Friday, March 31, 2017

The hierarchy of the road

Respect. That’s what missing from our roads. Nobody respects anybody. Drivers in cycle lanes, cyclists on pavements, pedestrians in cycle lanes, cyclists running red lights, drivers speeding. It goes on. We’ve become a self-entitled, self-centred, self-important society. A self society. And it’s ugly, real damn ugly.
Sure, we must look out for ourselves but at all costs? What does it cost to look out for others? To respect and care for one another? I can but dream. We cyclists often feel like we’re on the receiving end in such a world, and it’s often true, yet we also ignore others in the pursuit of the self. I count myself amongst that number.

I’ve commuted in London by bike for well over ten years. In that time, I’ve had hundreds of pedestrians step into my path. Two of them had the misfortune to feel steel against skin. Ouch.
Both incidents were many years ago in my (more) reckless youth. Not that either would have been classed as my ‘fault’ in a court of law. Yet this is beside the point. We should rarely rely on our courts, the very same system that fines a driver more for killing a swan than a cyclist.
Truth is, I wasn’t respecting the road as a shared space when I hit those two people. I had adopted the attitude that pedestrians shouldn’t have been on the road, just like car drivers who think cyclists shouldn’t be on the road, an attitude sadly reinforced this week by the UK’s so-called transport minister (I don’t know whether to laugh or cry).
I now cycle with more care and attention, adopting what should be a worldwide philosophy, the hierarchy of the road:
Pedestrians >> Cyclists >> Motorbikes >> Motor vehicles
What does this mean for cyclists? It means pedestrians come first. It means you have little excuse for hitting a pedestrian. It means you give way to pedestrians crossing at junctions (just like the Highway Code advises for cars).
It means you look out for pedestrians crossing the road in traffic even when there is no crossing. It means you wait for pedestrians to cross the traffic lights when the light is flashing amber (again, as the Highway Code advises).
Even in both of my collisions, where you could legitimately argue the pedestrians should have taken responsibility to look out for themselves, I still believe I could have been a better cyclist and looked out for them (as I now do).

Cyclist runs a pedestrian crossing. The clue’s in the name.
Collision #1: Pedestrian jumps off the rear of an old Routemaster bus and straight into my path. I had no chance to swerve, to brake, to shout, to use a bell. So what could I have done? Simple, I could have slowed down, giving me more time to react. I could have given the bus a wider berth when passing, allowing those exiting the bus more space to depart.
Collision #2: Pedestrian crosses the road, filtering through the stationary cars stuck in heavy traffic, unaware that I am riding on the road near the curb. Pedestrian assumes it is safe to cross because the traffic on the road is stationary and they don’t even think there could be a cyclist coming. Out they step, right in front of me. Wallop.
As above, I had no chance of reacting but once again, I could have slowed down, I could have been aware that pedestrians are highly likely to be crossing the road and may not be looking out for cyclists.
Should they be looking out for cyclists? Ideally, yes of course, but all other road users should modify their behaviour to look out for more vulnerable road users. So is a cyclist to blame in every pedestrian-cyclist incident? Of course not, but slowing down and showing more consideration would reduce the incidents, the near misses, the intimidation.
What about taking responsibility for our own safety? Certainly, otherwise we’d not last too long as a species. Yet where do you draw the line? This logic is often used by drivers who believe cyclists should wear helmets in case they are hit by the driver of a vehicle who didn’t see them or wear hi-viz clothing because, again, the driver didn’t see them.
Following the hierarchy of the road, a driver should be driving slow enough to see everything (i.e. obeying the speed limit!), even a cyclist dressed in normal clothes. If the conditions are bad, they should slow (showing consideration for other road users) and cyclists should use a light (showing consideration to other road users). Drivers should expect cyclists on the road, just like I as a cyclist expect pedestrians to be on the road. The road is a shared space. It is not the preserve of cyclists or car drivers.

Still not convinced? Flip the scenario. Cyclist is filtering through traffic. Using the self-responsibility rationale, the cyclist should be looking out for drivers turning left across their path, car doors opening, etc. Right? Yes, of course they should be looking out for themselves, but drivers should look out for cyclists too.
It is not always possible for cyclists to leave enough space to avoid car doors opening. Drivers should check their mirrors for cyclists when opening their door and exiting the vehicle just as they would check for other cars when crossing the road. They should let cyclists move off from traffic lights and patiently wait to overtake etc. You get the picture.
People being considerate to others? An ideal? Here in the UK, yes a crazy dream in a country where a large majority of road users (of all types) have a sense of self-entitlement where only they and their needs exist.
Are there cases where the hierarchy of the road doesn’t apply? Sure. Pavements are not shared spaces, hence no cyclists or cars should ever be on the pavement. This is the domain of the pedestrian. Cyclists have segregated cycle paths. These are the domain of the cyclist. They should be respected by pedestrians as much as pavements should be respected by cyclists.
What about the car? Well car drivers, some of you may think the road is your domain but you my friend are incorrect. The only domain solely for cars are motorways. That’s right. Every other road is shared and therefore should adhere to the hierarchy of the road.

When shared spaces just don’t work

There’s many examples. A shared path for cyclists and pedestrians can work. Cyclists must slow down to use them and use a bell. Pedestrians must look out for cyclists and avoid walking in marked bike lanes and look both ways when crossing them. However if the shared path is in a very busy area, e.g. seafront boardwalk, then I’d argue that a shared cycle-pedestrian path doesn’t work.
There’s just too many pedestrians and so cyclists would be better off either on the road (which should always be a shared space too remember!) or better still, on a segregated bike path. Often such shared spaces are badly designed too, which only adds to the confusion.
Where else are shared spaces unsuitable? Busy and narrow canal towpaths. It is unpleasant to be a pedestrian on a narrow towpath with bikes coming through. Here the hierarchy fails, not because pedestrians or cyclists have failed but because the space has failed as a shared space, it makes the experience unpleasant for the most vulnerable user of the space, i.e. the pedestrian.
Where else? Busy dual carriageways. Cyclists can legally ride on a dual carriageway. Should they? Not if they can avoid them. Vehicles moving at 70 mph (and over of course) and cyclists just don’t mix. Again, even if both the driver and the pedestrian are in a shared space observing all of the rules, the space itself is unpleasant for the most vulnerable user of the road, i.e. the cyclist. Of course it is not always possible for cyclists to route without hitting these horrid roads, again because of an infrastructure fail.

Speaking of fails, how about the common sight of the ‘National Speed Limit Applies’ sign (70 mph / 113 kmh) on a narrow and twisty country roads in the UK? Here madness lies.

So how do we achieve this Utopian ideal?


Consideration, nothing but an artist’s impression?
Good question. It requires a change in human behaviour, in law. The former takes generations but can be accelerated by a change to the latter. Changing the law is relatively easy, but what use are laws if unenforced? 79% of US drivers say it is safe to speed, 80% of UK drivers admit to speeding57% of cyclists admit to having jumped a red light (14% regularly).
How to enforce laws? First you need evidence. There’s not enough police to enforce what they perceive to be misdemeanors. Yet there’s enough drivers and cyclists on the roads with video cameras. Unfortunately such evidence is routinely ignored so again, you’d need funding to create an enforcement team. Where to get funding? Fines. You’d probably have enough revenue in a single month to fund such a team for years.
Once caught, you need justice. Points on licenses, fines, education courses, community service and ultimately prison. At the moment a few points or pounds here and there is nothing, if by a miracle of misfortune you’re caught. Should the chances of you being caught increase, the points and pounds will soon aggregate and will make you think twice about who could be filming.
So we all need to buy cameras and spy on each other? It’s a sorry state of affairs for sure but if, like naughty children, we cannot be trusted to regulate our own behavior then others must do it for us.
What’s the alternative? I’d be interested to hear your thoughts in the comments. Self-driving cars offer hope. Programmed to obey rules, breaking traffic laws could in theory be eliminated. Assuming the programmers get the code right in the first place of course. Last, but not least, we can all try to modify our own behaviour and be considerate to others no matter our choice of transport.

Thursday, March 30, 2017

Want Good Running Form?


Is a good stride a matter of many disparate elements coming together or one underlying virtue?

Running form is still a hot topic these days. Countless articles about running form have been printed and posted within the past couple of years, long threads on form keep appearing in online running forums, experts on running form are touring the country talking about it, whole books on running form have lately hit the presses, and running coaches all over the country are now teaching running form, whereas in the past they ignored it.
With all this communication going on, we must have a very clear idea of what good running form is, right? Not really. In fact, all of this communication about running form is going on precisely because we don’t yet have a clear idea of its proper definition. If we’d figured it out we would have fallen silent on the topic and moved on to another.
If you ask any given “expert” on running form what it is, you’ll likely get a response that consists of a laundry list of seemingly unrelated characteristics: a midfoot or forefoot footstrike, a slight forward lean, relaxed shoulders, eyes focused straight ahead, and so forth. To improve your running form, you must instill each of these characteristics in your stride. They will somehow add up to speed and efficiency.
Perhaps it’s the Plato in me, but intuition has always told me that, whatever it is, good running form must be a single thing, not a grab bag of things. And if you take a close look at the research on running form, you will find some pretty solid evidence that good running form may indeed be one single thing.

Thursday, March 23, 2017

Flat Bike Tire Quick Fix Tips

A flat bike tire is the most common mechanical problem for cyclists. While the idea of changing a flat sounds daunting, it’s actually an easy fix. To avoid getting stranded (or surfing through half the contacts on your mobile phone), grab your wheel, a set of tire levers and an air pump and practice changing your bike’s tube.

Step 1: Remove the bike wheel

Begin by either unhooking or flipping the lever on the cable that clasps your brakes together. This ensures there’s space for the wheel to pass through the brakes. Then either unscrew the bolt or flip the lever on the wheel’s quick release and loosen it. If you need to replace the front tire, remove it. If the puncture’s on the rear tire, shift the chain to the smallest rear cog and then pull the derailleur back, sliding the wheel out from the chain.

Step 2: Locate the offender

It could be a tiny piece of glass or a sharp cinder that caused the flat. Hitting a pothole can also compress the tire, pinching a hole in the bike tube. Hitting a larger object like a rock will leave a gash in the sidewall of the tire, which is usually easy to spot. Start by checking the valve stem for damage and if it looks okay, fix your peepers on the rest of the tire, slowly scanning it for damage. If you locate something that doesn’t belong, carefully remove it.

Step 3: Remove the flat bike tire

Let the rest of the air out of the bike tire and then grab your tire levers and slide the edge of the lever under the tire’s stiff bead on the side opposite to the valve stem. Push the bead toward the center of the tire as you slide the lever underneath and move around the tire. If you can’t unseat the bead with just one lever, hook the first lever on a spoke and slide a second lever under the bead. Then carefully work your way around the tire. Once the tire is unseated on one side, carefully pull the valve stem out of the wheel. Inspect the tube and tire for damage and remove any sharp items. It’s crucial that you remove the sharp object from the tire or you’ll have another flat in your future.

Step 4: Replace the flat bike tube

While you can patch a tube, it’s still safer to replace it. Take the new tube, open the valve stem and blow enough air to just barely inflate it so it begins to take shape. Next insert the valve stem into the hole in the rim and slip the tube into the tire. When one side/bead of the tire is in the rim, repeat this step on the other side, using your thumbs to push the tire onto the rim, working from the valve stem out. Just be careful not to pinch the tube in the rim.

Step 5: Inflate the new bike tire

Before you begin adding air, take one last look to ensure that the tube isn’t sticking out of the tire. Then inflate the tire using either a CO2 cartridge or pump and reinstall the wheel. Don’t forget to replace your CO2 cartridge and tube so you’re prepared for the next time.

Quick tips to avoid a flat bike tire:

  • Inspect your bike tires regularly for excessive wear, flat spots or any sharp objects
  • If you accidentally ride through glass, reach down with the palm of your glove and lightly scrape the bike tire as it spins (careful with the rear tire) or stop riding and spin the tire
  • Check your tire pressure every couple of rides and inflate it to the proper PSI. Under and over-inflated tires are both susceptible to pinch flats
  • Avoid riding through debris
  • Frequent flats? Talk to your local bike shop about using a more durable bike tube or tire
  • Ride with the right bike tools with you

Saturday, March 18, 2017

Best Ski and Bike Shop in Breckenridge - BAR NONE

Elevation Ski and Bike offers a memorable experience for the whole family with their spectacular Breckenridge bike rentals (http://www.elevationskiandbike.com). Proud of being a staple in the center of town, in Breckenridge, and a gathering spot for all sports enthusiasts, this bike rentals Denver hotspot offers all biking services including:
  •     Bike Rentals
  •     Bike Repair
  •     Ski packages
  •     Snowboard Packages
  •     Snowshoes & Clothing
As the best bike rental shop in Colorado, Elevation offers bikes for the entire family from the professional rider to novice. Their stock includes demo mountain bikes from Intense and NORCO, bike path cruisers for the leisure riders, Jr. Bikes, trailers and baby joggers, as well as carriers for the newer families and tandem bikes for romantic rides.

Elevation also offers excellent bike repair services in case anything happens on the road with a client’s current equipment. The staff is professional and best of all, they love what they do. Each member is passionate about their craft, making every experience at Elevation a great one.
Elevation’s staff is entirely dedicated to a great experience, taking care of all biking needs as well as being a leader in what’s going on in Breckenridge. They know all of the best spots and recommend mountains and trails according to experience, and what the customer is looking for that particular day.
As the leaders of bike rentals (www.elevationskiandbike.com in Denver, Elevation beats out their competition through price, skill and quality. 

About Elevation
Tim Perkins and his staff know a thing or two about Breckenridge. Elevation has been serving our mountain community since 2009. Be sure to catch up with them to get the rundown when visiting.
Elevation/ 324 N. Main Street/ Breckenridge, CO. Winter Hours: 8am-8pm daily. Summer Hours: 9am-6pm daily. if you have any questions please call (970)453-2499,  or email info@elevationskiandbike.com.

Monday, March 6, 2017

Safety First

Safe ice and great fishing are just around the corner in much of the Ice Belt.
“Everyone should be pumped up this ice season,” Hawthorne says. “It’s looking like we’re going to have a great ice-fishing year. Once your ice is safe, you should have no trouble getting out there and catching some panfish.”
Follow These Tips to Ensure Your Safety:
Don’t step onto early-season ice without an ice chisel, such as Rapala’s two-piece 62-inch Chisel. When venturing out, thrust it into the ice ahead of your every step. If the ice cracks, or the chisel breaks through, turn back, it’s not safe there.
Wear Rapala Ice Safety Spikes around your neck. Spikes make it much easier to get enough grip and leverage to pull yourself up and out if you fall through the ice.
Leave most of your gear on shore when you first walk on the ice. This cuts down on weight and allows you move quietly. Pulling your sled creates noise that could prevent you from hearing warning signs.
Don’t step on the ice for the first time in the dark. Darkness can conceal dangerous cracks and soft spots. Instead of embarking before daybreak to fish an early-morning low-light bite, set out for the first time in full daylight.
Mark a safe route to your fishing spot – physically, and via a GPS track – that you can follow back safely to shore after fishing.
Wearing a personal flotation device (PFD). Carrying a throwable flotation device is not sufficient.
Bring a rope and a friend. One of you should walk a significant distance behind the other and carry a 100-foot rope. On both ends of the rope, tie a loop (but not a slip knot – preferably a bowline knot) large enough for a person to slip over his shoulders and under his armpits. A person can pull with more power with the rope around their body than just pulling with their arms. The person in the water should slip into the loop, if possible. Cold hands and shock from cold water can make it harder to hold onto a rope; should the person become weak, or pass out, a rope under their armpits can help a rescuer pull them out regardless.
Distribute your weight. If the ice does begin to crack, quickly get down on your hands and knees – or even lay down on the ice – to distribute your weight. Then slowly crawl back in the direction you’ve just come.
Share your travel plan. Set, stick to, and share with a spouse, significant other, friend or family member a travel plan – where you will be fishing, where you will park, and when you will get off the ice – and immediately call them to report your return to safe ground. Request that they come looking for you – or contact the authorities – if you do not call close to the appointed time. Use the same person every trip and never forget to call. You don’t want your person to think you forgot to call and assume that you are safe. That person could be your last chance at rescue.

Thursday, March 2, 2017

How To De-Tune Your Snowboard

Tools Needed

Metal File                          

Removing Rough Edges 

When it comes to detuning your board, you always want to detune the Tip and Tail. This is essential for Cambered boards. It's not essential for Reverse Cambered boards but we would still advise you to do it, so you get the most out of your board and increase it's longevity. It only takes a short time anyway and it will improve your boards performance. 
Cambered baord
Reverse Cambered board
When de-tuning your board, start with your Tip and Tail as these are your biggest contact points to the snow. Place your elbow on the board to get yourself into a good position that gives you leverage for filing your edges. You then want to file at different angles so you round the edge, instead of creating a flat one.


To round the edge, start 2 inches (5cm) within the effective edge, to smoothen up the tip and tail of the board. By doing this, you remove the rough sharp edges, which is better for the feel of your board under foot, and will also stop tearing your gloves apart every time you go to do a grab.

Softening the Edges

Once you've softened up the Tip & Tail, you want to detune the heel and toe edges of your board. First, using your finger-nail check if the edges feel sharp. If it feels sharp, you want to soften up the edges with a Diamond Stone. Place the board on its side and go along the bottom and side edges with the Diamond Stone to remove the sharp edges.

If the edges are feeling grabby, use the Gummy Stones to fine tune the edges. Start with the Rough stone first. Then use the Soft stone to fine-tune the edges. Fine tune the edges by using the gummy stone on the bottom edges of the board, and on the side. Alternate between the bottom and side edges until you are happy with the feel.
Tuning Tip: You always want to finish off on the Side edge - This will remove any sharp edges from poking out and ensure that any sharp spots face down.
Once you have finished smoothing the edges, the feeling you're looking for is a sharp and slippery edge. If your edges feel sharp and slippery, you are then ready for the next step, Waxing.