures on structural engineering.
The tool fits inside the crank spindle.
While playing with the All In Multitool V1 for the first time I was pleasantly reminded of my childhood desire to be an “inventor” when/if I grew up. The tractor-drive-shaft-like joint and solid mechanical feel of the tool inspire the confidence that it will do the trick on long rides, far from any workshop. The magnetized parts of the tool secure the smaller tool bits and act as a third hand to hold bolts and screws in place. When I heard Giacomo and Alice were making a new model I immediately emailed to ask if I could review it. Giacomo sent one my way the following day.

Technical features

The All In Multitool is held inside a steel BB spindle with seven high-resistance magnets, and those same magnets keep the following bits in place: T25 Torx, #1 Philips screw bit, 3-6 hex bits, space for 1 chain masterlink (link not included), and a bike chain breaker (V2 only).
All of the bits fit snugly into a magnetized, angular bit driver which provides enough leverage for nearly any screw or bolt on a mountain bike. It is possible to customize and replace any of the bits with those you prefer, and bits are generally available at local hardware stores. Unlike the color palette of the original tool, the new version will only be available in stealth black. The black anodization is said to better stand up to the rigor its use as a chain tool.

It’s as simple as that.
The new chain breaker feature is one that All In Multitool customers have been asking for, and Giacomo wanted to be sure when adding it that the tool would retain its very strong, long-lasting, and easy-to-use characteristics. By putting the chain breaker in the handle, the tool not only retains its former positive attributes but provides one of the lightest and simplest chain tools on the market. Simply remove the round handle from the body of the tool, insert the 4mm hex bit, and open the chain-pin by loosening the bolt on the outer face of the handle. From there, it works exactly as any other chain tool would.

Crankset compatibility

The All In Multitool will work in nearly any hollow steel crank spindle with an internal diameter greater than 21mm. This includes most Shimano MTB cranks, many SRAM cranks, and several others.

Ending The Debate: 29er vs 650B (27.5) vs 26″ Mountain Bike

With the widespread adoption of the 29er mountain bike in manufacturing and the mountain bike community, the growing debate of 29er vs. traditional 26″ mountain bikes is getting hot amongst riding groups. If you are in the market to upgrade your current mountain bike or get into the sport, your options are wider than ever which is a good thing for the sport but can be debilitating when looking to purchase a new rig.
Due to recent changes in the industry, the 650B mountain bike platform (also known as 27.5) has been growing in popularity. This article was originally written in 2011 and has now been updated to include the 650B wheel size. You can see the addition down below.
There is no “right answer” for every mountain biker, so let’s take a look at the 26″ vs. 650B vs. 29er mountain bike debate and see where it shakes out in my opinion. This topic is probably the most debated in the industry, so you will find that every rider has what they think is the right answer for you (typically what they bought).

The 29er Mountain Bike: What is the big deal?

Before we get into what will work best for you, let’s take a look at this larger wheel size and see how it affects the mountain bike in a general way.
What does a 29er do well?
  • Rolls over rocks and roots easier due to the wider circumference.
  • More distance covered per pedal revolution.
  • Higher air volume in tires smooth out ride.
The larger diameter wheels of the 29er mountain bike can create the sensation of having an 1″ more travel than the bike is spec’ed due to the larger air volume and larger contact patch with the ground. For this reason, it has become the go to size for much of the hard tail and shorter travel mountain bikes in the industry. The racing world has really embraced the larger wheels size for these benefits it brings to the trail.
What are the drawbacks of a 29er?
  • Large size equals larger weight.
  • Harder to maneuver in tight, twisty single track.
  • Longer travel (5.5″ and higher) 29ers feel REALLY big.
  • Sizing and geometry issues with smaller riders.
  • Larger radius needs stiff wheel build and fork to prevent deflection.
Just as with any big change, it is not all good news. While the true 29er zealots will probably tell you these things are not true, the reality is that you are adding bigger wheels to the mountain bike than traditional 26″, so there are going to be negative side affects that go along with the positive changes.

650B Mountain Bikes: What is different?

The 650B wheel size literally cuts the difference between the 29er and 26 wheel size in half at 27.5″. When you think about what the 650B platform in mountain biking does, it is actually pretty easy. It averages the strengths and weaknesses between the two sizes. You get some of the benefits of 29ers without the size and you get some of the nimbleness of 26 while increasing the ability to roll over objects.
What does a 650B (27.5) do well?
  • Rolls over rocks and roots easier due to the wider circumference over 26″.
  • More distance covered per pedal revolution.
  • Higher air volume in tires smooth out ride.
  • Brings a bigger wheel size to longer travel platforms.
  • At this time, 650B based frames, forks and tires are hard to come by (but that is changing quickly)
What are the drawbacks of a 650B?
  • Large size equals larger weight but lighter than an equivalent 29er.
  • Sizing and geometry issues if you are going to try to convert your 26 to 650B.
  • Larger radius needs stiff wheel build and fork to prevent deflection.

26″ vs. 650B vs. 29″ Wheels: Which is right for me?

When you are taking a look at the 26″ vs. 650B vs. 29er mountain bike, there are several personal questions you need to ask yourself as you make your decision. As with all things, there is no right answer that fits all people. How you ride your bike and how you want it to react is the most important factor when making this decision…not what your friend bought and says is the best.
So here is how I see it shake out…
How tall are you?
As the distance from your head to the ground increases, the 29er wheel size actually becomes more proportional to your size. Riders in the 6 foot and up crowd that are looking for a XC to light AM mountain bike should test ride a 29er just to see how they like it. You might find that it fits perfectly and you have finally found a bike that feels like it actually fits. Shorter riders in the 5’6″ range and lower will need to take a serious look at geometry and test ride different frames as they might find the bike feels too big or isn’t able to maneuver as well. I have known shorter riders that have loved the bigger wheel size, but that is typically in hard tail applications.
The 650B wheel size does an interesting thing in this situation. It can bring that proportion that the taller riders see down to mid level height riders in the mid 5 foot to 6 foot range. It can also bring a 29er like experience to shorter riders that are used to riding small bikes.
  • Taller Riders: Yes on 29er and 650B
  • Mid Height Riders: Yes on 29er, 650B and 26
  • Shorter Riders: Maybe/No on 29er; Yes on 650B and 26
How much travel are you looking for?
While the argument that a 29er “adds an inch” of travel is almost true in theory, there is a big difference in 140mm forks and 160mm forks in mountain biking. The thicker stanchions and construction make a huge difference for riders looking to get into the more technical side of riding. If you are in the market for a 140mm or 160mm travel mountain bike, a 120″ travel 29er is not going to give you that same stiffness and confidence from a bike build and component standpoint. Also, as you move up in travel the bike feels bigger and when you add in the larger wheel diameter, that gets multiplied and can hold you back in slow tech and DH situations.
However, if you are looking at lighter 130mm to 140mm travel 26″ mountain bikes and you are taller, the 120mm travel 29er might be a great option. It will roll over technical rocks and roots on most single track easier and you will still be able to keep the overall bike weight under 30 pounds in most cases.
The 650B platform is bringing thicker stanchion, longer travel forks to the bigger wheel market. It is almost as if 650B wheels were made specifically for “enduro” style riding.
In the short travel and hard tail mountain bike market, the 29er mountain bike has almost completely taken over. This recommendations are used in conjunction with the height recommendations above.
  • HT and 100mm travel and under: 29er or 650B
  • 120mm to 130mm: 29er or 650B
  • 140mm: 650B (27.5) or 26″
  • 150mm to 160mm: 650B (27.5) or 26″
  • 160mm+: 650B (27.5) or 26″
What type of trails do you ride?
As mentioned before, 29er mountain bikes do take more to maneuver through tight single track. If all of your riding is filled with tight turns in trees, you will want to try out a 29er on your own local trails before making a decision. On the other side of the spectrum, if your trails are more open and rocky, the 29er wheel size can really excel and bring more speed as you can hit sections faster.
Do a lot of racing and forest service road riding? A 29er is almost a no brainer in those situations. If you don’t believe me…just try to keep up with a 29er rider on a FSR. This adds up with the shorter travel and hard tail mountain bike market. Even 650B bikes will be no contest for a short travel 29er in these situations. If you are looking for a bike that will do a lot of things well and you ride a wide variety of trails (assuming you can only own one bike), the 650B platform might be a great “do it all” option.
  • Tight and twisty: 26″ and 650B
  • Open and rocky: 650B and 29er
  • Racing and FSR: 29er

What do I personally use? 29er or 26″ or 650B?

When I spec out my personal mountain bikes given trail conditions, this is how everything lays out for me personally given my specs. I would describe my riding style as technical/enduro. I like to find the nasty lines possible and make them ridable at speed. For this reason, I typically like to ride mountain bikes with big forks and more travel, but I also like to dip into the XC and race side every now and then as I have a background in those applications. At 6’1″ tall, I fall into the taller side of the sizing spectrum in between large and x-large. To fit my need to find all tech riding, I am on large size mountain bikes to keep the bike easier to move in slow tech.
  • Singlespeed and Hard Tails: 29er
  • Short Travel Race Bikes (100mm and under): 29er
  • Trail bike (140mm and 150mm): 650B
  • 160m+: 27.5″
As of right now, I have not found a 29er mountain bike that has been able to handle what I want to throw at a 140mm travel or higher mountain bike. It has not been agile enough and the 32mm stanchion forks mated with higher radius wheels are not built to withstand the abuse. Given the specs of 29ers, I do not see this changing for me as a rider.
On the shorter travel end, there are a lot of advantages of the larger wheel size that have made a couple of 29ers the fastest bikes I have ever ridden for those applications. I doubt if I will ever go back to 26″ wheels for anything under 140mm worth of travel. The 650B is almost completely tailored to the largest percentage of my riding and brings a larger wheel size without compromises to my ideal travel range at 140mm to 150mm. I get the benefits of a larger wheel without having to sacrifice geometry or stiffness of components. While 26″ would still be the choice for dedicated DH rigs, 650B is taking over trail bike duties while 29ers take up the XC side of things.

What is the right bike for you?

As you take a look at all of these specs, you have to look inward at your body type and riding style to see which wheel size will be the best option for you. There is no right option for everyone and the 29er wheel size is not going to take over the mountain biking industry like a lot of the Kool-Aid drinkers are trying to say. The larger wheel diameter does have some serious advantages in certain situations, but it also does not work for others.
The best option…test ride your top 26″ candidate on your local trail and the top 29er candidate if they are available. I would also swing a leg over a 650B bike to see if that platform works for you…especially in one mountain bike quiver situations. Although, at this point in time, that demo might be hard to line up.
If they aren’t, find the closest substitute. At the end of the day, you are the one making the investment in your mountain bike and you will be the one riding it…not everyone else that is trying to inject their opinion in your buying decision. There are a lot of riders that are going to scream that one platform is better than the other. The reality is that all riders are different and that is why we have so many options. Take an honest look at how you use your bike and what body type you are. This is the only way you will get the right wheel size for you while trying to ignore the fanbois.

 Update – The Death of the 26″ Wheel

As of 2018, the 26″ wheel is seeing its way to the “remember when” category. 27.5″ wheels have essentially taken over that market to the point that you rarely even find a 26″ tire on a long travel bike. We’ll now just refer to the 26″ tire as the size dedicated to Walmart bikes. With 27.5, 27.5 plus and other new standards, the 26″ wheel is officially dead.

Hiking on Dangerous Trails

  When you hike out of the woods and there are no longer rooted trees and plants, it is because you are on ground that can not support life - either sand or rock. And, since sand is just rock that has been pulverized, its all rock and hiking on it safely requires special concerns to keep in mind.

Sand Hiking


  If you've ever walked on the beach, you've felt the sand give way with every step you take. When you walk on wet sand that is packed, the going is much easier than on dry, soft sand. When the sand is piled and you are hiking up or across it, every step sinks or slips back making the going slow and more dangerous. Risks of stumbling, twisting your ankle, or causing a sandslide increase as the slope gets steeper and you get more tired. So, go slow, carefully place each step, and look for more stable ground.

Scree Hiking


  Scree is bits of broken rock piled up at the base of a cliff. In the mountains, daily heating and freezing of moisture on the solid rock causes it to slowly break the rock apart and tumble down. A scree slope will pile up to its steepest possible angle. Depending on the size and shape of the rock chunks, that angle may be shallow or steep. Any additional rock that falls on the slope will roll down until it finds a resting place or hits the bottom. The same is true for your foot! When you step onto a slope of loose rock, just like sand, it will give way under the weight until the material under it settles with the new weight. This may be 1/32 of an inch or it may be a few inches. In some cases, you may be sliding down the slope along with a couple tons of rock, all looking for stable places to rest.
Established trails across scree tend to be packed indentations where many people have helped push the rock down a bit until there is a slightly wider path across the face of the slope. Scree trails can't have very steep inclines so they typically run straight across or a slight rise. It is very important to remain on the trail and watch your step. I'm not kidding when I say that you can find yourself 100 yards downhill with 1 to 5 pound rocks bouncing all around you from just one mis-step.
Screeing is a fun, very dangerous tactic of quickly descending a scree slope. If the scree is small enough and deep enough, you can kind of ski down it in your boots. You are actually creating a mini-rockslide and riding it down. Make sure there are no larger rocks to trip you up and no one below you. And, there's a good chance you will take a tumble, so doing it only on grape or orange sized scree rather than cantelope and watermelon sized scree is a good idea.

Talus Hiking


  Talus is really what scree is. People just tend to call smaller bits of rock Scree and bigger stuff Talus. Really big Talus is called Boulders. It's all the stuff that has broken off of mountains and piled up. Depending on the composition of the original rock, the pieces of talus will be tiny, huge, or somewhere in between. Don't tell anyone, but this is really my very favorite kind of hiking. It can be very dangerous and takes a lot of effort, but when things are just right, you feel just like a wild mountain goat scampering wherever you want to go. Boulder hopping is when you step or hop from one boulder to the next in a large field of talus. In good hiking boots with grippy rubber soles, on dry rocks this is fun. Instead of working your way between big rocks, you are stepping on the tops of them. Besides, I get scared when I'm standing between two big rocks - I feel like an ant between the finger and thumb of my son. :-()
After practice and you are sure of your strength, balance, and ability, you can practically dance down a boulder field. Know where you are landing and have the next couple of steps already planned ahead. I usually hop back and forth when descending a steeper field because the change in direction helps slow me down - its kind of like turning on skis to slow down.

Cautions on Rock of All Sizes


  • It's easy to miss a step. Twisted ankles, scraped shins, broken bones are all things to consider. If you are going to boulder hop, think ahead about how you will get out with a broken leg. If you don't think you can, then you should find a different trail or go slowly and carefully.
  • Don't even try rock hopping if it is raining, or your boots are wet, or its cold enough for ice. Any slippery surface will be disastrous.
  • It will take a long, long time to cover a mile. Reduce your distance expectations if part of your trail is on loose scree or talus.
  • Chances of slips and failing rock are greater on the descent than the ascent. You are hitting with much more force coming downhill.
  • Don't hike up a slope at a steep angle. Go across in a switchback style. This gives the rock a better chance to accept your extra weight and keeps the person behind you out of your 'rock schadow' - that danger area where you will kick loose rocks.
  • If you kick loose some rocks, yell "Rock!". If you hear someone above you yell "Rock!", crouch down and cover your head. It's not cool to yell "Rock!" as a joke - kind of like yelling "Fire!" in a theatre.
  • Stay completely focused on where you are putting your feet. Checking out the scenery should only be done when you stop to rest.
  • Use hiking poles for more support on loose rock. If yours have metal tips, they may be more dangerous if you are stepping from rock to rock.

Hiking Benefits

Sure you know that hiking is good exercise and its a great way to get in touch with nature, but there's just a ton of other benefits to hiking. When you go on a hiking tour, you help make the world a better place!
  • Weight Loss

     - Hiking is a super way to lose excess pounds. Obesity is now an epidemic in the United States according to the surgeon general - that's bad! 64% of adults are overweight and more than 30% are considered obese. Our sedentary lives, stuck in offices, in front of computers, surfing this miserable internet is killing us off. Move your body, burn off some calories, and lose weight.
  • Prevent Heart Disease

     - Over 2500 Americans die every day from cardiovascular diseases. While you've read this far, someone died and by the time you read this entire page 5 more will be dead. A regular walking routine greatly reduces your chances of heart problems. Study after study after study show that regular, light exercise increases your odds immensely.
  • Decrease Cholesterol

     - Hiking and walking increase the HDL good cholesterol which helps get rid of the bad cholesterol. This in turn reduces your chances of heart problems.
  • Lower Blood Pressure

     - Going on a short hike of 30 minutes every other day is all it takes. Lower blood pressure means better overall health.
  • Reduce Stress and Depression

     - Your body's natural drugs like endorphins and adrenaline are released when hiking and these chemicals have a natural positive effect on your stress levels.
  • Stronger Longer

     - As you age, you do not need to experience a decline in physical activity. By staying active, your muscles stay strong. As you get older, your body will weaken, but regular hiking helps minimize that.
  • Prevent Osteoporosis

     - Hiking helps increase bone density and strength, helping prevent the calcium loss and chance of broken bones from this disease.
  • Better Air

     - Hiking to church, the store, school, or a local restaurant reduces the pollution from your car which makes the air better for everyone.
  • Prevent Diabetes

     - Hiking can reduce the amount of insulin a Type I diabetic. A Type II diabetic can reverse the course of the diabetes with exercise, diet, and weight loss.
  • Improve Arthritis

     - A regular exercise program can benefit most people that have been diagnosed with and treated for arthritis. Walking may be the best exercise as it strengthens muscles and improves support.
  • Relief from Back Pain

     - Sitting at a computer or desk too long can cause back pain. People that walk commonly report significant decreases in back pain. Hiking puts much less stress on your body than running or aerobics and helps build core body strength.
  • All Body Exercise

     - Hiking is an aerobic exercise that improves overall physical fitness, using leg muscles, core body muscles, and lungs. You set the pace and length that is a comfortable challenge for your body.
  • Experience Nature

     - Hikers explore natural settings that can only be reached on foot, leaving the hectic urban life and pollution behind for awhile.
  • Self Confidence

     - As more advanced hikes are completed, a hiker understands that he is capable of even larger feats. Making your way through foul weather or rugged terrain builds your confidence in what you can do.
  • Basis of Much More

     - By mastering hiking skills, you expand your horizons to mountaineering, backpacking, rock climbing and other outdoor wilderness activities.
  • Year Round

     - You can continue to hike any time of the year. It is a great activity that can be done in all seasons so a single hiking tour can have many different looks as the seasons change.
  • Escape and Refreshment

     - the psychological effects of spending time in natural surroundings is positive and strong. Time spent on the trail will renew you for better performance in your job and life back in the real world.