Hiking Boots
All About Boots
There's a lot involved in figuring out what boot to get and knowing if
you made a good choice. We'll start off listing the parts of boots,
then various types of boots available, then discuss how to choose one,
and finally a few pointers on using and caring for your boots.
Anatomy of a Hiking Boot
Most all footwear has similar components put together to offer
protection, support, and style. Some won't have all of these, but these
are the main parts to keep in mind when looking at boots:
- Sole - the bottom of the boot, responsible for gripping the
ground, absorbing shock, and protecting from sharp objects. Soles
should have deep patterns made of tough rubber so rubber highpoints will
grip on hard, slippery surfaces while the entire sole will sink into
softer surfaces, increasing the grip there. Soles need to be flexible
to allow a natural gait, but also stiff enough to support the foot.
- Upper - everything above the sole. It's job is to snugly
hold the sole to the foot and to protect the foot from scratches,
twists, and pounding. It should repel water and allow perspiration to
breathe out. The upper should be firmly and permanently attached to the
sole - this is called the welt.
- Inner - Padding and linings are placed inside boots to
increase comfort and help with moisture protection. Gore-Tex is a
common water liner. Padding also provides insulation and reduces some
pressure points. Padding in the toe or heel of your boot is a bad idea
because it will quickly compress and change the fit of the boot.
- Insole - your foot stands on the insole and it should fit to
your foot exactly for proper support. Foam insoles will quickly
compress and lose support. Insoles with good arch support are
important.
- Tongue - the cover for the opening where you insert your foot. A tongue allows you to adjust the snug fit of the boot.
- Scree Collar - around your ankle, there needs to be padding
that keeps loose dirt, sand, pebbles out of your boot. This should fit
snugly and can be helped along by wearing a pair of gaiters.
-
Lacing
- laces are used to tighten the fit of the boot. There are many types of eyelets in use:
- Punched eyelets - usually reinforced with metal grommets, these are holes punched in the upper material. Tend to rip out.
- Webbing - loops of fabric, tend to wear out.
- D-rings - metal loops riveted to upper material. Very durable, but tend to cause pressure points.
- Hooks - open-backed riveted to the upper material. Often used for the top 3 or 4 eyelets.
Types of Boots
There is a wide range of footwear for hiking, ranging from going
barefoot to mountaineering boots. The type of boot you require all
depends on the type of hiking you are going to do, how much support you
want, and how much you can pay - paying more does not necessarily mean
getting a better boot. You may be better off with a less expensive,
lighter boot for your hiking style.
As examples of the general types of footwear, I've just used Merrell. I
own a pair of $100 Merrell backpacking boots that fit me extremely well
and have given great support for two summers. But, you can find
similar styles of boot in higher and lower qualities from the various
manufacturers - Asolo, Montrail, Salomon, Timberland, Vasque.
Hiking Sandal - You can safely hike in sandals with sturdy tread
and strong straps. A toe guard is a good safety feature to minimize toe
stubbing - ouch! Sandals are very light so your legs work less to lift
and step, but they have virtually no support for your ankle or foot.
They are dry and comfortable for hiking on groomed trails with a light
day pack, but not practical for any off-trail hiking or extended treks.
It is a good idea to have a pair along on treks to use as a camp shoe
and for water crossings.
Find a sandal with molded arch supports, sewn rather than glued straps,
comfortable footpad, and tough sole. The pictured style costs around
$30, but I got mine on sale for $14.
Hiking Shoe - Shoes provide comfort and easy hiking by using
light materials such as nylon and suede enforced with some leather.
They are very flexible and require minimum break-in time. You could
probably buy a pair and start hiking in them the next day, after just
wearing them around for a day. This shoe costs around $50, but there is
a huge range in price and quality available. Unfortunately, this style
has become popular for normal wear so there are many shoes that appear
to be hiking shoes but have no support - check the specs.
Real hiking shoes have good support for your arches and feet. They
should also be designed to keep dirt and pebbles from getting in around
the ankle and will preferably have some waterproofing. Their lower
ankle cut lessens the support of ankles and provides no protection
around the ankle area from brush and other scratches. I prefer to have a
more sturdy feeling around my ankles when hiking, but these are fine
for groomed trails.
The sport of Trail Running is pretty popular and there are specific
shoes for trail running that tend to be quite a bit more expensive.
They include extra padding, a bit more support, and tougher soles. They
cost more, but can be used for normal hiking too.
Mid-weight Boot - This is the boot that most hikers and
backpackers will use. They are appropriate for on-trail and off-trail
terrain that is not extremely rugged. Typically, mid-weight boots are
made of leather or synthetic material with leather enforcement sections
like the one pictured. You should expect to spend a week of walking to
break in your boots; some require less time, depending on their
stiffness. If you are not used to above ankle boots, you'll need to
spend extra time getting comfortable to the feel.
No matter what trails you plan to hike, a mid-weight boot will be a good
choice. If you decide to go on extended treks, their extra foot
stiffness and ankle support will help out. They also work fine on
shorter hikes and give you the option to tackle more difficult routes if
you want. The boot pictures costs around $80, but my pair of Merrells
cost $140 and I got on sale for $95.
Mid-weight hiking boots should be waterproof, probably with a lining of
Gore-Tex. If you get an all-leather pair, you may treat it with
waterproofing spray or paste. The extra boot weight means you will be
working harder with these boots, but the extra safety and support are
your rewards.
Heavy Boot - If your lofty plans include boulder hopping and
off-trail blazing, then a heavier boot may be in order. These boots
bridge the gap between trail hiking and mountaineering and some have
features of mountaineering boots, such as crampon lips. Heavy hiking
boots offer maximum support against twists and foot injuries, plus being
water resistant and breathable through the use of Gore-Tex liners. For
general hiking, they are overkill, but for treks over rough trails with
lots of elevation change, they may be a good choice. This sample pair
runs about $150.
The construction of heavy off-trail boots makes them more sturdy, but
also more expensive and not so comfortable. You will need to spend a
good amount of time breaking in your new boots and getting your feet
used to hiking/climbing in them. They weigh more so you will be working
harder for each step you take.
Mountaineering Boot - Don't even think about getting a pair of
these for hiking. :-) Mountaineering boots are intended for climbing
mountains and are closer to ski boots than hiking boots. They offer
extreme support for feet and ankles with attachment points for crampons
for hiking on ice. Usually made with a hard outer shell, inflexible
sole, and extra insulation, these boots would kill you on a day-hike.
Using these boots, each step is deliberate and calculated - you climb up
the mountain, you climb down the mountain. The boot here costs around
$275.
Choosing a Boot
When it comes down to choosing a boot, the general considerations you need to make include:
- Boot Weight - the lighter boot, the less work for your legs. Get as light as you can and still keep the support you need.
- Water - You want materials that will let perspiration escape but
not let water come in. Water in your boot is uncomfortable and causes
smelly feet and blisters.
- Arch Support - keeping your foot comfortable and supported under
load is important. If the boot lets your foot flatten out, it will
result in a painful hike.
- Protection from Injury - stubbing your toe and twisting your ankle
are the two big ones. Ankle support is more important the rougher the
terrain becomes.
- Load Support - when you carry a load, the boot should protect your
foot from bending too far forward or backward while still allowing an
adequate range of motion.
From my descriptions of the different hiking boot styles, you probably
already know that I would always recommend a mid-weight boot. It is
flexible and can be used for easy day hikes and extended backpacking
treks. I also recommend taking along a pair of sandals on any multi-day
hikes so you can air out your boots and let your feet relax when not
actually hiking. This is important for drying out your boots for the
next long hike.
For basic day hikes, a hiking shoe would also be a good choice. If you
are starting out, a shoe might be a bit more comfortable and you could
wear it for every day walking. As long as you are staying on groomed
trails that are not too rough, a shoe would be a good bet. But, for
myself, I appreciate the ankle support and coverage offered by
mid-weight boots so I have the option of stepping up my trail selection
if I want.
- Type of Hiking - consider the terrain you will be walking on,
the weather you will encounter, the length of your hikes, and the
weight of your pack. A sturdier boot with more support is required for
rougher, longer treks with a heavier load. A lighter shoe for groomed
trails in arid country would be fine.
- Skill Level - more support is a good idea for a new hiker.
Someone in good hiking shape with legs, ankles, and feet accustomed to
the muscle use and pounding may use a lighter boot where a new hiker
should have a sturdier boot until he improves his abilities and
strength. Think ahead to where you plan to take your skill level. If
you are starting on easy, flat trails but plan to work up to more
difficult terrain later in the summer or next year, then plan ahead and
get appropriate footwear now.
- Boot Fit - This is the hard part about getting any footwear,
as I'm sure you know. Your foot and boot will mold to each other over
time, so some tips to getting that fit correct might help:
- Ignore shoe sizes. If you wear a 9, you may go to 10 or 8 in a
hiking boot. Concentrate on the fit of the boot, not the supposed size
of it.
- Wear your exact hiking socks when trying on boots. Use a sock liner if that is what you plan on hiking in.
- Boots should feel snug all over, but not tight. There should be no points of pressure.
- Shop for boots in the afternoon or evening. Walk around the mall
in your shoes for 10 minutes before trying on the boots. Your feet
change in shape through the day and this will help prevent buying boots
that seemed to fit.
- Unfasten the laces and put your foot in the boot. While standing,
push your foot forward until your toes reach the toe of the boot. There
should be just enough room for you to slip your index finger between
your heel and the back of the boot. Check both feet.
- Move you foot back to the rear of the boot and lace the boots up snugly. Walk around a bit to see how the boots feel.
- Your toes should not touch the front of the boot. If you kick your
toe into the floor, the front of your ankle and top of your foot should
take the force - your toes should not hit the toe of the boot. If your
toes hit, that means you will be constantly pounding your toes when
hiking downhill and it will become painful.
- Your heel should not slip in the boot. Hold the heel of the boot
down with the toe of your other boot and try to lift your heel. If it
moves up and down more than a quarter inch or so, then when you hike you
run the risk of rubbing a nice big blister on that heel. You may try a
smaller size or look for a different style with a different heel cup
and arch form.
- Boot Quality - I'm not really much of a brand-name kind of
guy. I also have this suspicion that the sales guy is going to push me
to the most expensive boot instead of the best boot for my needs. I've
had Nikes that disintegrated and I've had Wal-Mart items that never wear
out. But, in general, you pay more for higher quality, I'll go along
with that. In the world of hiking boots, there are some major players
and they have tough customers. Turn out a poor product and folks will
try a different brand the next time around since there are so many to
choose from.
When checking out boots, take some time to examine the boots closely.
Some may look really cool, but fall apart after 100 miles of hiking.
Some of the particulars to check include:
- Stitching - look for missed stitches, loose threads, neatness.
- Welt - where the upper and sole are connected. should be tight and no spots that look weak or loose.
- Thin Spots - even leather thickness, no abrasions, no cuts or uneven edges.
- Tread - thick, tough, and solid. not spongy and soft to wear out in a few weeks.
- Lacing - braided nylon rather than flat shoe laces. Check eyelets for strength and durability.
- Smell - seriously! I smelled a pair and it was like dead fish. It should have a clean, new leather smell.
Caring For Your Boots
Depending on the materials used in the construction of your boot, you
will need to use different products to care for them. Make sure you ask
the salesperson or manufacturer for proper care procedures.
- Break in your new boots. Lighter boots need little break-in, but
make sure you wear them around the neighborhood at least a few times,
until your feet feel comfortable in them.
- Store your boots in a cool, dry place. Put crumpled up newspaper
in them to absorb moisture. Take them out and wear them every month or
so just to keep them soft and in the correct shape.
- Make sure you have new, strong laces in your boots before starting a
hike. Nothing like having a broken lace out there. Just tie a knot
and carry on if it does happen.
- Never dry your boots by a fire or other source of high heat. High
heat may destroy glue, ruins leather, and makes you spend more on
another pair. Dry them gradually in warm, dry air.
- After a trip, clean and thoroughly dry your boots. Treat them with
the recommended conditioner, usually oil or wax for leather and
silicon-based for synthetic materials.
- Before a trip, coat them again with conditioner and coat the seams to improve water resistance.
Most national parks and wilderness areas require a backcountry permit.
Often times these permits are free but if you are checked and have no
permit, the fines can be very expensive. Permits are used to monitor
visitor traffic, to limit use of certain spots, or to help keep hikers
safe. From very restrictive permits that define your trails and
campsites to general access permits, it depends on the management goals
of the agency in charge.
Other areas may not require a permit, but its always a good idea to
check in with a ranger. It's an opportunity to tell one more person
where you plan on hiking and to check one last time on trail conditions
and any special short-term regulations in the area.