Arapahoe Basin, Summit County • 910 skiable acres on 2270′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 13,050′; Base elevation: 10,780′. 7
Lifts: 1 quad, 2 triples, 3 doubles, 1 magic carpet. Uphill capacity:
10,600/hr. Terrain Mix: 15-45-20-20. Longest Run: 7920′. Season: usually
October to July. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 367″.
Snowmaking: 25%.
The SKInny: A-basin (in the vernacular) is
relativelysmall
in skiable acreage, as Colorado skiing goes. At least as far as the
“official” skiable acreage is concerned. Add in the off-piste, the
unofficial, the out-of-bounds and the outrageous, and it’s nearly as big
as any. While A-basin may not be the biggest, plenty of skiers consider
it the best. It has the highest lift-served terrain in North America,
and arguably some of the most stunning views as well. Big on skiing, but
not big on amenities, which is fine with most. Because of the “bowl”
shape of the entire mountain, A-basin trails all sort of funnel into a
much tighter base area than most of the big Colorado ski areas…often
feels as if you are skiing “into” something, rather than being “out” on a
mountain. That may not make a lot of sense; but we’re trying to say
that a lot of the runs have an approach that feels different from the
typical Colorado run. The upper mountain, served by the Lenawee lift, is
the ultimate open bowl cruise, with terrain for everyone from
accomplished novice to full-tilt advanced. The section served by the
Palavacini lift is a different story; two routes are offered for very
good intermediates, and the rest is just plain nuts. Why anyone would
think to make ski trails on Pally face is incomprehensible. Another
section, The East Wall, is hike-to terrain that is not as steep as
Pally, but between the precipitous traverse required and the rocks
you’ll encounter, is equally daunting. These days a lift services the
“back side” of A-Basin, a quad officially open for about ten years gives
easy access to the “Montezuma Bowl.” This Montezuma Bowl is good news
for mere mortals, but bad news for the back country rippers who
previously had it all to themselves…prior to the chair, you had to hike
out. Anyway, it’s now open, and 17% of it is groomed. And like the front
side, whatever they leave ungroomed is either advanced, expert, or
psychotic. Skier’s right in Montezuma opens up some fabulous wide open
bowls, very steep but much easier than Pally on the front side. Skier’s
left in Monte requires a traverse that sends many people into rocks and
trees. It looks deceptively easy; it can be very very nasty. The runs
down are easier than the actual traverse.
The fact that half the mountain is unskiable for most of us mere
mortals is what gives the impression that A-Basin is small. Don’t be
turned off; there’s plenty — plenty — to do here for solid
intermediates. Experts will like the fact that it’s cheap, deep, and
steep. And don’t be surprised if you meet people at completely opposite
ends of the skill spectrum who declare that A-Basin is the best ski area
in the world.
Update: A-Basin has opened new terrain west of Pallavacini called The
Beavers, including a new chairlift. The Beavers adds some new
intermediate terrain, as well as some incredibly steep and narrow
chutes. All of this was previously hike-in/hike-out terrain for a
select group of highly skilled locals — now open to all. One word of
warning: The danger signs on the Beavers are to be taken seriously.
Signature Trail: Pallavicini & related runs. If you can
handle this stuff, we salute you. For the rest of us, Lenawee Face to
Dercum’s Gulch is arguably the all-time greatest above-timberline
cruise.
Bumper Sticker: Spacin’ at the Basin
Here’s a look at the Lenawee/Cornice/Dercum’s area, arguably one of
the best lift served, above-timberline intermediate areas in the USA:
Aspen/Aspen Mountain (Ajax), Aspen • 673 skiable acres on 3267′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,212′; Base elevation: 7945′. 8
Lifts: 1 gondola, 3 quads, 4 doubles. Uphill capacity: 10,755/hr.
Terrain Mix: 0-48-26-26. Trail mileage: 64. Longest Run: 15,700′.
Season: usually late November to early April. Rentals & Lessons.
Annual Snowfall: 300″. Snowmaking: 30%.
The SKInny: The grandaddy of Colorado ski resorts, rising above
the town of Aspen on Ajax Mt. Not recommended for pure beginners. But
for even casual intermediates to world-class experts, however, Aspen is
one of those “must-ski” experiences. Perhaps it’s the moguls, the Silver
Queen gondola, the powder, the legendary groomers…or just the fact that
it is, well,
Aspen. Pricey and high-toned, you will not be king
of the mountain here. You’re sure to see someone prettier than you are,
and plenty who ski better than you do. Expect your ego and your wallet
to suffer. The skiing is fantastic; an odd thing about Aspen is that the
most notable, legendary trail is probably one of the least inspiring —
Ruthie’s Run. Tell a casual skier you went to Aspen and they’ll ask if
you skied Ruthie’s. At one time it was universally listed as one of the
top ten all around trails in the country, but nobody knows why. A lot of
that sort of thing goes on at Aspen.
Signature Trail: Ruthie’s Run (yeah, we know)
Aspen/Buttermilk, Aspen • 429 skiable acres on 2030′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 9900′; Base elevation: 7870′. 7 Lifts: 1
quad, 5 doubles, 1 handle tow. Uphill capacity: 7500/hr. Terrain Mix:
35-39-26-0. Trail mileage: 21. Longest Run: 15,700′. Season: usually
mid-December to early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall:
200″. Snowmaking: 25%.
The SKInny: This is the Aspen that most skiers
should
head for…easier runs, cruising terrain. Started as a “beginner’s hill”
in the late 1950s to compensate for a complete lack of novice terrain at
Ajax. Today, Buttermilk is arguably the best beginner/developing
intermediate mountains in the country. Lately, however, it has become a
haven for snowboarders, so it’s lost some of its luster as far as we’re
concerned. The advanced intermediate can head to the Tiehack area to mix
it up a bit. Lifts (other than the quad) are clunky slow; a couple of
detachable sixpacks would help Buttermilk a lot. But hey, we’re picking
the fly poop out of the pepper here…put this mountain almost anywhere
else in the country and you’ve got one dynamite ski area. Even the
hotshot can enjoy the scenery and groomed terrain at Buttermilk.
Signature Trail: Tiehack Trail
Aspen/Highlands, Aspen • 790 skiable acres on 3635′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,675′; Base elevation: 8040′. 4
Lifts: 3 quads, 1 triple. Uphill capacity: 5,400/hr. Terrain Mix:
18-30-16-36. Trail mileage: 65. Longest Run: 18,500′. Season: usually
mid December to early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall:
300″. Snowmaking: 14%.
The SKInny: Highlands is the latecomer to the Aspen Skiing
Company fold. Known for years as “that place the locals go with the slow
lifts.” Purchased by SkiCo (Aspen Ski Company) in 1993 after a storied
past, new lifts went up, as did prices. As SkiCo is the first to admit,
Highlands’ reputation for having the steepest and the nastiest
overshadows the fact that it actually has more novice and intermediate
trails than double blacks. But it is the bowls that have brought fame to
this hill; Olympic and Highlands in particular. Intermediates can work
the Cloud Nine chair all day long, and stay well out of the way of the
experts working the bowls. Both will agree that Highlands is the best
skiing they’ve ever experienced. Even the developing skiers can get in
on some of the “bowl” action, working Thunderbowl on the lower mountain.
Signature Trail: Moment of Truth
Aspen/Snowmass, Aspen • 3,010 skiable acres on 4406′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,510′; Base elevation: 8104′. 21
Lifts: 7 quads, 2 triples, 6 doubles, 4 pomas, 2 magic carpets. Uphill
capacity: 27,978/hr. Terrain Mix: 7-55-18-20. Trail mileage: 65. Longest
Run: 26,700′. Season: usually mid December to early April. Rentals
& Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 300″. Snowmaking: 6%.
The SKInny: It isn’t the biggest or baddest on the planet, but
it’s certainly neck-and-neck with Vail for “Best in Colorado” and
possibly the USA. Snowmass has more skiable acreage than most mountains
have vertical…and it’s something for everyone. With 5 mile, hour long
descents, some skiers do as few as two or three runs — and call it a
day. Interestingly enough, Aspen Skiing Company added a poma lift at the
summit in the 1990s to serve The Cirque, a bowl previously served by
snowcats and hiking (this is the lift that made it king of U.S. ski
areas). The primary chair right out of the base village can get crowded;
move up and work the new campground chair for the shortest liftlines.
Pricey and trendy, this is the big time.
Signature Trail: The Cirque, Big Burn, Campground.
Beaver Creek, Avon • 1625 skiable acres on 4040′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,440′; Base elevation: 7400′. 14
Lifts: 6 quads, 3 triples, 4 doubles, 1 surface. Uphill capacity:
24,739/hr. Terrain Mix: 34-39-27. Longest Run: 14,520′. Season: usually
late November to early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall:
310″. Snowmaking: 37%.
The SKInny: Excellent resort for families with buckets of money.
If you enjoy a ski/winter shopping mall/resort/development with lots of
shoppes, people movers, elevators, escalators, clock towers and resorty
shnizzle-shnazzle, you will love Beaver Creek. And you will pay for it.
The skiing doesn’t command the same respect as an Aspen or Arapahoe,
but it is extremely nice. Resort connects (circuitously) to Vail, which
owns and operates Beaver Creek, in what they call a “European”
village-to-village style connection. It isn’t quite, but still
represents one of the true adventures for the full-fledged wanderer.
(Even without it, Wanderers can spend a month here and not be bored.)
Hotshots will yawn a bit at Beaver Creek — compared to what they can
find elsewhere in the Rockies — but will have plenty to do just the
same. Some of the chairs get long lines, and some trails get crowded,
but nothing compared to Vail. Move past the village and you’ve got a
big, beautiful, world-class ski area. Bring money.
Signature Trail: Birds of Prey.
Breckenridge, Summit County • 2208 skiable acres on 3398′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,998′; Base elevation: 9600′. 27
Lifts: 2 sixpacks, 6 quads, 1 triple, 6 doubles, 7 magic carpets, 5
surface. Uphill capacity: 36,680/hr. Terrain Mix: 13-32-55. Longest Run:
18,480′. Season: usually mid November to late April. Rentals &
Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 300″. Snowmaking: 23%.
The SKInny: Depending on who you ask, Breck is either the most
overrated or most underrated ski area in Colorado. As one of the
flagship resorts in Summit County, Breck attracts a lot of people. A
lot. And although the uplift is massive and the vertical is technically
long, Breckenridge
seems to get a lot more crowded than the
specifications would indicate. This is probably a result of the layout,
which is more horizontal than vertical, and requires a lot of chair use
and traverses to move about. Thus the majority of skiers are found on
“Peak 9,” which is the main base and can be quite crowded. Overall,
Breck targets the developing novice through plateaued-out intermediate
skier…easterners can identify Breckenridge with Okemo…but there is
plenty of challenge for the hotshot. Really, there’s no shortage of
anything for anyone…this is a damn big resort…find an uncrowded lift,
work it till the crowds arrive, then move on. You want glades, steeps,
bowls, powder, groomed cruisers, terrain parks — soup to nuts — Breck
has it all. Quite crowded during holidays and early in the season. Ski
off peak weekends in January and February, and move into the outlying
areas…use the Peak 7 chair, the t-bar or Peak 10 chair for best skiing
and to avoid the crush, and you will agree that Breck is worth every
penny of the ticket price. For trivia buffs, Breck is the only U.S.
resort we know of with
two lifts that make left-handed turns mid-ride: The Peak 8 Superconnect, and the T-Bar.
Signature Trails: Psychopath, Pika, Ptarmigan and White Crown.
Ski Cooper, Leadville • 400 skiable acres on 1200′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,700′; Base elevation: 10,500′. 5
Lifts: 1 triple, 1 doubles, 2 surface, snowcat. Uphill capacity:
3300/hr. Terrain Mix: 30-40-30. Longest Run: 7400′. Season: usually
Christmas week to early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall:
250″.
The SKInny: Some people call this their favorite ski area on the
planet. It’s certainly one of mine. The Coop is a bit hickish for most
vacationers…no cutesy clocktower village or fireworks shows. It’s also a
mid-sized area — small by Colorado standards — so the crowds pooh-pooh
it. That leaves Cooper to the locals, a few Texans, and a handful of
Easterners who get lost and stumble upon it. The terrain at Cooper isn’t
tough, the lifts aren’t fast, but the conditions and uncrowded slopes
are fabulous. Excellent for occasional skiers who like to swoop and
glide, camp in no-frills motels and throw down a few drafts at a
fraction of the cost of Aspen/Vail/Summit etc. The trails are
meticulously groomed and largely gentle; a few are left ungroomed but
are not overly steep. No snowmaking here, so the snow underfoot is
usually incredible. On some days you could easily ski the Coop and leave
your metal edges at home. Think about that. Snowcat skiing is a special
treat, and opens up some wild bowl skiing for the well-heeled skier.
Most of us can’t afford the snowcat, but with so many options in-bounds,
we really don’t need it. 4-5 minute lift lines sometimes form on
weekends, only because the equipment is a bit dated. If you’re into
skiing, being real, and don’t need a mint on your pillow, think Cooper.
Probably the least touristy ski destination in the state. Hotshots will
find a few challenges, but no audience to stroke the ego. Wanderers will
be positively thrilled; despite Cooper’s (relatively) modest size there
are plenty of hidden glades, countless crossovers, and endless meadows.
Families or any skiers seeking a quiet, unstressed experience will find
Cooper hard to beat. This is one of those places where, when they close
the lifts down at 4:00 pm, you wonder where the time went. If I don’t
make it back to Breckenridge…eh. If I don’t make it back to Cooper…now
THAT would suck.
Signature Trail: Molly Malone, Trail’s End.
Copper Mountain, Summit County • 2433 skiable acres on 2601′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,313′; Base elevation: 9712′. 22
Lifts: 1 sixpack, 4 quads, 5 triples, 5 doubles, 3 magic carpets, 4
surface. Uphill capacity: 30,630/hr. Terrain Mix: 21-25-36-18. Longest
Run: 14,784′. Season: usually early November to mid April. Rentals &
Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 280″. Snowmaking: 16%.
The SKInny: Copper is part of the Intrawest skiing conglomerate,
known for Whistler, Stratton, Solitude, and others. Intrawest takes a
lot of knocks from the ski community, but you have to step back a moment
and look at the big picture…Intrawest replaces clunky, junky lifts with
safe, high capacity detachables. Once Intrawest takes over, lines
become shorter, rides up the mountain take less time, and grooming
(where appropriate) is improved immensely. Trails at Intrawest resorts
tend to be
open, which is a novel concept at some ski areas. Now,
with all this good, you’ve got to take some bad. Intrawest raises
prices, and builds cookie-cutter Potemkin Villages at the base
areas…call them Intrawestvilles…and they take some grief for lacking
architectural ambiance and design character. Remember that Intrawest is a
Canadian company, and Canada is not widely known for its cutting edge
design community, eh? They don’t care if the architecture works, they
only care if you reach for your wallet as you meander through the
village. Anyway, the key to skiing at Intrawest resorts is to buy a
multi-use card or voucher…three visits for $295, that sort of thing. For
locals unable to swing a season’s pass, these are great deals. For the
rest of the world, you’re traveling a bunch of miles and laying out some
serious dough to get there…why quibble about a price hike? Anyway, as
far as the skiing is concerned, Intrawest is known for taming some
trails, cutting down a few potentially hazardous trees, erecting fences
where they aren’t necessarily needed, etc., so some Copper fans may
notice a favorite tree or two missing on a few classic trails. Copper
has always been about two things: Great terrain for intermediates, great
bowls for the experts, even a nice open bowl for the novice (Rendezvous
chair), and great snow for everybody. These things haven’t changed;
Copper is still one of the finest ski areas in the country, only now the
infrastructure is better than ever. Two separate back bowl areas offer
some of the most enjoyable skiing and scenery you could hope for. It is
also well known for separating various levels of skiers…novice,
intermediate, and expert terrain all have their distinct areas, so
skiing styles don’t clash, and a lot of misunderstandings and problems
are avoided. Families, beginners, experts, hotshots, intermediates and
wanderers will all love this place. The only people who won’t are the
old-line Copper skiers, who need to realize that change is
inevitable…otherwise we’d still be grabbing ropes powered by 1936
Hudsons.
Signature Trails: Drainpipe, Fremont Glades
Cranor Hill, Gunnison • ±12 skiable acres on 329′ lift-served vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 8189′; Base elevation: 7860′. 1 poma
surface lift. Uphill capacity: 600/hr. Terrain Mix: Yes. Longest Run:
2000-2500′. Season: usually late December to March; open weekends and
holidays. Rentals; warming hut. Annual Snowfall: 46″. No snowmaking.
The SKInny: Here’s a little town tow that skis plenty big. When
conditions are on, it’s a wide-open bowl and an absolute hoot. When
conditions aren’t on, it’s still an absolute hoot. If you’re headed to
Crested Butte you owe it to yourself as a skier to get here, buy a
ticket, and make some turns with the kids. You’ll be keeping it real,
and you’ll be glad you did.
Click here for a little more information, photos and whatnot on the Colorado Ski History website.
Crested Butte, Crested Butte • 1058 skiable acres on 2775′ lift-served vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,162′; Base elevation: 9100′.
Vertical with short hike is 3,062. 14 Lifts: 3 quads, 3 triples, 3
doubles, 2 magic carpets, 3 surface. Uphill capacity: 17,640/hr. Terrain
Mix: 15-44-10-31. Longest Run: 13,750′. Season: usually mid-December to
early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 240″. Snowmaking:
30%.
The SKInny: If your idea of skiing is an
Aspen/Vail/Copper/Beaver Creek condo/village/golf/mall megaplex, you’d
be advised to stay away from Crested Butte. Gunnison ain’t Denver…heck,
it ain’t even Durango. And Crested Butte ain’t Aspen. This is skiing for
skiers…not golfers, poseurs, glitterati or schedule-heavy SUV families
that require toney condos and leave the slopes early to get a table at
Outback Steakhouse before heading to the multiplex cinema. If you’re
concerned that Crested Butte doesn’t offer a lot of alternative
entertainment, don’t go…you don’t ski hard enough. If you do it right,
you’re too tired to do anything afterward. It’s uncrowded. It’s big,
it’s steep, it’s skiing. But hey, the bulk of the mountain is
intermediate groomers; the back terrain “Extreme Limits” is the realm of
double-black, pedal-to-the-metal hotshots. Read again: This is Colorado
for real skiers who require minimal fluff and glitz, and don’t mind
leaving the bright lights and the big crowds.
Update: Crested Butte recently acquired by Vail Resorts Inc., which
will undoubtedly have some effect on the local scene. We’ll see. Vail
seldom buys namesake ski resorts without ruffling some feathers in the
namesake community. Refer to Park City Utah as an example.
Signature Trails: Rachel’s, Glades, Banana Chute
Durango Mountain Resort see Purgatory Resort, below.
Echo Mountain Resort, Idaho Springs • 80 skiable acres on 660′ vertical — Scheduled to Re-open 2017-18 season
Specs: Summit elevation: 10,500′; Base elevation: 10,500′.
Lifts: 1 triple, 2 surface. Terrain Mix: varies; emphasis on park
features. 15 stated trails. Longest Run: 3,000′. Season: usually early
December to late April or early May. Rentals & Lessons. Annual
Snowfall: 220″. Snowmaking. Closed Tuesdays; open for night skiing
Monday & Weds-Sat. Open til 5:00 pm Sundays.
The SKInny: Here’s a ski area that has been resurrected from the
dead — [EDIT: Operational status is unconfirmed; Website is again
active and Echo has been added to the GEMS Card this year]. It’s an
“upside down” hill (base lodge at the top) that has been re-introduced
as a park’n’pipe haven close to Denver. Originally it was heavily
targeted to boarding when it reopened a couple years ago; the emergence
of twin tips and stagnation of snowboarding has led it to become a
regular place that just has a lot of youth and park stuff. They also
have regular old trails for novices, as well as tree terrain for the
experts. It’s also just 40 miles from Denver, so how can it go wrong?
Unfortunately the road to reach it can be an adventure in inclement
weather, and it is so windy and circuitous that you can often reach
Loveland or Eldora in the same drive time. But we like Echo for it’s
smaller, funkier attitude; and it blows away the bigger areas in terms
of catering to youth. Good stuff here.
Signature Route: Westside Glades.
Eldora Mountain , Cuchara • 680 skiable acres on 1400′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 10,800′; Base elevation: 9300′. 12
Lifts: 2 quads, 2 triples, 4 doubles, 4 surface. Uphill capacity:
11,500/hr. Terrain Mix: 20-50-30. Longest Run: 10,560′. Season: usually
October/November to April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 300″.
Snowmaking: 85%.
The SKInny: “Eldo” is known for having a fantastic “back bowl,”
being close to Denver, and having deathly slow lifts. Liftlines are
short, terrain is good with something for all abilities. Yes, it is only
a “mid-sized” mountain, but it’s now operated by Powdr Corp and they’ve
upgraded the key lifts. Fact is now you’d be hard pressed to find a
better ski area so very close to so many people. “Small” as it is, even
the wanderer can go a long way before being bored at Eldora. Hotshots
can stick to the West Ridge area and have a full plate. It ain’t
Aspen…and sometimes that ain’t bad.
Signature Trails: West Ridge Trail, Moose Glades.
Granby Ranch (Silver Creek), Granby • 406 skiable acres on 1000′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 9200′; Base elevation: 8200′. 5 Lifts: 2
quads, 1 triple, 1 double, 1 surface. Uphill capacity: 5400/hr. Terrain
Mix: 30-50-20. Longest Run: 7920′. Season: usually mid December to
early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 220″. Snowmaking:
60%.
The SKInny: This is a familycondogolfski resort, ideal for
beginners, kids, families, novices, families with kids, golfers
attempting to ski, golfers with kids…you get the idea. One entire
mountain for novice types. Great for what it is; hotshots and seasoned
skiers ought to avoid Granby Ranch. Nice layout — East Mountain for
developing skiers, West Mountain for advanced skiers, but lots of slow
skiing zones and other claptrap will frustrate the true skier. Wanderers
will last a day, but that’s about it. Now, for the family, or young
couple where, let’s say she skis but he’s a beginner, Granby is simply
fantastic. Conditions are awesome, lines move right along…probably
Colorado’s best for young family ski groups.
Signature Trail: Widowmaker.
Ski Hesperus , Durango • 80 skiable acres on 700′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 8,800′; Base elevation: 8,100′. 2
Lifts: 1 double, 1 surface. Uphill capacity: 1,500/hr. Terrain Mix:
30-20-30-20. Longest Run: 5,500′. Season: usually late November to mid
April. Night skiing. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 150″.
Snowmaking: 85%.
The SKInny: This is “Durango’s Other Ski Area,” and it’s really a
locals’ domain. Small even by East-coast standards, it makes up for in
quality skiing what it lacks in size. Frequently outstanding conditions,
excellent, incredible views of the Four Corners region. No lift lines —
not many lifts, for that matter. True southwest skiing. Mountain is
well divied up for various skill levels. Popular for night skiing.
Signature Trail: East of East.
Howelsen Hill, Steamboat Springs • 150 skiable acres on 440′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 7136′; Base elevation: 6696′. 3 Lifts: 1
double, 1 poma, 1 pony tow. Uphill capacity: 2,000/hr. Terrain Mix:
20-30-50. Longest Run: 5,500′. Season: usually late November to March.
Night skiing. Annual Snowfall: 250″. Snowmaking: 30%.
The SKInny: The oldest continuously operating ski area in the
state, it is a throwback to a bygone era. Probably more famous for its
nordic jumping facility and nordie training than downhill skiing. A fun
alternative in Steamboat that deserves a visit.
Kendall Mountain Recreation Area, Silverton • 35 skiable acres on 500′ vertical
Specs: 1 double chairlift. 11:00 AM thru 4:00 PM Fri/Sat/Sun. Annual Snowfall: 200″+.
The SKInny: Town-operated ski area; new lift and new base lodge
make this one of the best Recreation Dept. ski areas in the country.
Cheap tickets, great scenery. If you consider Kendall Mountain for
beginners and low-end intermediates, and now nearby Silverton Mountain
for experts, the community of Silverton is quite possibly your last best
chance for a legitimate western mountain town ski experience without a
phony clocktower village. Rooms at the Triangle Motel start at $50.
Keystone, Summit County • 1861 skiable acres on 2900′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,200′; Base elevation: 9300′. 21
Lifts: 2 gondies, 1 sixpack, 6 quads, 1 triple, 4 doubles, 5 magic
carpets, 2 surface. Uphill capacity: 35,175/hr. Terrain Mix: 12-29-5-54.
Longest Run: 15,840′. Season: usually mid November to late April. Night
skiing. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 230″. Snowmaking: 49%.
The SKInny: Unique layout here, wanderers will love this
place…three mountains, one stacked right behind the other, getting
tougher as you progress, uh, backward. The skiers who will like Keystone
the most are 2nd and 3rd year intermediate types, and
pedal-to-the-metal experts…but we’re really being picky here…everybody
loves Keystone. Has some of the best, longest green & blue terrain
in Colorado. Keystone Mountain lifts (up front) tend to be the most
crowded, but if you work this place right it’s certainly big enough to
keep moving. Hotshots can work the bump runs — Ambush, Powder Cap,
Geronimo, etc. on North Peak (Outpost gondola) and stay busy for awhile.
Also, it’s one of the few major western resorts to offer night skiing.
What little we’ve seen of this, it is not at all crowded. One might
wonder, what with so much fabulous
day skiing, why anyone would bother with night skiing. This is a big resort, something for everyone in the Breck/Copper class.
Signature Trails: Black Forest area.
Loveland Ski Resort, Georgetown • 1365 skiable acres on 2410′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 13,010′; Base elevation: 10,600′. 11
Lifts: 3 quads, 2 triples, 4 doubles, 1 mitey-mite, 1 poma. Uphill
capacity: 14,293/hr. Terrain Mix: 17-42-41. Longest Run: 10,560′.
Season: usually late October to early May. Rentals & Lessons. Annual
Snowfall: 400″. Snowmaking: 12%.
The SKInny: Ask the regulars, the locals, the skiers, and
they’ll universally agree: Loveland is probably the best all-around ski
value in Colorado. If you’re the type who prefers resort complexes that
happen to offer skiing, avoid Loveland. If you’re a skier who enjoys
skiing, and you don’t require jacuzzis, touristy restaurants, microbrews
and trendy shoppes, Loveland should be your first choice. Actually two
ski areas in one; Loveland Valley is a small novice/intermediate area,
and Loveland Basin is the big boy, with bump runs, groomed cruisers,
glades, bowls, novice runs, cliff hucks, you name it. Clearly one of the
most underrated ski areas in the country. Watch the weather; Loveland
tends to have more hardpack/ice than other Summit County areas; it can
also be windblown. If you pick an extremely windy, icy day, you’ll find
chairs on wind hold, and arctic conditions everywhere else. But when the
sun is shining and all is good, Loveland is a fabulous ski area. Our
only gripe is that there is no place to leave your boot bag, unless you
want to rent a ridiculously-priced locker. It’s gotten to the point
where they sweep the lodge and pick up unattended bags. We hate that
stuff. This is a policy Loveland needs to change; they have enough
negatives to overcome in terms of wind and hardpack that they shouldn’t
be turning people off with an absurd no-bag policy. Back to the hill…A
quad chair (the #9 chair, highest chairlift on the planet) services the
previously hiker-only “Ridge,” and is legendary bowl country.
Intermediates are king at Loveland, but the hotshot will have plenty to
keep busy. As Loveland is in the top ten in size in Colorado, the
wanderer can spend a few days or a lifetime here before getting bored.
Tickets are reasonable, parking is free, condos are nonexistent. Go for
it.
Signature Trails: Avalanche Bowl, Patrol Bowl, Splashdown, Our Bowl.
Monarch Ski & Snowboard Area, Monarch • 670 skiable acres on 1170′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,961′; Base elevation: 10,790′. 5
Lifts: 1 quad, 4 doubles. Uphill capacity: 6100/hr. Terrain Mix:
21-37-42. Longest Run: 5288′. Season: usually late November to early
April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 350″.
The SKInny: Another of the “smaller is better” ski areas.
Regulars swear by Monarch; great scenery, laid back atmosphere, minimal
(read: none) resortish/golfish/condo nonsense. Not really the best
Colorado has for hotshots or wanderers, but the average skier, family,
etc. will love it here. Liftlines range from short to nonexistent. Also
interesting is the layout, which offers some bowl type stuff, some
traditional Rocky Mt runs, and some ridge/canyon routes that provide
some great diversity. Known for powder and affordable, no-frills
skiing…but the fact that the word “snowboard” has been added to the name
is troubling.
Signature Trail: Slo-Motion.
Powderhorn Resort, Mesa • 510 skiable acres on 1650′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 9850′; Base elevation: 8200′. 4 Lifts: 1
quad, 2 doubles, 1 surface. Uphill capacity: 4370/hr. Terrain Mix:
20-50-15-15. Longest Run: 11,600′. Season: usually early December to
early April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 250″. Snowmaking:
15%.
The SKInny: Don’t be put off by “resort” in the name. This is a
small, personable ski with great terrain and generally good conditions.
The sort of place where everybody seems to know everybody else, you
don’t have to wait on liftlines, and the lifties chat things up if you
get them started. Closest town is Grand Junction, beyond that is nothing
but desert, so don’t expect Powderhorn to be Vail or ever become Vail.
Not really a destination type place, just a good, all-around ski area.
Lifts crawl a bit, but be warned that a day at Powderhorn will make the
high-speed commercial resorts seem less appealling to the true skier.
Not for hotshots, but wanderers will enjoy the range and variety.
Signature Trail: Snow Cloud.
Purgatory Resort, Durango • 1200 skiable acres on 2029′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 10,822′; Base elevation: 8793′. 11
Lifts: 1 sixpack, 1 quad, 4 triples, 3 doubles, 1 magic carpet, 1
surface. Uphill capacity: 15,050/hr. Terrain Mix: 23-51-26. Longest Run:
10,560′. Season: usually late November to early April. Rentals &
Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 260″. Snowmaking: 21%.
The SKInny: A lot of southern Colorado fans were upset when
their beloved Purgatory was renamed “Durango Mountain Resort.” Gotta
admit, Purgatory sounds like a wild sort of place, and the toned down
moniker sounded more like a golf course. Fortunately a Durango local
took over a couple years ago and set things straight again, Purgatory it
is. As for the skiing and riding, although the majority of runs are
nicely groomed blues, the hotshot can find plenty to do here. At the
other extreme, absolute beginners will love the Columbine area with its
reduced (but limited) ticket price. Young families will do well here,
starting on the ample green terrain and moving up to the meticulously
groomed blues. Wanderers may not like Purgatory as much as the monster
Colorado resorts, but should be satisfied by the variety of “sub areas”
and the work-around lift arrangement. And everybody will like the short
liftlines.
Signature Trails: Dead Spike, Bull Run.
Silver Creek see Granby Ranch, above.
Ruby Hill Rail Yard, Denver • 1 acre urban terrain park
The SKInny: Each January the city of Denver Parks and Rec Dept.,
Winter Park Resort and a bunch of volunteers lay down a few feet of
snow and install a number of features to create a one-acre square,
hike-up terrain park for local youth. The park is free and open to the
public daily until 9:00 pm, conditions permitting. It’s an outstanding
outlet for the youth, and hopefully creating a new crop of skiers and
riders as well.
Silverton Mountain, Silverton • 1900′ lift served vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,300′; Base elevation: 10,400′. 1
double. Uphill capacity: 8 skiers/guide; guided skiers only. Private
guided descents available. Most groups average 4-5 runs per day. Terrain
Mix: 100% expert. Reservations & Avalanche gear required. Ski area
offers powder ski rentals and avalanche gear rentals. Longest Run:
3,000′ vertical descent with hike. Season: usually late November to mid
April. Annual Snowfall: 400″.
The SKInny: This is the cutting edge ski “area” in the lower 48
right now. It’s also the newest large sized ski area in the country.
Lots of Colorado ski areas claim to be environmentally friendly, but the
elk herd and the native trout would disagree if they could. Silverton
really is enviro-friendly; it has no snowmaking, no clocktower village,
no golf course, no condos, and no new roads were built to service the
lift. Opened January 2002 on BLM land, Silverton Mountain, with a single
lift, recycled from Mammoth in California. Skiing is limited to a
specific number of skiers/day; you can generally expect to have no more
than 80 skiers on the mountain at any one time. Runs range from 30° to
55°, from expert powder runs to extreme chutes. Not for the average
skier — BUT if you are an advanced or expert skier, this is a must-ski.
Ski a full day at Silverton, and while you are lying in an exhausted
heap afterward, you will realize that this is what a ski area should be,
and that sometime during the day you moved beyond the need for the
absurd trappings of the Vails and Aspens.
Sol Vista see Granby Ranch, above.
Steamboat Ski Resort, Steamboat Springs • 2,939 skiable acres on 3,668′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 10,568′; Base elevation: 6900′. 25
Lifts: 1 gondie, 5 quads, 6 triples, 6 doubles, 7 surface. Uphill
capacity: 36,195/hr. Terrain Mix: 13-56-31. Longest Run: 15,840′.
Season: usually late November to early April. Rentals & Lessons.
Annual Snowfall: 335″. Snowmaking: 15%.
The SKInny: SkiTown USA…Steamboat is one of those classic places you
have
to ski at — partly for the skiing, partly for the ambiance. Pure,
contemporary Colorado, complete with working cattle ranches. A sleepy
little ski resort until US ski team member Bill Kidd donned a cowboy hat
and the image was remade in the early 70s. Not all the locals
appreciate this, but a secret as good as Steamboat was bound to get out
sooner or later. Not much needs to be said about the skiing. Six
mountains, 3,000 acres, bowls, glades, groomers, moguls, you name it. If
you can’t find it here, you can’t find it, period. Wanderers, hotshots,
extreme skiers, families, beginners — even condogolfthemerestaurant
types — Steamboat has something for everyone. Novices and intermediates
should check the grooming/trail report prior to hitting the slopes, as
Steamboat is known for moguls. Probably the most reasonably priced of
the big Colorado resorts (if there is such a thing). Operated by
Intrawest, who have a history of improving infrastructure but — for some
strange reason — liftlines seem to get long at Intrawest properties.
Signature Trail: Christmas Tree Bowl.
Sunlight Mountain Resort, Glenwood Springs • 470 skiable acres on 2,010′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 9895′; Base elevation: 7885′. 4 Lifts: 1
triple, 2 doubles, 1 rope tow. Uphill capacity: 4600/hr. Terrain Mix:
20-55-20-5. Longest Run: 13,200′. Season: usually late November to early
April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 250″. Snowmaking: 12%.
The SKInny: One of the “smaller” big mountains, but certainly no
slouch. The knock on Sunlight is the older lift system, and that you
have to combine lifts to reach the summit. But the stepped lift setup
somehow keeps things moving, keeps lines short, and gives the place a
sense of having more runs than it actually does. Other than the lifts,
Sunlight is terrific. No pretense here — this is no Aspen or Vail.
Plenty of good terrain…novice and intermediates are king at Sunlight,
but there is some nasty, nasty stuff for the hotshot. The wanderer can
spend a day here and not be bored at all. Beginners have a separate
area. Excellent all-around.
Signature Trail: Ute. (outstanding green trail)
Telluride, Telluride • 1700 skiable acres on 3,530′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,260′; Base elevation: 8725′. 16
Lifts: 1 gondie, 7 quads, 2 triples, 2 doubles, 1 platter, 1 magic
carpet. Uphill capacity: 21,186/hr. Terrain Mix: 24-38-38. Longest Run:
24,288′. Season: usually late November to early April. Rentals &
Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 300″. Snowmaking: 15%.
The SKInny: Although just as trendy, Telluride is a world away
from Aspen/Vail/Summit County, etc. more of a “southwestern” resort with
a markedly different atmosphere. One distressing similarity, however,
is the relatively high price tag that seems to come with being trendy.
Bring your wallet, and make sure it’s stuffed full before you arrive,
because it will empty rapidly. In fact, many skiers spend their nights
in Montrose, Ouray, etc. when skiing Telluride, to ease the depletion of
their bank accounts. Oprah, Brad, and a few others hang here. As for
the skiing, you positively can’t beat it. Better layout than its bigtime
neighbors in central and northern Colorado, and much shorter liftlines.
Telluride is a serious mountain, with awesome scenery and skiing, no
question. Skiing for all types…hotshot, wanderer, families,
beginners…some will argue that it is best all-around in CO., we’ll say
top five…Sort of like half a dozen ski areas in one, terrific blend of
forests, bowls, steeps and cruisers.
Signature Trail: Andy’s Gold.
Vail, Vail • 5289 skiable acres on 3,450′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,570′; Base elevation: 8120′. 34
Lifts: 1 gondie, 15 quads, 3 triples, 5 doubles, 9 surface. Uphill
capacity: 51,781/hr. Terrain Mix: 28-32-40. Longest Run: 24,288′.
Season: usually late November to mid April. Rentals & Lessons.
Annual Snowfall: 346″. Snowmaking: 7%.
The SKInny: Here’s one of the biggest the USA has to
offer…terrain, reputation, and cost, Vail is arguably #1. It also has
big liftlines, big flats, big crowds. At the same time, the size of the
place enables anybody and everybody to find some peaceful, outstanding
skiing with no lines…assuming you have figured out a quick way to get
there. Vail has so many lifts and trails on the front side, you can find
yourself on a wide, hopelessly crowded trail one moment, and the next
moment be on a nearly identical but empty trail…without the slightest
clue how you arrived there. The seven back bowls are often touted as one
of the draws at Vail, and that’s true, they are. Blue Sky Basin is
supposedly a backcountry experience, if you consider a mountain with
lifts and crowds to be backcountry. We’ll call it “civilized”
backcountry, and it’s wonderful — but you will find other skiers where
you least expect them. This is a fantastic, unbelievable ski
area…HOWEVER, do know that while Vail has lots and lots of everything,
it isn’t the ultimate ski destination for any one type of
skier…wanderers will like it, but the lift layout is frustrating.
Wandering takes a lot of time here. Hotshots will say it’s great, but
not the most challenging. Full-blown beginnners will be knocked over by
the sheer size of this place. Families will have a great time, but will
have trouble finding one another if they split up. In a way it’s like a
giant theme park…you know you gotta go there, even though you realize
everyone in the group will be exhausted and everyone under age ten will
be bawling by noon. Other Colorado resorts have better snow, better
scenery, better lift layout…but few have all of it to the degree Vail
has. It’s Vail, and it’s number one for a reason: big, incomprehensible,
fantastic, expensive, fabulous. Be advised that this has come at a
steep price to the region, both environmentally and socially. Buy in
advance — the price of a single day adult lift ticket at the window will
empty your wallet.
Signature Trail: Many people have their favorites, however, Riva
Ridge is still the quintessential Vail run. For many years now, Riva is
groomed every 4th day.
Winter Park Ski Resort, Winter Park • 3,060 skiable acres on 2,610′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 12,060′; Base elevation: 9000′. 25
Lifts: 2 sixpacks, 7 quads, 4 triples, 6 doubles, 1 t-bar, 1 platter
pull, 1 rope tow, 3 magic carpets. Uphill capacity: 38,370/hr. Terrain
Mix: 8-17-19-56. Longest Run: 5.5 miles. Season: usually early November
to mid April. Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 354″. Snowmaking:
10%.
The SKInny: Compared to Vail, Winter Park is “a festivus for the
restofus.” Not as big, but certainly not as pricey. With what is
essentially five or six ski areas in one, Winter Park is plenty big
enough for everybody, but short on glitz and glamour. This is the resort
area the everyday American visits…free shuttles, tubing, horse-drawn
sleigh rides…and skiing, skiing, skiing without the distraction of
pretense and celebrity. Hotshots have their own mountain, the relatively
“new” (1975) Mary Jane ski area. Parsenn Bowl, Vazquez Cirque and
Winter Park’s main mountain have something for everyone, and plenty of
it. Liftlines can get long on weekends, but if you fan out you can keep
moving nicely. Some have the impression that Winter Park is bump-city,
experts-only, but that is due to the big reputation of the Mary Jane
section. This is truly an all-around ski area, beloved by beginner and
expert alike, with plenty of roaming for the wanderer. Excellent glades.
Signature Trails: Mary Jane (which is to say, the section called Mary Jane), Powder Express, Outhouse.
Bumper Sticker: No Pain, No Jane
Wolf Creek, Pagosa Springs • 1600 skiable acres on 1604′ vertical
Specs: Summit elevation: 11,904′; Base elevation: 10,300′. 6
Lifts: 1 quad, 2 triples, 2 doubles, 1 magic carpet. Uphill capacity:
8280/hr. Terrain Mix: 20-35-25-20. Longest Run: 10,560′. 500 additional
acres served by snowcat. Season: usually early November to mid April.
Rentals & Lessons. Annual Snowfall: 465″.
The SKInny: Snowmaking? If they really, really tried, you could
probably ski 10 months a year in this Central Colorado dumping ground,
which averages 39′ per. Although “small” by Colorado standards, this is a
mid-sized vertical that really delivers. Reasonably priced, plenty of
terrain, zero liftlines (usually). With all this, Wolf Creek has managed
to avoid being gobbled up by a mega-resort operator, remaining a
family-run gem…probably due to its hard-to-get-to location. Take our
advice: Make the effort. Wolf Creek is a sleeper. Wanderers will love
this place, a number of trails have a “getting lost” feel, and you can
zip between most of the gladed stuff and, in a sense, almost make your
own trails. All-around wonderful, even if you don’t venture off the main
area.
Signature Trails: Knife Ridge, Tranquility.
Some more Colorado ski links…
Guide to a Reasonable Family Ski Vacation in Colorado
A workable plan for intermediate and novice easterners, midwesterners,
and Texans who want to ski Colorado without breaking their legs or their
wallets.
Summit County Weekender
OK it’s Saturday in Summit County, and everybody is headed somewhere. Where you gonna go?
Colorado Ski History
General website with lost ski areas, lift history, trivia, news, you name it. A must-click.
Colorado Skier Safety Statute
Transcript of the law enacted in 1979. This isn’t required reading, but
it is interesting to know what ski area operators are required to do,
and what skiers are not permitted to do.
If you’re into throwback ski areas — the ones Colorado so cleverly
calls the “gems,” there is an outstanding book we recommend for
discovering the state’s “Lost” ski areas. There are dozens of ski areas
that now lie dormant, some impossible to identify without this
guide…others are so well preserved that you could swear you’d see ghost
skiers. The book is called
Powder Ghost Towns: Epic Backcountry Runs in Colorado’s Lost Ski Resorts
by Peter Bronski. A nice advantage to this book is that it not only
tells you how to find these places, but how to ski and board them as
well.
