Monday, July 20, 2020

How to Pick the Right Bike Trailer

A bike trailer proves to be a valuable choice and just like everything else, one remains spoilt for choices when shopping for the right one. Nevertheless, you must make some choices and get the best bike trailer for your needs. It will all depend on how you are going to use it and how often.

Carrying heavy items

If you think you would need to carry some heavy and bulky cargo, then there are plenty of bike trailer designs that will cater to your needs. Or, if you think you need something special, you can have a custom bike trailer made for you.

Two wheel or single wheel bike trailer

First, you’ll have to decide if you need a single wheel bike trailer or two wheel cargo carrier.
Single wheel bike trailers follow directly in-line with your bicycle and are as wide as your bike’s handle bars.
Two-wheel bike trailers are more stable in balance but are wide and bulky for city streets or bike paths. Whether you are looking for stability for heavy and large cargo, or maneuverability, its up to you.
The carrying capacity of single or two wheel bike trailers are both restricted, so do your research before you settle on one style/design.

Child carrier bike trailer

If you will be carrying children in the bike trailer, then you will need a robust trailer with wide spaced wheels and a seat belt for the child. The bike trailer should have a rain-proof cover and the child must also wear a safety helmet. It should also be padded to offer a comfortable seating.

Thursday, July 9, 2020

Flat Bike Tire Quick Fix Tips

A flat bike tire is the most common mechanical problem for cyclists. While the idea of changing a flat sounds daunting, it’s actually an easy fix. To avoid getting stranded (or surfing through half the contacts on your mobile phone), grab your wheel, a set of tire levers and an air pump and practice changing your bike’s tube.

Step 1: Remove the bike wheel

Begin by either unhooking or flipping the lever on the cable that clasps your brakes together. This ensures there’s space for the wheel to pass through the brakes. Then either unscrew the bolt or flip the lever on the wheel’s quick release and loosen it. If you need to replace the front tire, remove it. If the puncture’s on the rear tire, shift the chain to the smallest rear cog and then pull the derailleur back, sliding the wheel out from the chain.

Step 2: Locate the offender

It could be a tiny piece of glass or a sharp cinder that caused the flat. Hitting a pothole can also compress the tire, pinching a hole in the bike tube. Hitting a larger object like a rock will leave a gash in the sidewall of the tire, which is usually easy to spot. Start by checking the valve stem for damage and if it looks okay, fix your peepers on the rest of the tire, slowly scanning it for damage. If you locate something that doesn’t belong, carefully remove it.

Step 3: Remove the flat bike tire

Let the rest of the air out of the bike tire and then grab your tire levers and slide the edge of the lever under the tire’s stiff bead on the side opposite to the valve stem. Push the bead toward the center of the tire as you slide the lever underneath and move around the tire. If you can’t unseat the bead with just one lever, hook the first lever on a spoke and slide a second lever under the bead. Then carefully work your way around the tire. Once the tire is unseated on one side, carefully pull the valve stem out of the wheel. Inspect the tube and tire for damage and remove any sharp items. It’s crucial that you remove the sharp object from the tire or you’ll have another flat in your future.

Step 4: Replace the flat bike tube

While you can patch a tube, it’s still safer to replace it. Take the new tube, open the valve stem and blow enough air to just barely inflate it so it begins to take shape. Next insert the valve stem into the hole in the rim and slip the tube into the tire. When one side/bead of the tire is in the rim, repeat this step on the other side, using your thumbs to push the tire onto the rim, working from the valve stem out. Just be careful not to pinch the tube in the rim.

Step 5: Inflate the new bike tire

Before you begin adding air, take one last look to ensure that the tube isn’t sticking out of the tire. Then inflate the tire using either a CO2 cartridge or pump and reinstall the wheel. Don’t forget to replace your CO2 cartridge and tube so you’re prepared for the next time.

Quick tips to avoid a flat bike tire:

  • Inspect your bike tires regularly for excessive wear, flat spots or any sharp objects
  • If you accidentally ride through glass, reach down with the palm of your glove and lightly scrape the bike tire as it spins (careful with the rear tire) or stop riding and spin the tire
  • Check your tire pressure every couple of rides and inflate it to the proper PSI. Under and over-inflated tires are both susceptible to pinch flats
  • Avoid riding through debris
  • Frequent flats? Talk to your local bike shop about using a more durable bike tube or tire
  • Ride with the right bike tools with you

Best Commuter Bike, a Cyclocross?

Can a cyclocross bike become the best commuter bike for your daily bike route? If you’ve ever caught a glimpse of cyclists pedalling through mud and quickly mounting and dismounting their bikes to hop obstacles, then you’ve witnessed a cyclocross race. The fall and early winter sport is quickly gaining in popularity, as are the cyclocross-specific bikes used by racers. A bike that rips through and sheds mud, gains speed from skinny tires and can handle whatever Mother Nature throws its way? Sounds like the best commuter bike.

The quick and dirty

At first glance, a cyclocross (or cross bike) closely resembles its cousin, the road bike. But there are some major differences. The frame has a higher bottom bracket than a road bike, perfect for navigating obstacles and has a slightly different geometry, as it’s made to be ridden in a more uptight position. Another major difference is the brakes. While road bikes rely on calipers, cross bikes have cantilever or disc brakes, which offer more stopping power in the elements. Cyclocross bikes also tend to use slightly wider, knobby tires to provide traction through mud, sand, water and snow.

Convert it into the best commuter bike

 It doesn’t take much to transform a cross bike into the best commuter bike. Look for a bike frame that’s aluminum or steel. Cross bike frames are strong and durable, yet lighter than most touring bike frames. Find a bike frame that comes with plenty of braze-ons and be sure to add fenders to help keep your bike commute dry. Install racks or panniers for hauling extra gear. Most cross bikes should have space for these add-ons. Since you’re not racing the bike, weight is not a major concern and you should also find a saddle that’s comfortable for longer rides. Lastly, unless you’re planning to ride gravel bike paths or rough dirt roads, consider swapping out the knobby tires in favor of slicks. These bike tires will increase your cruising speed and ensure a smoother ride. Find a bike tire that’s durable and fairly flat resistant.

Other cross bike considerations

If you’re buying a new bike you may have the option of disc brakes, a fairly new addition to cross bikes. Most cantilever brakes are fine for bike commuters, but if you often commute by bike in wet, slushy weather you may want to consider investing in disc brakes, which offer more reliable and effective stopping power. Before you buy a cross bike also consider if the geometry will be comfortable for you. The more road bike-like position will stretch out your back, shoulders, neck and arms more than a touring bike, commuter bike or mountain bike, which put riders in a more upright position. If you have any neck, back or shoulder problems you may want a bike that’s less aggressive. To learn more about Cyclocross, check out Cyclocross Magazine.

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Bike Fitting For Better Performance

Bike fitting for better performance? When it comes to bicycles, one size doesn’t fit all. In fact, one size fits some and then each bike must be further tweaked to fit the individual. Even the lightest, fastest bicycle is useless if it doesn’t fit the intended rider. So many people ignore their bike fit until they experience discomfort, pain or injury. A reputable bike shop should provide basic bike fitting services with the purchase of a new bike. Not sure how your set-up fares? Try these tips for a basic set-up.

Saddle height

If you have an indoor trainer, mount the bike and begin pedalling. Or position yourself in a doorway and backpedal. After a few spins, enlist a friend to look at the angle of your legs. They should bend 80 to 90% or if you’re able to measure the angle, you should have 25 to 35 degrees of knee flexion, as measured at the actual knee, not the angle between the thigh and calf muscles. A higher saddle height is more aggressive and produces more power, but also places greater strain on the knee. If the back of your knees hurt, try lowering the saddle by a few millimetres. A lower saddle height, on the other hand, is better for spinning, but places greater stress on the knees. If you have pain in the front of the patella, try raising your bicycle seat.


Saddle position

Saddles or a bike seat can move in many directions, up, down, back and forward. Begin by using a level to ensure your saddle is parallel to the ground. Now set up the fore and aft positions. Have a friend use a plumb line (a nut tied to a piece of string works well) and stop your foot in the 3 o’clock position. Your friend should place the end of the string directly on the side of your knee and let the plumb line hang down to your foot. When properly set up, the plumb line should intersect with the ball of your foot.

Handlebars

To avoid neck, shoulder and hand pain, check the reach to the handlebars. A comfortable reach should keep hands wide enough so that the chest cavity is open and arms are straight with a slight bend in the elbow. You shouldn’t feel uncomfortably stretched out. If you are, swap to a shorter stem or one that is more upright. If you’re unsure of your position, take a video or photo of yourself riding to check that your upper body is relaxed.

Other bike fitting considerations


When you purchase a new bike, be sure to check the stand over height. You should have at least an inch between your body and the top tube.
Invest in the frame first and components second. Components can always be swapped out down the line, but you’re stuck with the bike’s frame size. Do your research first and be sure it’s the right one.
These guidelines aren’t hard and fast, as some people find that a tilted saddle or wide handlebars provide the perfect fit. Bicycle fit is dynamic, so periodically check your set-up for changes. If you’re having trouble with clipless pedals, experiencing pain or discomfort, it’s always best to seek out a professional for a proper bike fitting.

How to give your bike a check-up

You're ready to ride, but is your bike? Whether it's due to a long winter, bad weather, injury, or a global pandemic, sometimes our bicycles get neglected, sitting in the garage unused for months. Before you roll out to enjoy the warm summer months, here is a simple overview of how to check over your bike's basic component systems. This concept applies to mountain bikes, road bikes, gravel bikes ... anything with pedals and wheels!

Key bike systems to check

1. Shifting: Does your bike shift smoothly through the gears? Is there any hesitation in the derailleur? Does the shift lever feel sticky? Are the cassette teeth, derailleur pulleys, chain, or chainrings worn?
2. Brakes: Do the levers pull smoothly? Do the brakes drag? Are the brake pads worn? Is the brake lever feel soft or spongy (hydraulic disc brakes only)?
3. Wheels and tires: Are there any significant wobbles in your wheel when it spins? Is the tire tread worn out? Are there any cuts on the tire casing? Do the rims have any dents or damage? Are the hubs spinning smoothly and free of play?
4. Frame: Are there any dents or damage? Is the headset smooth and adjusted? Is the bottom bracket smooth and adjusted?
5. Suspension (mountain bike): Is the fork compressing and rebounding in a controlled manner? Is the rear suspension compressing and rebounding in a controlled manner? Are there any oil leaks? Is the dropper post compressing and extending easily? Does the dropper post have any sag?
6. Touchpoints: Are the grips/bar tape worn out? Is the saddle torn? Are pedals spinning smoothly and free of damage?
Remember this check-up is just a starting point to assess your bike's condition. If you find your bike needs maintenance, you might need help from your local bike shop before it's ready to ride.

Benefits of a Bike Trailer

 



For many cyclists, the idea of towing a bike trailer seems alien to the ‘free and easy’ experience of cycling – however there are many reasons for wanting to take a bike trailer when touring with your bike. Unlike using a set of full panniers, you will not find your balance affected as much by a bicycle trailer with a low center of gravity. Whereas, full bike panniers may cause a slight imbalance at the rear of the bicycle, a trailer will not – as it is a grounded weight that follows the track of the rear wheel of the bicycle. Primarily this is a safety concern but it also enables the cyclist to feel more confident when traveling, safe in the knowledge that their packed items are behind them and they still have a bicycle free from additional items.

Another safety benefit is that a bike trailer will not impede movement around the pedals and chain of the bicycle. Although a well-designed pannier will also avoid this pitfall, there is still a risk of the pannier coming into contact with the mechanisms of the bicycle and the legs of the cyclist. A bike trailer, on the other hand, is always kept well away from these areas and will not impede any moving mechanisms or the legs of the cyclist.


For convenience, a bicycle towing a trailer is also free to use a kickstand when stationary. Although this may not seem like a big deal, consider that there may be plenty of times where you are not able to perch your bicycle against a mile marker or wall – requiring a kickstand to rest the bicycle. Those fitted with panniers are unable to do so whereas trailer-laden bicycles can.  Single-wheel bike trailers are more difficult to park using a bicycle kickstand.  If you’re shopping for a bike trailer, consider the Maya Cycle bike trailer with a kickstand that holds your bicycle and trailer upright, CLICK HERE to learn more about Maya Cycle bike trailers.

One clear benefit to a trailer is the sheer amount of space within them, and therefore the amount of items that can be carried whilst touring. With a larger single space, bulky or heavy items can be carried easily. Unlike a pannier, which usually has several smaller compartments which prevent larger single items from being transported, a trailer allows the cyclist to carry items of a much larger mass and may therefore be much more useful for trips which require longer tours.

Thursday, June 11, 2020

Do you need an aero road bike?

If you get more aero, then you’ve effectively become faster. You’ve probably heard before that wind resistance is the main force riders have to fight against. This means that improving your aerodynamic efficiency gives you an unquestionable speed advantage.
Watch a modern professional bike race and you’ll likely see a number of riders on the sleek and slippery aero road bikes with advanced stealth-fighter-shaped frames.
Engineering modern aero bikes is an intensive, technical, and expensive process. Beyond ads and marketing, the world of aerodynamics is mysterious for everyday cyclists. Beyond feel and perception, it’s hard to know for sure how much difference an aero bike will make in everyday riding.
So if you’re looking at spending a few thousand dollars on your next bike, how do you know if an aero bike is worth considering? Can you be frugal and make yourself more aero on your current bike? Here’s what you need to know.

You don’t need to be fast to experience aero benefits

World Tour pros aren’t the only riders who benefit from improved aerodynamics. Your average rider can still gain valuable speed and time. I spoke to aero expert Mio Suzuki, Senior R&D Engineer leading aerodynamics at Specialized, who talked to me about the testing she’s done with riders of different levels. The magic number is surprisingly low — only 13mph.
“One of the findings we’ve made is that from 13mph and up, aerodynamics will come into play pretty significantly and have a very positive effect,” Suzuki says. “That sort of speed is pretty average for a rider who’s not competitive. Obviously, for professionals averaging 20-to-30mph, aerodynamics are important. But when measuring the time difference when moving from point A to point B, you still see noticeable aero time gains at much lower speeds.”
Suzuki explained that when looking at graphs tracking power and speed, it’s hard to tell if weight or stiffness makes any difference. But it’s easier to see when an aero bike is used because there is a quantifiable speed differential. Other than fitness, aerodynamics is the most important single factor that influences your speed on a road bike.
“We track data and make calculations for every category of rider to try and understand the effect of aerodynamics in a lot of different riding scenarios,” Suzuki says. “We have pretty detailed graphs and analyses of a lot of different situations. For your average everyday rider, like me, who’s often riding at 15mph, there's no question it will definitely make you faster.”

Aero bikes don’t compromise ride quality

In the past, reviewers liked to criticize aero bikes for having poor ride quality (either too noodly or too stiff) due to the shape of the frame tubes. But bike makers have put a lot of time, effort, and money into aero bike design and manufacturing to make them feel and ride like non-aero bikes.
Philippe Gilbert had no problem riding his aero Venge on the cobbles.
“A lot of manufacturers, including Specialized, are getting smarter about how to construct aero bikes,” Suzuki explains. “It’s definitely a design goal to make an aero bike that still rides like a traditional round-tubed bike.”
Carbon technology has progressed to the point that manufacturers can produce bikes of nearly any shape that exhibit the classic traits of lateral stiffness and vertical compliance. By controlling the carbon lay-up, the possibilities for precisely controlling ride quality are near limitless. When buying aero bikes made in the last five-to-ten years, riders should have few if any concerns about ride quality.
Even with aluminum bikes, clever hydroforming and welding now allow manufacturers to add stiffness to key points like the bottom bracket and compliance to areas like the seat stays.
“Compared to 10 years ago, aero bikes have evolved quite a bit. They don’t necessarily have the exact same ride feel,” Suzuki says. “But our engineering and manufacturing techniques make it so that aero bikes that too stiff or too noodly, as you say, aren’t really an issue anymore.”

Aero bikes can still climb

Weight is a big deal for riders interested in climbing, and aero bikes generally weigh more than their non-aero counterparts. But the difference may not be as big as you think.
When it comes to weight, advances in manufacturing have brought aero bikes very close to “traditional” road bikes. For example, let’s compare two Specialized road bikes — a 2020 S-Works Venge (left) and a 2020 S-Works Tarmac (right) — that are the same size, with similar builds, and equipped with the same wheels and tires.
The Venge weighs 15 lbs 15 oz while the Tarmac weighs 14 lbs 12 oz. Okay, one bike is a pound lighter. That might seem like a lot, but for most riders, the overall aero benefits will outweigh the climbing benefits.
Consider that the rider makes up the far larger percentage of the overall weight of the rider and bike combo. A single pound really only matters to riders who exist at the extremes of weight or performance. (To learn more about the effects of bike weight, check out our Does Bike Weight Matter article.)
Also, aerodynamics still come into play on climbs. Suzuki points out that the 13mph speed where aerodynamics make a positive difference is mainly quoted for flat terrain, but it’s applicable to climbing as well. The wind resistance at 13mph is the same going uphill or down. Less wind resistance will increase your speed uphill. Only on very steep gradients are you moving slow enough for weight to be a bigger factor.
Some tech articles found online will try to list specific gradients where aerodynamics are no longer a factor (e.g., at 8%+ weight will matter more for average riders). This may have some basis in fact, but Suzuki is hesitant to make specific claims like this.
“Rider weight, gradient, and a bunch of other variables all factor into climbing speed,” Suzuki says. “Because of that, there’s no way to say, universally, that there’s a single point where bike weight gains will be greater than aero gains.”
What advice can you take from this? Well, since aero bikes aren’t significantly heavier than comparable non-aero bikes, then weight should only be a major concern if your primary focus is climbing on very slow and steep climbs. For all the other times when the gradient eases and speeds rise, aero bikes will net greater speed advantages. Both Suzuki and I would likely choose an aero bike over a non-aero bike for our everyday riding.
Note that the importance of aerodynamics is transcending specialists bikes like the Venge and many “traditional” road bikes like the Tarmac are also starting to apply wind tunnel testing and aero shapes to make them better all-rounders. Though the current Tarmac isn’t as aerodynamic as the current Venge, Specialized’s most aerodynamic road bike offering, it’s nearly as aerodynamic as the first-generation Venge that helped ignite the aero bike boom in 2011.

Aluminum bikes can be aero too

Aero bikes aren’t always synonymous with high-end carbon dream machines. The Specialized Allez Sprint is one of the most popular road bikes for competitive road racers because it combines a robust and budget-friendly aluminum frame with aerodynamic efficiency that surpasses the first generation Venge.
The belief that carbon bikes are more aero than aluminum bikes comes from the reputation carbon has for being easy to manipulate. It can be manufactured into any shape an engineer can dream up, opening up more aero possibilities. But the Allez Sprint has shown that more traditional bike materials can still be competitive.
“In general I’d say it’s easier to make an aero carbon bike because of the shaping. But that doesn’t make it more aero,” Suzuki says. “Aluminum manufacturing technology has evolved a lot. If an aluminum frame can be made with an aero cross-section at the key points then I would say an aluminum bike could be just as aero or more. It all comes down to design. The Allez Sprint shows that.”
Other manufacturers are following suit. The main competitor for the Allez Sprint, Cannondale’s CAAD-series, has just come out with the aero aluminum CAAD13. As we said before, aero is transcending categories in the bike industry and it’s becoming clear that many future budget aero options will be available to satisfy more riders.

Aerodynamics are still a bit of a black box

The regular consumer can’t test bike aerodynamics because we don’t have access to wind tunnels or the necessary instruments. It’s not a simple as putting a bike on the scale. So are we reliant on manufacturer’s claims and magazine tests?
“I’ve done a lot of aerodynamic tests,” Suzuki says. “Knowing all the care we place into what we measure and how we measure things, I would like to say that the numbers and performance I can put out are trustworthy. As an engineer, I want true information.
“How is everybody else doing it? I can’t say for sure. I like to think everybody else is honest. Specialized is lucky because we own our facility. That means we can do as much wind tunnel testing as we want. If you don’t own a wind tunnel, then you have to go somewhere else and rent time. You pay per hour for usage of the tunnel so you have to carefully prioritize what to test and how to stay in budget. That might restrict the number of bikes or configurations they’re able to test.
“This is why you don’t see people and journalists just gather up 100 bikes to go compare in a tunnel. I’ve seen magazine tests and their results and they try to do their due diligence to compare bikes in a fair way. I’ve seen good tests and I’ve also seen questionable results. The questionable part being the protocols they follow.”
Unfortunately, we don’t live in a world where we have an easy way to test and compare bikes for ourselves. Most cycling publications provide nothing more than riding impressions for aero bikes. You could do some form of home testing with a flat road and a timer, but Suzuki warns that the results will be very subpar. It’s unlikely that you’ll extract meaningful data for the minute differences between two frames. The wind tunnel is the only precise and reliable tool.
If this concerns you, then consider that reputable aero manufacturers, such as Specialized, Trek, and Cervelo, sponsor pro riders and invest significant time in the wind tunnel. It’s in their best interest to actually make competitive bikes. If you want something effective, then looking at brands that actively discuss and showcase their wind tunnel testing may be prudent.

You can improve aerodynamics on your current bike

If you don’t want to purchase a new aero road bike, but you want the improve the aerodynamics of your current set-up, there are three key components to consider upgrading — your wheels, handlebars, and helmet.

“Definitely wheels,” Suzuki says. She emphasizes their importance. “Aero wheels are a great, great, great investment. They are what contact the air first and everything comes behind them. With wheels too, I would highly recommend doing research because just because something is deep doesn’t mean it’s the best wheel.”
Just like with aero frames, some brands put more effort into wind tunnel testing than others. Zipp and ENVE are great examples of high-quality wheel manufacturers that prove their wheels out in the wind tunnel. There are even budget options with extensive engineering and testing behind them.
Because handlebars are at the leading edge of the bike, aero handlebars can also make a significant improvement in your efficiency. Cervelo has done wind tunnel testing that has shown that handlebars contribute up to 30% of a bike’s overall drag at zero degrees of yaw.
Aero helmets began gaining popularity around the same time as dedicated aero bikes. In 2011, the same year the Venge was released, Mark Cavendish won the 2011 World Championship road race wearing an adapted Specialized aero road helmet with its vents covered. Aero helmets have since been adopted by the peloton and regular riders. Many aero helmets sacrifice very little in terms of ventilation for their aero performance so they are a convenient way to get an extra edge.

Good bike fit makes you more aerodynamic

If you're on the fence about aero bikes, then consider getting a bike fit instead. When discussing wheels, Suzuki was quick to bring up riding position and bike fit. According to her, they are as important to your performance as aerodynamics.
“If I were to put it all in order,” she says, “I think wheels and bike fit would be my two top things. Bike fit is really an underrated secret. In terms of aerodynamics, the rider position affects efficiency quite a bit. We do a lot of testing, particularly with professional athletes, in the wind tunnel. We’ll have their hands on the hoods as a baseline posture. Then we have them hold the drops so their back angle decreases into a bit more aggressive position. We have seen as much as a 10-20 watt difference between hands on the hoods versus in the drops. That’s super-significant."
Getting as low as possible on your bike has a very positive effect on your aerodynamic efficiency. The less your body is exposed to the wind, the less wind resistance you have to fight against. Suzuki warns, however, that this isn’t a prescription to slam your cockpit as low as possible.
“You might be able to get into a perfect, aggressive position, where your back angle is low and you’re out of the wind,” she says. “But what if you can only hold it for five seconds. If it’s not sustainable for two hours, or whatever the entire duration of your ride is, then it’s meaningless."

Instead, it’s better to get properly fit into the lowest sustainable position to maximize both efficiency and power. Andy Pruitt, one of the world’s foremost cycling fit experts, echoed this sentiment when I spoke with him last year. Pruitt is the founder of the CU Sports Medicine and Performance Center and has worked extensively with numerous pro riders and teams dialing in their bike fits.
“Rarely is the most aerodynamic position sustainable,” Pruitt says. “So a rider’s position will end up having to creep upward and get more comfortable to be more sustainable. Ultimately, if you’re more comfortable, you’re going to be able to go faster and harder for longer, rather than fighting to stay in some aerodynamic position.
“In some cases, bringing the handlebars up a bit actually can allow you to relax your elbows, which is not only more comfortable, but it can allow you to get more aero. A great example is this rider Lars Bak. In his case, raising the handlebars two centimeters actually lowered his back angle four centimeters because he could relax into the front end of the bike.”
Suzuki also says that riders don’t need to worry too much about wasting the benefits of an aero bike by riding in a more upright and comfortable position.
“It doesn’t completely negate the aerodynamics of the bike,” she says. “The leading edge of an aero bike still offers a lot of benefits, particularly if it has aero wheels too.”