Tuesday, December 31, 2019

Winter Activities that Aren't Skiing

Summit County is a great winter destination most notably for the world-class skiing at one of the four ski resorts within a 20-minute drive. But what if you’re not a skier or snowboarder? Luckily there are dozens of other activities around Summit County that don’t require ski boots, though a pair of warm boots would still be helpful for the majority of these activities.
Take a Stroll Downtown
Both Breckenridge and Frisco have incredible downtowns with excellent shopping and dinning. Frisco’s main street is heralded as the “Main Street of the Rockies” and Breckenridge’s Main Street is historic Colorado at its finest. With everything from funky t-shirt shops to candy shops and museums, there’s something for everyone in your group to enjoy during a stroll through downtown.
Check out the Local Distilleries and Breweries
There’s a number of excellent craft breweries and distilleries in Breckenridge and Frisco where you can get a tasty adult beverage. Some of our favorites in Breckenridge are Broken Compass Brewery, Breckenridge Brewery, and Breckenridge Distillery. Our favorites in Frisco are Outer Range Brewing Company and HighSide Brewing.
Dog Sledding
Dog sledding is an excellent adventure for those looking to experience the outdoors while visiting the high country. Snow Caps Sled Dogs and Good Times Adventure Tours offer dog sledding around Breckenridge and Frisco.
Catch a Movie
The Speakeasy Movie Theater in Breckenridge is a great place to catch a flick! With an old timey feel and top of the line seating, you can watch the latest movie and you can even order a beer or wine for the show!
Tubing and Sledding
Tubing and sledding are exhilarating activities and with the help of some of the magic carpet (like the moving walkways in airports) you don’t need to be that athletic to enjoy a day of tubing with the family. The two best hills for sledding and tubing are the Frisco Adventure Park, where you’ll find the magic carpet, and Carter Park in Breckenridge, where you can hike a short hill for some sledding action.
Catch a Live Show
There are plenty of events that take place in Breckenridge and Frisco and plenty of live music at the bars around town. Catching a live show is a great way to spend you evening! Some of the best resources for live events that are going on are the local news paper the Summit Daily News and GoBreck. The Town of Frisco also has a lineup of great year-round events.
See the Dillon Ice Castle
The Dillon Ice Castle is back again this year and is a great place to experience something completely unique while you’re on your vacation. The even offer free performances like fire juggling! Check out their website for a completely list of activities and all the information you need.
Take a Hike
Just because there’s snow on the ground doesn’t mean you can’t go for a hike in the wilderness that surrounds Summit County. Snowshoeing is a great way to hike winter trails, though most of the time a good pair of snow boots is all you need to enjoy the serenity of the trail. Checkout this local trail map and find your favorite Summit County trail!
Ride the Gondola
Riding the Breckenridge Gondola is a great way to see the local landscape and the best part is it’s completely free! Just hop on the gondola and enjoy the views! You can even stop into one Breckenridge’s base area bars like the T-Bar or Robbies Tavern (our new favorite place for on-mountain eats).
Ride a Bike
While it may not be summer you can still get out on a bike! Try the newest hot trend this year and take a fat bike out for a spin. Fat bikes have oversized tires that provide traction in slippery environments like snow and ice. There’s a number of places to rent a fat bike in Summit County.

Friday, December 27, 2019

How Much Should You Spend on Your 1st Bike?

I'm the guy with a bike that costs more than my car. When friends ask me how much they should spend on a new bike, I can tell they are a little afraid to hear my answer. But they don’t need to be like me and neither do you. In fact, you probably shouldn’t be like me. You can ride an affordable bike and be just as happy (probably richer) and maybe even faster than me.

It’s no secret that cycling can be very expensive. Countless forum topics attract clicks with titles like “Why do bikes cost so much?” or “Are bike prices out of control?” The subject of rising bike prices gets people going, especially with halo bikes costing more than $10,000. Explaining the economic and technological factors behind bike costs would take us deep into another rabbit hole.

Instead, for you newer riders, I'm here to tell you how to buy smart and get the most for your money. I'll explain why you should spend a reasonable amount — about $1,000-2,000 — on a high-quality pre-owned bike, ideally made in the last 5-10 years.
$1,000-2,000 may seem like a lot of money to some. To others, it may seem like too little. But this is a good starting point for riders who are motivated to get into cycling but aren't ready to eclipse the cost of their cars.
If you don’t plan on riding often, if you’re only doing brief rides and locking your bike up permanently outdoors, if you’re not sure you’ll take to cycling as a hobby, or if your life circumstances just don’t allow it, it’s entirely okay to spend less than $1,000 on a budget bike to satisfy your needs.
Otherwise, I believe the old adage of “buy cheap, buy twice” applies here. Spending approximately this much will get you a good, pre-owned, recent model-year bike that won’t need many upgrades if any. This price range opens up a huge selection of good options for entry-level machines.
A quick disclaimer: I work for a business that sells bikes. The Pro's Closet offers a large selection of entry-level bikes. I would love for you to buy a bike from us. But even if you don’t, I think you should always seek the best value possible.
Buying pre-owned allows you to get a slightly higher-end bike with better components when compared to buying new. You can easily find great used bikes in this suggested price range from private sellers. But some of the added benefits we provide are a 30-day return policy, reliable shipping, a full inspection and tune, and a dedicated customer service team. We even offer Affirm financing that lets you ride a bike now and pay later.
Find the right bike and you can be confident it will hold its value better, have better components and technology, and will allow you to enter the sport with a solid foundation for growth.

Check the Original Price

Just like cars, boats, skis, and computers, bikes depreciate. The moment a new bike leaves the shop floor it loses some value. Our expert used-bike purchasing team here at The Pro's Closet has studied this phenomenon for years. They have developed a simple rule to follow when purchasing a used bike, which you can use too.
As a business, we avoid buying bikes that have an original MSRP lower than $1,500 because bikes at and above that price are of much higher quality and will maintain their value and desirability for longer. A quick Internet search will help you determine the original retail price of any bike you're looking at.
Understandably, a bicycle that costs over $1,000 is a big purchase. However, if you can spend a bit more on your bike up front, it will be a better investment in the long run.
When you buy a bike on the very low-end of the price spectrum, the value simply isn't there because it is often in poor condition or equipped with components that don't function well or are prone to wear. Worst of all, bikes like this will be difficult, if not impossible to resell later because their desirability is so low. It will be very hard to recoup any money you've put in.
Plus, bikes in the sub-$1,000 range are usually built with generic, bottom of the barrel components, or that have severely outdated designs. These bikes won’t function as well, they will be less durable, and they won't be as nice to ride.
Read this story to learn more about how depreciation affects the price of used bikes.

Keep it Current

Bikes are constantly evolving. New technologies and standards are introduced at an overwhelming pace. Some riders get a new bike every season just to stay on the newest equipment. But that is unreasonable for most of us, and in reality, it’s far from necessary.
We've already established that you should look for a pre-owned in the $1,000-2,000 range that had a new retail price of $1,500 or greater. But how old is too old when it comes to model year?
The third rule of thumb is to seek out bikes made within the last 5-10 years. These are more likely to have components and technology that work as well as any of the latest and greatest bikes. Drivetrains that are one to two generations older generally have comparable technology to the newest parts. They may not have all the bells and whistles, but they won't ruin your ride.
For example, my first "real" road bike had a 10-speed drivetrain when all the new bikes had 11-speed drivetrains. Did I miss that extra cog? Not at all. The bike still worked great and I loved riding it.
As long as the componentry on your bike is from the last 5-10 years, it also has the added benefit of compatibility. Bikes are constantly being refined, new and improved technology is always trickling down from top-end offerings into more affordable options. If things do go wrong, it’s easier to get replacement parts if your bike is equipped with newer components that are compatible with modern technologies.
Bike geometry is also constantly evolving and older bikes generally don't handle as well as newer bikes. This is especially true of mountain bikes, which have seen a huge shift in geometry over the last 10 years. Spending more for a slightly newer bike will ensure your bike benefits from the latest refinements in geometry and improved handling characteristics.

If you are unfamiliar with bicycle technology, I would suggest reading any one of our more detailed Buyer's Guides for Road, Gravel, Mountain, and Women’s bikes.
These guides cover bike design and component technology in much more detail. They also provide drivetrain component hierarchies that can help when comparing different bikes. Generally, any bike of acceptable quality will have a drivetrain listed in the component hierarchies of the Buyer's Guides.

Set a Solid Foundation for Growth

My own experience has shown me that getting a higher quality bike from the get-go increases the likelihood that you will enjoy riding and continue to ride regularly.
Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes. I bought my first bike for $250 off Craigslist. It was an ancient Peugeot with six speeds, 52/42t chainrings, friction shifters, center-pull brakes, and various other outdated components.
As my first bike, the Peugeot was troublesome because I had been hoping to do some serious riding. The stiff gearing and imprecise shifting didn’t help my novice-level fitness handle climbs. The petrified brake pads and weak, outdated calipers terrified me on descents. The wheels were impossible to true and I had trouble finding vintage 27” tires and six-speed chains at my local bike shops. Riding long distances on this bike was uncomfortable at best.
I now can appreciate the charm of vintage bikes, but I would never subject myself to riding this bike ever again.
Owning a bike like this can be an adventure. Sometimes it's fun. But a lot more times it's just frustrating and unpleasant. For a broke college kid just trying to get to class, the Peugeot was an okay option. But that's all I used it for. It wasn’t until I upgraded to the next bike that I truly fell in love with riding and felt like I became a cyclist.

I saved up and purchased a used Cannondale CAAD10 (from The Pro’s Closet actually, before I was an employee) for $1,500. At the time it was already a couple of years old with an aluminum frame and an older 10-speed Shimano Ultegra group. But it was lightyears ahead of the Peugeot.

My Cannondale, the first "real" bike I owned was relatively affordable and it pushed me to become the rider I am today. Here it is at the top of the biggest climb I'd ever done at the time. I was so proud, and my bike helped me get there. 
The Cannondale was fast, reliable, and refined — three things the Peugeot never was. The drivetrain shifted smoothly. The wheels were stiff and straight, and the brakes actually slowed me down when I was going fast. The geometry was modern and felt agile and exciting. Best of all, it didn’t weigh 30 pounds like the Peugeot. Spending more than I did on my first bike got me something that was simply better in every way. The Cannondale was plenty affordable and honestly, it rode nearly as well as any of my more recent $5,000 road bikes.
The bike’s good qualities pushed me to develop as a cyclist. It made me want to ride more. I started doing longer more adventurous rides. It made me brave enough to take on group rides and the occasional race. I got fitter and became increasingly enamored with the sport.
Because I actually loved riding this bike, it helped me build a solid foundation of skills and fitness. Its reliability meant I didn’t have to think when I went out for rides. It just worked. I upgraded parts as they wore out or broke, and rode it for several years. It's now been replaced as my tastes have become more refined and I’ve come to understand what I really want. Still, I credit much of my development as a rider to this bike.

If you're determined enough, you can be happy and develop as a rider on a $250 Peugeot. If you can, then you're a tougher, more talented rider than I am!

But if your goal is to ride regularly and progress your fitness and skills, a bike in the $1,000-2000 range will facilitate your growth and make it easier to fall in love with cycling.

Thursday, December 19, 2019

How to Wax Your Skis and Snowboard

The first measurable snow of the season made its way through Summit County this past week, dropping more than a foot of snow in some areas and prompting Arapahoe Basin to announce it will open for the first day of the season this Friday, Oct. 19! Get your pass for the first ski day of the season! And now that old man winter is knocking at the door, it’s time to tune up your skis and snowboards in preparation for the fast approaching opening day of Summit County’s ski resorts.
How to Tune Your Own Skis
Sure you could take your skis or snowboard to the local wax shop and have them put a fresh coat of wax on your sticks or plank for you. But why do that when you can do the same thing in the comfort of your own home? Like a fly fisherman who ties his own flies knows, there is a sense of pride that comes with utilizing your own skills to enhance the sports you pursue.
What You’ll Need
A few tools are needed to wax your own skis. These include base cleaner or rubbing alcohol, wax, an iron, and a plastic scraper. When choosing a wax, you can choose from temperature-specific waxes or a universal wax. If you are looking for top performance, pick a temperature-specific wax that will suite the outdoor temperature during the time you plan to ride. I usually use a universal wax as it performs just fine for my needs in nearly all conditions. When choosing an iron, you can buy a waxing iron designed specifically for waxing skis from most ski shops or you can use an old clothes iron. Just be sure to label the old clothes iron so you don’t inadvertently try to use it to iron your favorite shirt! The plastic scraper can again be purchased from most ski shops and they come in all shapes, sizes, and prices.
Getting Started
The first thing you will want to do secure your skis to your workbench. If you are using a ski vise, tighten the vise around the center of the ski or snowboard. If you don’t have a vise, a couple of stacks of books placed under your skis or snowboard at either end of the binding works just fine. When waxing downhill skis, retract the ski brake by depressing the pedal, causing the brake arms to pop up, parallel with the ski. Use a strong rubber band and hook one brake arm and then take the rubber band over the top of the heelpiece of the binding and hook the other arm. This will keep the brakes out of the way while you work.
Clean the Base
Now you’ll want to clean all the old wax as well as any dirt or debris from the base of the ski using a clean rag moistened with rubbing alcohol or base cleaner. Wipe off any visible debris and old wax and allow to dry for around 20 minutes before applying wax.
Apply the Wax
Allow your iron to heat up. The iron should be hot enough to easily melt wax but not so hot that it is smoking. Once the temperature of your iron has stabilized, you can begin to drip wax on your skis or snowboard. Hold the chunk of wax to the iron and allow the melted wax droplets to drip onto the base while holding the iron around 2 to 4 inches above the base. You want to drip enough wax to cover the base of the ski or board almost completely.
Once you have the wax dripped onto the base place the iron on the base of the ski or snowboard and spread the wax over the entire base until a layer of wax coats the entire surface. Just like ironing a shirt, don’t hold the iron in one place for too long as this could case the base to blister. Make sure the wax melts and covers the entire base from edge to edge and tip to tail. If an area is still dry, apply more wax and smooth again.
Once the base is covered in a thin layer of wax allow it to completely cool for about 30 minutes to an hour. Don’t set your skis or snowboard outside to cool as the cold temperatures will push the wax back out of the pores in the base.
Scraping and Buffing
Once the wax has cooled, it’s time to move onto the scraping. Using a plastic scraper, scrape the base from tip to tail, removing excess wax in overlapping and continuous strokes. Continue scrapping until the base is nearly free of visible wax. Wax will remain in the pores of the base of your skis or snowboard.
Make sure to remove all wax from the metal edges of the ski or snowboard completely. Some scrapers have a notch cut into them to help with this process.
Next, buff the bottom of your base by using either a nylon brush or a scouring pad like a Scotch Brite pad.
That’s it! Now you are ready to hit the slopes with your freshly waxed skis or snowboard! Make sure to wear a helmet as you’ll be going much faster now that you can wax your setup anytime you want. 

The Best Early Season Ski Runs


Skiing during the early season is great to help get you out on the slopes and to get your ski legs ready for the inevitable powder days to come. Finding the best runs this early in the season can be a daunting task, as most resorts only have a few runs open and they typically get skied off within minutes of opening. While we all wait for Old Man Winter to provide enough snow to open the rest of the terrain at the ski resorts, here are Summit Mountain Rentals' suggestions for getting some early season turns!
Get There Early
Just like on a powder day, the early bird gets the best turns! While nothing beats getting the first turns on a powder day, during the early ski season the best turns are had early in the morning while last night’s groom is still fresh on the run. If you can get to the lifts before the rest of the crowd, you can get first laps on the fresh groom track, which can be just as satisfying as getting first tracks on a powder day. Going early also allows you to get a good ski day in before afternoon when the runs typically get icy and scraped off.
Where to ski
While you won’t have a great selection of runs that will be open during the early season, every resort is open in Summit County thanks to a couple of early snow storms and the snowmaking crews at each resort. The hard decision will be which resort to ski at and not so much which run to ski.
Breckenridge
If you choose to ski Breckenridge, you can choose between three or four full runs currently. Check all of the runs that are currently open by clicking here. One of my favorite runs to ski early season at Breckenridge is Northstar. This run swings you to the north of the Rocky Mountain Superchair. The reason this run is a favorite is because it is a wide open blue run that allows you to make big sweeping turns to test out your ski legs. Another reason this run is a favorite is the view from the top of the run. You can look out over Breckenridge to get the view of one of Colorado’s most historic towns while checking out some of the massive peaks that surround the town.
Keystone
Keystone is a great place to ski early season as it offers a few great options for beginners and experienced skiers alike. While you won’t find many black runs open this time of year, you will find a few blue runs open at Keystone as well as a number of green runs. If you are just learning how to ski, early season at Keystone is one of the best options in Summit County. For the beginner I recommend Schoolmarm. The upper and lower sections of this famous run are mild and long, providing ample time on skis for beginners to learn and practice their turns. For the more experienced skier, Spring Dipper is a great early season blue run that is steep enough to gain a little speed and check out the edges of your skis. Stay up to date on everything that is open and groomed at Keystone by clicking here.
Arapahoe Basin
Arapahoe Basin is typically the first ski resort to open in the state, which allows them to open more terrain sooner than many of the surrounding ski resorts. While the bottom half of the mountain is short and sweet, the top and the bottom combined offer a long and open run perfect for practicing some early season turns. The earliest run to open from top to bottom is Lenawee Face to Dercum’s Gulch. These two runs allow you to get the high-alpine skiing experience that A-Basin is famous for while staying on groomed blue trails. A-Basin is planning to open new expert terrain this year called The Beavers and Steep Gullies. Check out the map of the resort to see where this new terrain will open! Find the status of all of the terrain currently open by following this link.
Copper Mountain
Copper Mountain is the last resort in Summit County with early season skiing options. Just past the Frisco exits, this resort is a locals’ favorite. If you’re looking to get some turns at Copper, I recommend checking out Main Vein. This blue is a great run to cut your teeth on if you are looking to get off the greens and on to some more difficult runs. Check the status of all of the open lifts and terrain at Copper Mountain by clicking here.
While the options you have for ski runs are limited this early in the season, it is never too early to get out there and start building your ski legs. The Colorado ski season will be in full swing soon enough and you will want to be ready for when the resorts start dropping ropes and opening up more terrain. Make sure to do your snow dances in hopes of bringing some great early season storms before the holidays.

Sunday, December 15, 2019

FOX vs. RockShox: Mountain Bike Fork Guide

We often get asked, "What's the difference between FOX and RockShox forks?" It's a common question people have when shopping for a new mountain bike, and the answer isn't straightforward.
The vast majority of modern mountain bikes we sell are going to come equipped with one of their forks or shocks. Some riders are loyal to one brand based on personal experiences. Others have specific feel, performance, or aesthetic preferences. For ultra-picky riders, a bike's fork brand can be a major factor in their purchasing decision.
And yes, we know that there are other fork companies besides these two, such as DVO, Cane Creek, MRP, Ohlins, and Trust. But for today, we'll stick to FOX and RockShox, since they are the two dominant suspension manufacturers in the mountain bike industry.
So how do you understand the difference between FOX and RockShox forks and decide which is right for your bike?
We can't definitively answer whether one fork manufacturer is “better” than the other (sorry). Instead, this guide aims to explore the history of the two brands, the technology they use, and what features their forks offer. It will also consider World Cup race results and the brands' popularity among our customers.
To keep things simple, we'll focus on the most common forks that FOX and RockShox produce. Most later model year bikes offered in our inventory will come equipped with a fork detailed in this guide.

History

FOX Factory, Inc.
FOX came from the world of moto suspension. In the 1970s, long-travel suspension was revolutionizing the motocross industry, but the technology for achieving it was still developing. FOX's founder, Bob Fox, was an amateur motocross racer and a mechanical engineer. He saw a golden opportunity to enter the market. In 1974, he opened a small business distributing suspension components.
Bob Fox had a particular interest in designing an air spring shock that would help prevent bottom-outs and make adjusting spring rates easier. Drawings for his prototype ‘FOX AirShox’ shock were done by hand and he built the first shock in a friend’s garage using a mill and a manual lathe. After a year of development, the first production run of the FOX AirShox was ready in 1975. Fox sold 200 shocks that year.
Racers using the new FOX AirShox went on to win the AMA 500cc National Motocross Championship in 1976 and 1977. After these back to back championships, sales exploded to over 10,000 units and FOX was firmly established as a premier suspension company in the motocross world. FOX Factory, Inc. (often referred to in the industry as ‘Fox Racing Shox’) was incorporated in 1978.
The FOX AirShox (top left) and founder Bob Fox (bottom right) | Photos courtesy Fox Factory, Inc. 
Over the years, FOX has diversified into various other high-performance sports, including off-road racing trucks, road racing cars, road racing motorcycles, and snowmobiles. FOX made its first bicycle shock prototype in 1991 and entered the mountain bike market in 1992 with an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) rear shock produced for Cannondale. OEM partnerships with Specialized and Trek followed soon after.
FOX arrived relatively late to the mountain bike fork market and didn’t produce its first suspension fork until 2001. However, this first fork was immediately innovative due to its stiffer 32mm stanchions (other forks at the time were no larger than 30mm). This added rigidity came at the right time. Like motocross in the 1970s, mountain biking was beginning to go through its own long-travel suspension revolution and FOX was at the forefront.
Fox Tail vs. Fox Head
Many mountain bikers may be unaware that FOX (suspension) and Fox (apparel) are different companies. There's a reason the two brands have the same name. Bob Fox, founder of Fox Factory, Inc. (suspension) and Geoff Fox, founder of Fox Head Inc. (apparel) are brothers and both have a history of racing and developing motocross suspension and equipment. They were involved in each other’s businesses in the early years but eventually incorporated separately.
To differentiate between the two brands many will refer to Fox Factory, Inc. the suspension company as Fox Racing Shox or more colloquially, “Fox Tail,” and Fox Head Inc. the action sports apparel company as Fox Racing or “Fox Head.” Products are easy to differentiate by logos which use a foxtail (suspension) and a fox head (apparel).
RockShox Inc.
Like Fox, RockShox founder, Paul Turner got his start with motorcycles, which he raced as a teenager in the 1970s. By the time he was 18, he had started his own company selling aftermarket motorcycle engine parts. Turner quickly advanced to working as a factory mechanic for Honda’s pro motocross team and as a consultant for Honda R&D. He began racing triathlons and mountain bikes after moving to Northern California to work with Honda.
Paul Turner with an early RockShox RS-1
As a motocross rider, Turner was accustomed to plush suspension. Rigid mountain bikes felt harsh and archaic in comparison. He began working on a simple, modified, lightweight motorcycle fork which evolved into the first generation of RockShox products. In 1987, with the help of Keith Bontrager, Turner created a prototype mountain bike with front and rear suspension for an industry trade show.
The other half of Rockshox, Stephen Simons, was an entrepreneur and also a veteran motorcycle racer. In 1974, Simons worked for Moto-X Fox (Geoff Fox's company which originally distributed the FOX AirShox) with Bob and Geoff Fox, and he was involved in the design and testing of the first FOX AirShox. Simons went on to found his own company, Simons Inc., developing suspension modifications and front forks.
After building his first prototype, Paul Turner began building his suspension components in his garage using Simons Inc. parts. In 1989, Turner approached Stephen Simons to lend his manufacturing expertise to a bicycle suspension idea that became the genesis of the RockShox brand. Simons became the president of the new company that year.
Herbold's Championship-winning Miyata with an early RockShox fork.
The next two years were highly successful for RockShox. Turner brought Greg Herbold aboard as a RockShox test rider and company spokesperson. At the inaugural UCI Mountain Bike World Championships in 1990, Herbold became the first downhill world champion on a bike equipped with one of the first RockShox suspension forks and Ned Overend became the first Cross-Country World Champion riding a Specialized-branded RockShox fork. That same year, RockShox released its first production suspension fork called the RS-1.
The world's second-largest component company, SRAM, acquired RockShox in 2002. RockShox is currently part of SRAM Corporation.

Suspension forks

The vast majority of mountain bikes that you find for sale will come equipped with a FOX or RockShox fork on the list below. Different forks offer travel anywhere from 100mm to 180mm (measured in 10mm increments) depending on a fork's intended use. With few exceptions, most forks are available in 27.5" and 29" wheel versions. The sections below will explain other specific features in greater detail.
(Note: the information in this guide will apply to recent model year bikes and forks. Older products may have different specifications.)
FOX MTB forks
FOX fork models are named based on stanchion diameter. Forks are available in Rhythm, Performance, Performance Elite, and Factory trims (see the FOX Performance Hierarchy). Rhythm and Performance level forks use the FIT GRIP damper. Performance Elite and Factory level forks use the FIT4 or FIT GRIP2 dampers. (See FOX Dampers).
FOX 32
The FOX 32 is FOX’s standard XC fork. It uses 32mm stanchions to keep weight low. Travel: 100-120mm
FOX 32 Step-Cast
The 32 Step-Cast fork is lighter than the standard FOX 32. It has narrower lowers and a notable “step” at the bottom of the lowers to reduce material and weight. Travel: 100mm
FOX 34
The FOX 34 is FOX’s trail fork. It is one of the most popular trail forks on the market. It uses 34mm stanchions. In terms of weight and stiffness, it splits the difference between the FOX 32 and the FOX 36. Travel: 120-150mm
FOX 34 Step-Cast
The 34 Step-Cast is lighter than the standard FOX 34. It uses a notable “step” at the bottom of the lowers to reduce material and weight. It is comparable in weight to many XC forks but is stiffer due to the 34mm stanchions. Travel: 100-120mm
FOX 36
The FOX 36 is FOX’s enduro fork. It uses 36mm stanchions for greater stiffness. The Factory and Performance Elite level FOX 36s are available with the gravity focused FIT GRIP2 damper. Travel: 140-180mm
FOX 40 / FOX 49
The FOX 40 is FOX’s dual crown downhill fork. It uses 40mm stanchions for maximum stiffness. The FOX 49 is a FOX 40 designed for use with 29” wheels. The FOX 40 / FOX 49 is only available in Performance and Factory trim levels. Performance forks are OEM only. Travel: 180-200mm
RockShox MTB forks
For cross country, trail and enduro forks, RockShox offers both a higher-end and entry-level option to suit different rider needs and budgets. The main difference between higher-end and entry-level forks is the damper (see RockShox Dampers). Cross country forks are available in RL, RLC, Select, Select+, and Ultimate trims. Trail and enduro forks are available in RC, RCT2, RC2, Select, Select+, and Ultimate trims. (See the RockShox Performance Hierarchy.)
RockShox SID
The SID is RockShox’s high-end XC fork. It has 32mm stanchions and prioritizes light weight. It uses the Charger 2 damper. Travel: 100-120mm
RockShox Reba
The Reba is RockShox’s entry-level XC fork. It has 32mm stanchions and prioritizes light weight. It uses the Motion Control damper. Travel: 100-120mm
RockShox RS-1
The RS1 is a unique “upside-down” XC fork. This means the stanchions are at the bottom, which is opposite most single-crown forks. In theory, this can increase stiffness where the fork mounts to the bike, the point of highest leverage. The RS1 is named after RockShox’s first production fork. It has a full carbon chassis and steerer. It requires a front wheel with a proprietary RS1 specific “Predictive Steering” front hub. Travel: 100-120mm
RockShox Pike
The Pike is RockShox’s high-end trail fork. It uses 35mm stanchions for increased stiffness. It uses the Charger 2 or the Charger 2.1 damper. Travel: 120-160mm
RockShox Revelation
The Revelation is RockShox’s entry-level trail fork. It uses 35mm stanchions for increased stiffness. It uses the Motion Control or the Charger RC damper. Travel: 120-160mm
RockShox Lyrik
The Lyrik is RockShox’s high-end enduro fork. It uses 35mm stanchions like the Pike, but the stanchion walls are thicker to provide greater stiffness. It uses the Charger 2 or the Charger 2.1 damper. Travel: 150-180mm
RockShox Yari
The Yari is RockShox’s entry-level enduro fork. It uses the same 35mm stanchion chassis used by the previous generation Lyrik. It uses the Motion Control or the Charger RC damper. Travel: 150-180mm
RockShox BoXXer
The BoXXer is RockShox’s dual crown downhill fork. It uses 35mm stanchions. It uses the Charger 2 or Charger 2.1 damper. Travel: 180-200mm
RockShox Bluto
The Bluto is RockShox's fat bike specific fork. It’s based on the 32mm stanchion Reba chassis but widened to accommodate 26" fat bike tires up to 4.8” wide. It uses the Motion Control damper. It comes in RL with a lockout or RLT3 with three pedal modes. Travel: 80-120mm
Note: RockShox offers other budget-oriented forks (e.g., 30, Recon, Sektor, Judy) not described in this list. They are less common in our inventory, however, so they have been omitted.

Fork performance hierarchy

Both FOX and RockShox have various fork trims and use specific naming conventions to denote the performance these trims offer. Higher-end forks will cost more, but they generally offer lighter weight and/or better damper performance (see more about dampers).
FOX
The trim of FOX forks accompanies the model name to describe its performance level. E.g., the FOX 34 can come as a FOX 34 Rhythm, FOX 34 Performance, FOX  34 Performance Elite, or a FOX 34 Factory.
Entry Level: Rhythm
FOX Rhythm forks are original equipment (OEM) forks that only come on complete bikes and are generally not available to be purchased aftermarket. Rhythm forks use a FIT GRIP damper that is slightly less adjustable and less complicated. The lower legs are cast from aluminum to keep costs down.
Entry-Mid Level: Performance
Performance forks use a FIT GRIP damper. The cast lowers are magnesium, the same construction as the higher end forks.
Mid-High End: Performance Elite
Performance Elite forks use higher-end FIT4 or FIT GRIP 2 dampers. Performance Elite is functionally the same as Factory forks but the stanchions use a black finish instead of the gold Kashima coat used on Factory forks.
High-End: Factory
Factory is the highest level of FOX fork and it is priced accordingly. All models use higher-end FIT4 or FIT GRIP 2 dampers. Factory forks are recognizable due to the distinctive gold Kashima coating on the stanchions to reduce friction and increase wear life. Factory forks are also available in FOX special signature orange color.
RockShox
RockShox forks are offered in various trims within high-end and entry-level models. E.g., a RockShox Pike will be available as a Pike RC, Pike RCT3, Pike Select, Pike Select+, or Pike Ultimate.
For 2020 suspension products, RockShox has simplified its naming conventions. New forks are classified as Select, Select+, and Ultimate. Older forks are designated RC/RL or RCT3/RLC, which relates to their damping systems.
Entry Level: RC / RL / Select
RC forks are generally trail- or enduro-focused. They are OEM forks that only come on complete bikes and are generally not available to be purchased aftermarket. They come with external rebound and low-speed compression adjustment.
RL forks are generally cross-country-focused and offer rebound damping adjustment plus an open or lock compression setting that can be controlled by an optional remote.
Newer Select level forks will feature Charger RC or Charger RL dampers.
Mid-High Level: RCT3 / RLC / Select+
RCT3 forks are generally trail- or enduro-focused. They use the Charger 2 damper with a three-position lock-pedal-open compression adjust lever with low-speed compression adjustment in the open mode.
RLC are generally cross country focused. They add low-speed compression adjustment to the lockout and rebound adjustments.
Newer Select+ level Lyrik and Pike forks use the new Charger 2.1 damper.
High-End: Ultimate
Ultimate is RockShox’s newest top-end option using the new Charger 2.1 damper, as well as new low friction SKF seals and Maxima damping fluid to decrease stiction. Ultimate forks come in either an RCT3 or RLC version with the same adjustments described above, or a new RC2 version with high and low-speed compression damping adjustment as well as rebound. Ultimate forks are also available in various RockShox signature colors.

High-End: SID Ultimate Carbon / World Cup
The SID is the only model available in Ultimate Carbon (formerly called World Cup) trim. It is the premier cross-country fork in the SID range. It uses the same damper as the SID Ultimate/RLC but uses a carbon fiber crown to further reduce weight.

Dampers

The damper lives in the right fork leg of FOX and RockShox forks. Here, oil and valving controls the speed and behavior of the fork as it compresses and extends. As described in the Performance Hierarchy, different forks use different dampers depending on their trim. All dampers listed below are adjustable to suit rider preferences and terrain.
FOX
FIT stands for "Fox Isolated Technology."
FIT GRIP
The GRIP damper is fitted to more affordable models in the FOX fork range. It has a compression damping adjustment lever on the top cap. It’s based on FIT4 technology, but instead of a bladder, the damper cartridge uses a spring-loaded IFP (Internal Floating Piston) to prevent the mixing of air and oil. It is a simpler design than the FIT4, and it’s a bit heavier.
FIT4
FIT4 is one of FOX's premium cartridge dampers. It has a three-position compression adjust lever on the top cap with a climb, trail, and open (descend) mode. Low-speed compression can be fine-tuned in the open mode with a black knob in the center of the top cap lever. There is also a two-position remote lockout version available that uses a remote to switch between a climb and open mode. It uses a sealed design with a rubber bladder to compensate for displaced oil as the damper cycles through the travel.
FIT GRIP2
This is the damper used on FOX’s newest gravity forks (FOX 36 / FOX 40 / FOX 49). It’s similar in design to the entry-level FIT GRIP damper but it has much more adjustment. It offers high- and low-speed compression damping adjustment and independent high and low-speed rebound damping adjustment. It uses an IFP instead of a bladder but also has more advanced valve technology and various friction-reducing treatments not seen in the standard GRIP damper.
Live Valve
FOX Live Valve is an electronically controlled suspension system. It uses ultra-fast reacting sensors to automatically control and adjust the fork and shock. Sensors are strategically placed on the frame and wheels and they allow a Live Valve Controller to process data from the terrain to constantly adjust the suspension for maximum efficiency and control. Live Valve's default is closed — the equivalent of you running your shock and fork in the climb mode. The Controller only opens the suspension during an impact, and then switches back to firm after impact. Live Valve is currently only available on a few select, high-end mountain bikes.
RockShox
Motion Control
Motion Control is an entry/mid-level damper that comes with either a compression adjustment lever on the top cap or a remote lockout. Motion Control is an emulsion damper, which means the damping oil isn't separated from the air in the fork by an IFP or bladder. This is simpler and less expensive to produce. It functions well, but it can lead to less precisely controlled damping under more extreme use.
Charger RC / RL
Charger RC / RL is a version of the Charger damper that RockShox describes as 'cartridge-style' rather than a fully sealed cartridge damper. It is intended to split the difference between the Motion Control and Charger 2 damper, offering Charger damper technology in a more affordable package. It has adjustable rebound and adjustable low-speed compression (RC) or a remote lockout (RL).
Charger 2
Charger 2 is RockShox’s high-end damper. It's a fully sealed cartridge damper unit that uses a bladder to keep the damping oil isolated from the air. It's available in different versions depending on the application.
RC/RL/Select Charger 2 dampers have adjustable rebound and adjustable low-speed compression (RC) or a remote lockout (RL).
RCT3/RLC/Select+ Charger 2 dampers use a three-position compression adjuster with lock, pedal, and open modes (RCT3) or a remote lockout that uses a remote to switch between a lock and open mode (RLC). Low-speed compression can be fine-tuned in the open mode with a black knob in the center of the top cap lever.
RC2 Charger 2 dampers have adjustable high and low-speed compression damping plus rebound. This is only used on dedicated gravity forks (Lyrik and BoXXer).
Charger 2.1
This is an updated version of the Charger 2 damper seen on Ultimate forks and Select+ Lyrik and Pike forks. It changes some of the Charger 2 valving so there is less high-speed compression damping and more low-speed compression damping to make the fork ride higher in its travel and improve downhill performance.
It uses a new piston wear band inside the damper to manage oil flow better and a new rod seal from SKF to reduce friction by over 30% at the rebound shaft.
It is available in RCT3 and RC2 versions, with the same adjusters as the regular Charger 2 range.

Volume reduction

The resistance felt when compressing a fork is provided by an air spring in the left fork leg. This is an air chamber that compresses as the fork moves into its travel. All FOX forks and the majority of RockShox forks allow the user to control how progressive the ending stroke of the fork is by reducing the volume of the air spring.
It is an easy job for novice mechanics. To do this you must release the air from the fork and undo the top cap of the fork's air spring side leg using the correctly sized spanner or splined cassette tool. Volume reduction spacers are then attached to the underside of the top cap. You can put multiple spacers into a fork as they clip or thread together.
At a given air pressure, adding more spacers will increase the resistance to bottoming out, while removing spacers will do the opposite, making it easier to achieve full travel. Determining how many you need or want may require experimentation and will largely depend on your riding style, terrain, skill, speed, and preferences.
Volume spacers are specific to fork models and color-coded to match. RockShox refers to volume spacers as “Bottomless Tokens.”

Stanchion coatings

Kashima coat (left) / Fast Black with sag gradients on inside of left stanchion (right)
Fork stanchions are generally coated using some form of anodizing surface treatment. Stanchion coatings lubricate the stanchions and seals to reduce fork stiction and provide a hard scratch-resistance surface to prevent damage.
FOX Factory forks use a distinctive gold coating on the stanchions called a Kashima Coating. Kashima is a hard-anodized surface treatment created by Miyaka Company of Japan. It uses lubricating molybdenum disulfide deposited via electrical induction into the billions of micropores on the surface of hard-anodized aluminum for better lubrication and less abrasion and wear.
Many will select factory level forks simply because they enjoy the aesthetics of the gold Kashima coat. All other non-Factory FOX forks currently use a standard black stanchion coating. It is debatable whether Kashima actually improves fork feel or performance enough to be noticeable to the average rider.
All RockShox forks use a black stanchion coating called Fast Black. RockShox Stanchions also have sag gradients printed directly on the stanchions. This is unique to RockShox forks. These sag gradients make it quick and easy to determine sag without using a measuring tool like a ruler.

Stanchion diameter

In general, more cross country-oriented forks use narrower diameter stanchions to reduce weight. Most cross country forks use stanchions that are 32mm in diameter. More enduro oriented forks use thicker diameter stanchions that are 35-36mm in diameter to increase stiffness which improves performance in rough terrain. Trail oriented forks try to compromise between weight and stiffness. Most trail focused forks use stanchions that are 34-35mm in diameter.
FOX names its forks based on stanchion diameter (e.g., FOX 32 is a 32mm stanchion cross country fork), so it is easy to discern each FOX fork’s stanchion diameter and intended use. For RockShox forks, refer to the RockShox suspension fork list to determine what diameter stanchions specific fork models use.

Torque Cap end caps

End caps are the part of the bicycle wheel hub that comes in contact with the fork dropouts or rear dropouts of a frame. A wheel is held on to a fork or frame with an axle that goes through the end caps. For most mountain bikes this axle will come in the form of a threaded thru-axle.
Many current RockShox forks will accept Torque Cap end caps. Torque Caps were developed by RockShox. They are larger than standard end caps and have more surface area in contact with the fork. This is intended to improve front end stiffness.
Several hubs on the market can swap standard end caps with Torque Cap end caps (check with your hub manufacturer). FOX forks cannot accept wheels with Torque Cap end caps installed. RockShox forks compatible with Torque Cap end caps can still accept wheels with standard end caps.

Signature colors

Shiny Orange (left) / Gloss Silver (center) / BoXXer Red (right)
Most forks come with black lowers but FOX and RockShox currently offer unique signature colors so riders can personalize the look of their bikes.
FOX’s signature color is called Shiney Orange. It is only available for Factory-level forks.
RockShox currently offers BoXXer Red for the Lyrik Ultimate and BoXXer forks, SID Blue for the SID Ultimate, and Gloss Silver for the Pike Ultimate. Older models may have slightly different color options (e.g., BoXXer Red and Fluorescent Yellow for previous SID models).
Finally, we'd be remiss if we didn't mention the iconic yellow of RockShox's Judy SL from the 1990s. Although RockShox doesn't currently have a fork in its line-up in this eye-catching color, maybe someday it will be rebooted for a special occasion.

Service intervals

FOX only has one service interval for its products: after 125 hours of riding or annually, whichever comes first.
RockShox recommends lower leg service on forks after a maximum of 50 hours of riding. It recommends damper and spring service for most modern forks after 200 hours maximum.

World Cup race results

The UCI World Cup is the pinnacle of cross country (XC) and downhill (DH) mountain bike racing. The best riders in the world compete aboard the best gear. FOX and RockShox provide equipment and support for several professional riders and teams competing in these two disciplines. This is where suspension manufacturers develop their technology and prove out their designs.
The charts below show the win rate of fork manufacturers in the XC and DH disciplines over the last five years. It takes into account both the men’s and women’s fields and includes world championship races. Five years is far back enough to be relevant to most buyers looking at purchasing mountain bikes today.

XC World Cup wins show that RockShox has been the dominant XC fork manufacturer, winning 54% of races over the last five years. The RockShox SID has been one of the top XC forks since its inception in 1998. It also has the benefit of being the fork equipped on the Specialized Epic, one of the most successful XC race bikes of the modern era. RockShox has been a strong force in top-level XC racing since its first World Championship in 1990 with Ned Overend.
It is interesting to note that DT Swiss, whose suspension products are uncommon in the U.S., has a higher win rate than FOX. That this can largely be attributed to three riders — Nino Schurter, Yana Belomoina, Jolanda Neff. Nino Schurter is one of the most successful XC racers of all time and has scored numerous wins, World Championships, World Cup overalls, and Olympic Gold while using DT Swiss suspension. He and his team switched to RockShox in 2017 and he has contributed several wins and championships for RockShox as well. Yana Belomoina and Jolanda Neff won several races on DT Swiss forks on the way to their respective 2017 and 2018 World Cup overall wins.
DH World Cup wins show that FOX has been the dominant DH fork manufacturer, winning 68.2% of races over the last five years. FOX provides a large amount of factory support for many successful downhill racers and teams. Two of their most notable riders are Rachel Atherton and Aaron Gwin. Rachel Atherton has six World Cup overalls, and five World Championships, and Aaron Gwin has five World Cup overall wins. FOX also supports Greg Minaar, the male downhill racer with the most wins ever.
Recent wins for RockShox and Ohlins have largely come from two dominant young French riders — Amaury Pierron and Loic Bruni. They are the respective winners of the 2018 and 2019 DH World Cup overalls, and Loic Bruni has won four World Championships in the last five years. They will likely increase the win rates for their respective fork brands in future races.
This data also only accounts for wins and does not factor in podiums or any other results to create a more detailed and nuanced picture. This data also omits Enduro World Series results, another top-level race series.
For the average rider, pro racing may have little application to their everyday riding. Pros are exceptionally fast and skilled and they are able to push equipment much harder than most riders. Mountain biking is a sport where equipment matters, but riders make the biggest difference in results. Ultimately, the data here should not be taken as definitive evidence that any manufacturer is superior to another. But professional racing does show how products perform at the absolute limit, which can be powerful for influencing fans and inspiring brand loyalty. It is not uncommon for particular brands to enjoy popularity or become desirable due to the success of pro riders.

Popularity

Because The Pro’s Closet is the world leader in buying and selling used bikes, we have substantial data about what bikes are popular and what suspension forks they are equipped with. I dug into our sales for the last 12 months and looked at thousands of different bikes to analyze how FOX and RockShox are performing.
The data presented above does not indicate that one brand is "better." It simply shows how bike manufacturers and owners have chosen to equip their bikes over the last few years.
Forks sales by brand shows that we sell more bikes equipped with FOX forks, but the margin isn't exceptional at 9.4%. What we have seen over several years is that FOX and RockShox popularity is relatively even. It will fluctuate slightly, with one pulling ahead of the other from time to time but it will often flip-flop between the two.
It's clear that FOX and RockShox are dominant. The vast majority of other fork brands are only equipped on less than 1% of bikes we sell. The only standouts among this group are Cannondale and Suntour. The Cannondale Lefty has a small cult following and makes up 3.4% of fork sales, while Suntour has carved out a small market share with 2.4% of fork sales.
Fork sales by model examine how the most popular forks compare to each other and it shows that the FOX 34 is the most popular mountain bike fork by an overwhelming margin. It enjoys over 10% more sales than RockShox's trail forks, the Pike and Revelation. This also tells us that the trail bike category is by far our best-selling mountain bike category. FOX's enduro offering, the FOX 36, follows in third place. XC forks like the FOX 32, SID, and Reba enjoy fewer sales than trail forks. FOX and RockShox are fairly even in the XC category with the FOX 32 outselling the SID and Reba by only 1.2%
(Note: For Fork Sales by Model, certain RockShox models have been combined based on their intended use. This is because FOX offers a wide range of performance specs for the same model based on trim equivalent to the range RockShox covers using two separate models. E.g., a FOX 34 Rhythm is comparable to a RockShox Revelation RC while a FOX 34 Factory is comparable to a RockShox Pike Ultimate.) 

Final thoughts

Both FOX and RockShox make quality suspension forks. Though their approach to fork design varies slightly, they both produce forks that will perform well enough for the professional racer. And they have options affordable enough for the novice or recreational rider.
Ask any random rider out on the trail and they'll have their own preferences. For the last year, I've been riding the FOX 36 Factory on my enduro bike and FOX 34 Step-Cast Factory on my XC/trail bike.

The year before I rode the RockShox Lyrik RCT3 on my enduro bike and the SID RLC on my XC bike. I have swapped between brands several times, fairly seamlessly, and generally always had good results. In my experience, both brands are reliable, high-performing, and easy to service.
I'm riding FOX on my current bikes because I'm a sucker for gold stanchions. (But I love the silver legs of the latest Pike Ultimate.) I've come to favor the FOX 36 with the GRIP2 damper for enduro because of the large amount of high and low-speed compression and rebound adjustment. I like to tinker with settings to try and improve downhill performance. The newer Lyrik RC2 damper may be a good alternative. Riders less interested in tuning their forks may prefer a FIT4 damper or the RockShox equivalent which is easier to set up and requires less fiddling.
For XC racing next year, you will likely see me on a RockShox SID select. I don't need all of the tuning features for XC. For an XC race bike that is going to have huge mileage put on it for training, I want something simple and reliable that I won't need to fuss over. After spending time on various forks, I find I have come to prefer the look and feel of the SID and continue to come back to it for XC.

How to Wax Your Skis

The first measurable snow of the season made its way through Summit County this past week, dropping more than a foot of snow in some areas and prompting Arapahoe Basin to announce it will open for the first day of the season. Get your pass for the first ski day of the season! And now that old man winter is knocking at the door, it’s time to tune up your skis and snowboards in preparation for the fast approaching opening day of Summit County’s ski resorts.
How to Tune Your Own Skis
Sure you could take your skis or snowboard to the local wax shop and have them put a fresh coat of wax on your sticks or plank for you. But why do that when you can do the same thing in the comfort of your own home? Like a fly fisherman who ties his own flies knows, there is a sense of pride that comes with utilizing your own skills to enhance the sports you pursue.
What You’ll Need
A few tools are needed to wax your own skis. These include base cleaner or rubbing alcohol, wax, an iron, and a plastic scraper. When choosing a wax, you can choose from temperature-specific waxes or a universal wax. If you are looking for top performance, pick a temperature-specific wax that will suite the outdoor temperature during the time you plan to ride. I usually use a universal wax as it performs just fine for my needs in nearly all conditions. When choosing an iron, you can buy a waxing iron designed specifically for waxing skis from most ski shops or you can use an old clothes iron. Just be sure to label the old clothes iron so you don’t inadvertently try to use it to iron your favorite shirt! The plastic scraper can again be purchased from most ski shops and they come in all shapes, sizes, and prices.
Getting Started
The first thing you will want to do secure your skis to your workbench. If you are using a ski vise, tighten the vise around the center of the ski or snowboard. If you don’t have a vise, a couple of stacks of books placed under your skis or snowboard at either end of the binding works just fine. When waxing downhill skis, retract the ski brake by depressing the pedal, causing the brake arms to pop up, parallel with the ski. Use a strong rubber band and hook one brake arm and then take the rubber band over the top of the heelpiece of the binding and hook the other arm. This will keep the brakes out of the way while you work.
Clean the Base
Now you’ll want to clean all the old wax as well as any dirt or debris from the base of the ski using a clean rag moistened with rubbing alcohol or base cleaner. Wipe off any visible debris and old wax and allow to dry for around 20 minutes before applying wax.
Apply the Wax
Allow your iron to heat up. The iron should be hot enough to easily melt wax but not so hot that it is smoking. Once the temperature of your iron has stabilized, you can begin to drip wax on your skis or snowboard. Hold the chunk of wax to the iron and allow the melted wax droplets to drip onto the base while holding the iron around 2 to 4 inches above the base. You want to drip enough wax to cover the base of the ski or board almost completely.
Once you have the wax dripped onto the base place the iron on the base of the ski or snowboard and spread the wax over the entire base until a layer of wax coats the entire surface. Just like ironing a shirt, don’t hold the iron in one place for too long as this could case the base to blister. Make sure the wax melts and covers the entire base from edge to edge and tip to tail. If an area is still dry, apply more wax and smooth again.
Once the base is covered in a thin layer of wax allow it to completely cool for about 30 minutes to an hour. Don’t set your skis or snowboard outside to cool as the cold temperatures will push the wax back out of the pores in the base.
Scraping and Buffing
Once the wax has cooled, it’s time to move onto the scraping. Using a plastic scraper, scrape the base from tip to tail, removing excess wax in overlapping and continuous strokes. Continue scrapping until the base is nearly free of visible wax. Wax will remain in the pores of the base of your skis or snowboard.
Make sure to remove all wax from the metal edges of the ski or snowboard completely. Some scrapers have a notch cut into them to help with this process.
Next, buff the bottom of your base by using either a nylon brush or a scouring pad like a Scotch Brite pad.

Monday, December 9, 2019

Try Something New this Summer


As the snow starts melting and giving way to the warmer days of spring, we can’t help but dream about the blue-sky days of summer in Summit County. “Shorts weather” is an understatement, as the weather easily gets to a comfortable 80-85 degrees and higher during the summer, making perfect weather for stand-up paddle boarding or any number of water-based activities. The wildflowers are blooming bright in all kinds of beautiful colors and the breeze carries their perfume through the air to mingle with the sweet smell of pine needles. Hiking or mountain biking on any one of the dozens of local trails is one of the best things to do on a warm summer day. Indeed, summer is an excellent time of year to visit Summit County! This year as you plan your summer vacation to Summit County, consider trying new summer activity. Here is a list of some of our favorite activities and how to try them out this summer.
You must have been living under a rock if you didn’t know Summit County is an excellent destination for biking, hiking, and beer drinking on sunny porches. But we can’t blame you if you didn’t know Summit County is a great place to try stand up paddle boarding, sailing, and fly fishing among dozens of other activities.
Fly-fishing is a great activity to try if you have never had the opportunity to. Nothing beats watching your dry fly floating across the top of the water as a phantom trout rises to gulp your fly from the foam as you instantly react and set the hook by jerking your rod back hard enough to make the fish jump out of the water. Battling a big trout makes the sublime surrounding of the river melt away as you focus solely on wrestling the big fish on the end of your line. After a few minutes of fierce fighting, you finally get the monster close enough for your guide to net him. The picture you get of you holding a monster trout with a beautiful river stretching out behind you as the backdrop is one you will surely frame for your trophy wall. There are a number of ways to fly fish in Summit County. You can fish the Blue River through Breckenridge if you are looking for a quick trip to get your fishing fix or you can fish the tailwaters of Dillon Dam on the Blue River where some monster trout hide and feed on Mysis Shrimp, a unique fly to the area. We recommend hiring a guide to help you find the fish when fishing the bigger water like the Blue River. Our favorite guide service is Breckenridge Outfitters, located just across the street from our Main Street office. Another fun way to fly fish is to hike to an alpine lake where you can catch brook trout by the dozens surrounded by 13,000 and 14,000-foot peaks. One of our favorite lake hikes is Mohawk Lake.
Another great way to experience summer in the Rocky Mountains is to try your hand at paddle boarding or sailing. You’ll love the freedom of dipping a paddle in the water as you circle the shoreline of Lake Dillon in Frisco as you take in the incredible views of the surrounding peaks including the Ten Mile Range, Gore Range, and Grey and Torres Peaks. It may take a few minutes to find your balance, but once you do you’ll be cruising around the lake in no time. If you would like to give paddle boarding a try you can get started by reserving all the gear you need from the Frisco Bay Marina. If you would rather try your hand at sailing on Lake Dillon, you can sign up for an introductory sailing course at the Frisco Bay Marina as well. Click here to make reservations for sailing lessons.
Summer is an excellent time to get out and try something new! This summer come visit Summit County and give one of these great experiences a try. You never know, you may fall in love with the sport!

Ultimate Guide to Ski Rental Prices at Top Ski Destinations

Save Money on Your Next Ski Trip

Comparing prices for your ski vacation?  Look no further!
We know ski trips can be expensive, and lift tickets seem to go up every year.  TripOutside wants to help you save money on your next ski vacation, so we are focused on bringing you hacks to save money on your next ski vacation.  If you are planning a ski road trip, check out our Ultimate Ski Resort Road Trip!

How to Get the Best Deals

Ski Rentals

Ski and snowboard rentals can vary in price depending on where you are planning to hit the slopes.  In some destinations, ski rental costs can vary up to 70% between shops.  We have gathered ski and snowboard rental pricing at 20 major ski destinations.  Check out our helpful chart below, which shows the average prices by destination.  If you like it, please share it!
When you’re ready, book your ski rental quickly and easily at TripOutside.com.  We also have price comparison tools by destination so you can view all of the local shops’ pricing in one place, and then book online easily.
Find resort information, rental price comparison tools, and the best deals and discounts on ski rentals on TripOutside.

Top 20 Major Ski Destinations – Rental Pricing


Choose Your Destination Wisely

Choosing a resort that is more off the beaten path, rather than the big names like Aspen, Whistler and Vail, can help you save money, avoid long lift lines, and get more skiing or riding in.   If you are a beginner and just learning to ski, you definitely don’t need to start with the biggest, fanciest mountains.  The smaller resorts will have less expensive lift tickets, as well as accommodation, dining, etc.  While you are learning you will move slowly to more advanced terrain and will probably be sticking to the green runs for the first couple days.  Every resort has great green runs!

When to Go

In our experience, the best deals and discounts can typically be found in the early and late season.  Any time before Christmas is typically early season but it can be hit or miss for snow.  Our favorite time for ski vacations is anytime in March.  The snow has fallen all season, the mountains have a solid base by March, and resorts have deals running for late season.  March can also be one of the snowiest months, and many times is a bit warmer than January and February.

Learning to Ski

If it’s your first time on the slopes, check out this great article – The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Skiing.  You will find everything from learning ski lingo to how to ride a chairlift!

Friday, December 6, 2019

The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Skiing



Skiing for Beginners

Trying out a new sport can be both intimidating as much as it is exciting, especially when that new sport involves attaching yourself to two planks of fiberglass and using them to hurtle down a mountain at speeds of up to 60mph.
Nevertheless, skiing is a great way to stay fit during the winter months and let’s be honest…there’s few problems in life that being in a mountain range doesn’t solve.
In this guide, I am going to take you through all you need to know about skiing to help you prepare for your first day on the slopes.
I’ll be covering everything from what to wear, to how to navigate the mountain and more. So, sit down, grab yourself a cup of tea and get ready to learn all about skiing.

A Brief History of Skiing

Skiing has a history dating back around 8000 years, though skiing as a sport is a much more modern invention. The first half of the 19th century saw the first public skiing competition in Norway, with the first skiing clubs forming shortly afterwards.
In 1924 we saw our first winter Olympics held, which coincided with the formation of the International Ski Federation.
Today, there are 5561 ski resorts open across the globe which are comprised of almost 60,000km of downhill slopes and over 22,000 ski lifts.
When you consider backcountry terrain in addition to this, the possibilities can be pretty much endless when it comes to your options for chasing fresh snow.

A Little About the Lingo

Before we get started, I wanted to run through a couple of terms you’re likely to hear both in this guide and while you’re on the mountain. When I first started skiing and got chatting to some locals, I thought they were speaking another language at times, especially when they were discussing ‘gnarly chutes’ and ‘sending hard’.
It’s safe to say I was a little oblivious to the ski talk, so wanted to enlighten you with a few of my favorite sayings as well as useful ‘ski’ words to help you out on the slope. This list is by no means exhaustive, but it will give you a good basis for understanding.

Après

Frankly, one of the most important and familiar words on the slopes. Deriving from the French word for after; après is the term we use to describe the drinking and parties that go on at the end of the day once the slopes are closed.

Carving


Not just for snowboarders, carving is the art of using the very edges of your ski to make controlled turns down the slope. Once you reach this level of skiing, you’ll be far beyond the beginner phase. You’ll be able to clearly see when someone has been carving the mountain as there’ll be two very thin perfect lines in the snow, where the edges of the ski have been digging in.

Corduroy

A word used to describe the freshly groomed lines on ski runs first thing on a morning. The lines make it look like corduroy trousers. There’s nothing quite like hitting some fresh corduroy after a night of snowfall. Packed powder is pretty awesome.

Couloir

A couloir is a narrow chute that usually has rocks at either side of it and they’re definitely tailored to the expert skiers. One of the most famous couloirs has to be Corbet’s in Jackson Hole. It begins with a 20ft drop off the top of the mountain into some extremely steep and challenging terrain. This year, during the annual ‘Kings and Queens of Corbet’s’ competition hosted by Redbull, someone actually skied the couloir on a sit ski.

Crud

A skier’s worst nightmare. This is icy and hard packed snow. If someone tells you a run is cruddy, steer clear, especially as a beginner.

Gnarly

One of my favorite words to hear on the ski slope. The word gnarly is used to describe anything and everything that’s remotely dangerous or difficult on the slopes – “bro that run was gnarly!”

Groomers

The groomers are the runs that are groomed, simple hey?!

Liftie

You may hear people on your ski trip talk favorably of the ‘lifties’ in the resort. These are the guys and gals who operate the chairlift, they’re super fun to talk to, love their easygoing job and will be more than willing to help you out the first few times you load.

Moguls

Moguls are bumps of snow purposely left on the runs to challenge your skiing ability. I don’t recommend attempting them as a newbie, but as your skills progress and if you want to challenge yourself, these are great to practice on. Some skiers live for the mogul runs.

Park Rat

A word used to describe skiers and snowboarders who spend all their days in the terrain park and don’t venture off anywhere else.

Piste and Off Piste

The word ‘piste’ derives from France and refers to all of the groomed slopes you see on the mountain. The term off-piste is used to describe the rest of the mountain; from the ungroomed chutes that hang off runs all the way to backcountry terrain that is often located outside the ski boundary.
When skiing in North America, they tend to use the phrase piste and off-piste a little differently. North Americans usually class off-piste skiing as solely anything that is outside of the ski boundary.

Powder


Powder is the holy grail of snow. Skiers flock to resorts on a powder day well before first chair to get in line early and get some fresh lines. Some people may even be referred to as powder hounds; those who seek the powder no matter what. I myself have been known to take 12-hour detours, mid roadtrip, to chase fresh snow on a powder day.

Ripper

A ripper is a person who simply ‘rips up the mountain’ or, more simply, is an excellent skier who isn’t afraid to ski fast and hard, yet remains in complete control. When you see kids on the slope who are particularly good, you’ll likely hear them referred to as “little rippers”.

Ski Boundary

Though not really a slang word either, I wanted you to know what it means to be inside and outside of the ski boundary.
Some resorts in North America pride themselves on having a lot of ‘wild’ terrain that’s actually in bounds of the ski resort. When you’re within the ski boundary, you can be sure that avalanche mitigation techniques have been employed and that ski patrol will come rescue you, should you find yourself in a less than favorable situation.
There’re many signs all across the resort that will inform you if you’re about to leave the safety of the ski resort and head into the side or backcountry.

What to Wear When Skiing


With your first day on the slopes finally booked, you will need to start thinking about exactly what gear you’ll need to ensure a successful and fun time on the mountain. In this section of the article I am going to go head to toe (literally) on absolutely everything you’ll want to wear. We also recommend checking out TripOutside.com as they know all the best ski rental places.

Helmet

I would say that as a beginner, your helmet is the most important piece of ski equipment and you should be prepared to spend a fair few bucks on it. While some items we discuss here can be second hand, such as clothing, I don’t recommend it for a helmet. You don’t know what kind of falls people have got themselves into or if the helmet is damaged or not.
A new helmet is an absolute essential in any beginner’s ski kit.
Plus, as a beginner you’re likely going to be taking a few tumbles and it’s better to be safe than sorry; I’ve seen my fair share of people tomahawk without a helmet and it looks pretty nasty.
So, what are some of the most popular helmet brands to choose from?
If cost is a deciding factor, brands like Giro are more affordable and Smith is likely the brand you will see in literally every ski shop you walk into. Smith helmets are my go-to recommendation for beginners as price wise you can find them from as cheap as $100, all the way to $300 or more.
Many newer helmets are now equipped with MIPS technology too for a small additional cost – which in my opinion is worth it.
MIPS stands for Multi-directional Impact Prevention System and is comprised of an interior layer that rotates up to 5mm in the event of a fall to reduce the rotational impacts on your head. Representatives for MIPS have personally told me that having a MIPS equipped helmet reduces the impact of a blow to the head by 30%.
I personally opted for the Smith Vantage MIPS after demoing it on mountain and experiencing that added later of protection after I took a tumble.
Demoing is a great way to try gear before you buy it and several vendors will likely attend your local mountain periodically throughout the season.

Goggles


Unfortunately, the color of your goggles isn’t all about matching your outfit choice (sorry everyone). There’s a lot of science that goes into making every pair of goggles you see on the slopes.
Each lens is specially designed to let in a certain amount of light depending on the filter that you choose; if it’s sunny, you’re going to want to have less light let through the goggle’s lens so that you don’t strain your eyes.
On overcast and snowy days, you will want much more light to enter the lens so you can see where you’re going. As a beginner you should look at investing in both a storm lens as well as something for bright conditions.
Contrast is also a major factor when it comes to choosing the perfect goggle.
There’s nothing worse than being unable to see bumps in the snow on a whiteout day, especially as a beginner. This is why a personal favorite of mine are the Oakley Prizm lenses. They enhance the natural contrast you see in the snow, no matter the conditions, helping to minimize those unexpected falls. I swear by Hi-Prizm Pink on a powder day! Here’s a sample of the difference you see when wearing Prizm technology.
When it comes to changing lenses however, as much as I love my Oakley goggles, I find the lens change to be a little frustrating and it can take anything up to 5 minutes to switch them out. Especially when I’m in a rush and it’s all fingers and thumbs.
If you want a goggle that has a high-quality lens, and a quick lens change is your primary concern, the anon goggles are incredible. Their lenses are magnetic and you can switch them in seconds… even as a newbie! They’re also a much cheaper alternative to Oakley.
When I was choosing my first pair of goggles, one thing that I really struggled with was the fit. Everything I tried pressed on my sinuses and it felt like I couldn’t breathe. If you have this issue, I recommend trying out the Oakley Fall Line as they have a wider nose. If you have a smaller face, the Flight Deck XM or Asian Fit goggles tend to work best.
A pro-tip too is to choose the same brand of goggles as your helmet. It’s not essential, but they are designed to work with each other.

Base Layers

When you’re new to skiing, you’ll quickly discover that it is one heck of a workout and, chances are, unless you’re roaming around a resort that regularly falls below zero, you may not need a thick base layer. I rarely wear more than a thin base layer and my jacket on most days and in my day to day life, I’m usually the type of person that always complains that they’re cold.
When shopping for your base layer though, I do highly recommend investing in merino wool as opposed to cheaper, synthetic options. It naturally wicks sweat and has anti-microbial properties to curb the stink! It will also keep you that little bit warmer on the cold days. You can learn more about the benefits of merino wool here.

Outer Layers

Skiers have a plethora of options available to them when it comes to their outerwear, far more than snowboarders in my opinion. I personally prefer baggier styles as I like to have room when I’m bending my knees but the tighter ‘Jetset’ style is popular amongst my skiing friends and they find the stretchy material super comfortable and easy to move in.
The big question amongst skiers and riders is usually when it comes to Gore-Tex and whether or not it’s worth the money. In case you don’t know, Gore-Tex is a type of waterproof and breathable material that has become the gold standard for outdoor gear.
I was discussing this topic with a friend who skis regularly in the west coast and his opinion is that you don’t particularly need Gore-Tex unless you’re skiing in super wet conditions or heading out to the backcountry on the regular. Nevertheless, I’ve had some less than happy days on the slopes where my butt has gotten a little too wet from a snowy chairlift seat.
With that said, if you’re just starting out and are on a budget, you’ll likely not reap all the benefits Gore-Tex has to offer until you start ripping out of bounds. Instead, go with something a little cheaper, with a minimum waterproof level of 10,000mm and use the extra cash you saved to invest in some lessons!
In terms of brands, The North Face have some affordable options for outerwear, particularly towards the end of the season. My most recent pair of pants cost just 90 bucks and despite them not being Gore-Tex there’s only been a few days where I’ve really felt it and I’m approaching a 90-day season for this year.

Boots


Boots probably come in joint first position with your helmet when it comes to prioritizing your investments with ski wear. I wore poorly fitted boots my first few times on the slopes, and let me tell you, it was nothing short of grim.
Ski boots tend to cost more than snowboarding boots but definitely last a lot longer. A friend of mine just replaced her ski boots after 10 years!
My number one recommendation would be to head to a boot fitter and try on as many brands and styles as you can so you can make an informed choice. Insoles are also a lifesaver, especially if you have high arches and Superfeet are my go-to brand as a secondary choice to custom orthotics.
Before I wore insoles, I would get the worst cramp in my arches to the point that it would shoot up my leg. If I’d have known that 50 bucks was all that stood between incredible pain and total bliss, I would’ve purchased them much sooner.
Many boot fitters can now heat mold your boots for an even snugger and more customized fit.
Pricewise, I have seen boots range from $300 to over $1000 depending on the level of customization and the brand.

Accessories


I wanted to take a quick paragraph to explain a couple of my go-to accessories that you may not think about when you’re first ready to head out to the slopes. I wish I had both these items on my first day!
Buff
Buff is a brand of multifunctional neck/head warmers that you will see on practically everyone on the slopes. They can be worn countless ways, are quick drying and really protect your face on days where it’s snowing sideways and the wind is blowing a hard gale. They also come in every design imaginable.
The only downside I’ve found to it is when they get super wet (think rainy, spring conditions) it can get a little difficult to breathe.
Socks
The first time I went skiing I thought I could get away with wearing regular socks, because frankly, paying upwards of $25 for one pair of socks made my heart sink a little bit. After investing in a few pairs of solid ski socks over the years, let me tell you, they’re definitely worth the extra cash.
Good ski socks are thin, yet keep you warm and have added support in all the important places such as your ankles, heels and toes. When you’re wearing new ski boots this creature comfort is totally worth it, it’s amazing what an extra layer of material does for comfort.
Ski socks are usually made from merino wool or similar synthetics. So, like your base layers, they will wick sweat, dry quick and don’t smell bad. Even after a solid day of shredding the mountain.

Understanding the Slopes

Each and every ski resort has a grading system which ranks the difficulty of the slope you’re about to ride. There’s some variation between continents and the biggest difference is the colors associated with the runs in North America. In this section I will run through all you need to know about the different categories you will encounter on the slopes.
Slopes can be measured in degrees or a gradient percentage. For reference, a 100% gradient would be the equivalent of a 45° angle.
One thing you should know is that the slope will be rated based on its most difficult part, so even if it’s only steep for a small portion of the run, it will be rated on its steepness at that point. In addition to this, every mountain grade their slopes based on the other runs around that specific slope and on that resort as a whole, so you may find that a black run at a smaller mountain such as Cypress in Vancouver will be a lot more mellow than a black run at bigger and gnarlier resorts such as Whistler Blackcomb or Alta Snowbird.

Green

green slope
Green slopes are featured in most resorts across the globe. Though in Europe the green slopes tend to be a little more mellow than some greens in North America.
Greens are often referred to as the ‘bunny hill’, which is a wide open, short and mellow slope ideal for beginners such as yourself. In Europe, a green slope is usually between 0-11° or 0-20% gradient. In North America the gradient is said to go up to 14° or 25% gradient. Personally though, I have skied some ‘green’ runs in North America that have gone up to 18° (according to my ski tracker that is).
Greens in some extreme resorts like Jackson Hole, are surprisingly mellow. I myself would class them all as longer bunny hills to be fair. If you’re learning in a place like Jackson, there’s a huge jump from green runs to blue. However, on the brightside, once you can ride blues at such a resort, blues in other places will look far less scary.
NOTE: Some North American resorts, such as Mammoth Mountain for example, have green/black runs. These are some of the slightly harder green runs; not quite a blue, but not quite as easy as most greens. These slopes are perfect for practicing your technique during your first few days.

Blue

blue slope
Blue runs are generally intermediate type runs, but in Europe and most of the world, the blue run is the sign for an early intermediate; the gradient being around 20-30% – an 11-17° angle.
In North America however, the blues can be much steeper. The general consensus is that blues in North America typically have a gradient of 25-40% or a 14 to 22° angle. From my personal experience, using a number of ski trackers and skiing countless blues in resorts, however, I would say a ‘solid’ blue is around 24° especially in the west coast of the USA.
In some resorts like Jackson, I’ve been on blue slopes that have hit an angle of 30°, though only for a very short period of time.
North America also features several resorts that have either ‘double blue’ runs, or blue/black runs; which depict a black diamond inside a blue square. They can be compared to the ‘red’ runs you see in Europe and the rest of the world which we discuss below. Examples of resorts that have such runs are Jackson Hole, Mammoth Mountain and Winter Park in Colorado. These runs are the perfect way to push your learning curve once you hit intermediate level skiing.

Red

red slope
Red runs aren’t seen in North America, but are super common in Europe and other parts of the world such as Japan. A red run defines advanced intermediate terrain and could see you hitting slopes with a gradient of anything from 30-45% or 17 to 24° and above.
Red runs are not for the faint hearted and can feature narrow areas, moguls (bumps) and steep sections that some resorts may even consider to be ‘black diamond’ terrain.
I would recommend not attempting a red run until you have mastered linking your turns and can control your speed comfortably. Practicing the ‘pizza wedge’ or ‘snow plow’ as it’s often referred to, wouldn’t be too successful on these types of runs and it could result in injury.

Black Diamond

black diamond slope
Back when I was first learning to ski, my first black diamond was nothing short of a humbling experience.
I went into the run feeling pretty confident that I could handle the turns and control my speed, yet balancing on these runs takes a lot of skill and you need to ensure you’ve perfected your technique so that you don’t lose control; it’s safe to say, I went flying…literally.
I don’t want to put you off trying black diamonds, once you’ve nailed your skillset, I just want to make sure you know that the black runs are something that beginners should be rushing into.
Black Diamond runs in North America can be any run that’s over 21° or a 40% pitch; having said that, many of the resorts I have been to in the west coast in particular, are far steeper than this.
In Europe, black diamond is the highest level you can go and usually covers terrain that is 24° and higher, or a 45% pitch.
No matter where you are in the world, you should only head onto these black runs if you are fully confident of your skiing ability. In other words, as a beginner you’re better off steering clear of these gnarly runs.

Double Black Diamond

double black diamond slope
North America has another category for it’s particularly steep runs. These can be chutes, have tight trees and are usually slopes with a pitch of 26° and higher, though I am yet to see a double black which is that mellow.
Take for example, Aspen Highlands in Colorado. Their famous highlands bowl has a plethora of double black runs awaiting those who take the grueling 30-minute ridge climb up there. The runs range from 38° to an incredible 48° and are not for the faint hearted.
It’s worth mentioning that on terrain as steep as this, there is also a major avalanche risk, even when you’re inside the ski boundary.

Extreme Terrain


Some North American resorts also have runs that are so risky that they’re defined as ‘extreme terrain’ and should only be attempted by very talented experts.
Such runs can be found in the likes of Aspen, Steamboat Springs and Boise. Narrow chutes and cliff drops are highly likely on these runs and they should be avoided by beginners.
The terrain is usually clearly marked so you don’t end up wandering onto the run. They’re also usually accessed by one small opening in the ski boundary or gate too, so it’s particularly hard to find yourself on an extreme run by ‘mistake’.

The Terrain Park (Orange)

terrain park
Terrain parks are often always orange in each of the ski resorts and are separated into different abilities; S, M, L and XL. You will usually see the rating of the terrain park in black letters inside the orange sign.
I would highly recommend mastering some of the basic skills of skiing before venturing off into the terrain park; even if you’re only hitting small features. Confidence and experience on your skis, as well as good balance and control will be your saving grace when it comes to attempting jumps, flips, 360’s and jibs.
Once you’re feeling confident on your skis, the terrain park can be a fun place to spend a day or two; there’s usually a lively atmosphere and many skiers and boarders there to cheer you on in your endeavors.

Renting Gear


Once you arrive at your ski resort of choice, you will need to think about renting gear. Most mountains have some kind of package where you can buy your lessons, lift tickets and gear rentals for one set price, but it may be worth shopping around – especially if you plan on skiing for a few days.
There’s usually an abundance of shops in the ski resort village that have rentals available which work can out cheaper than renting directly off the mountain.
Another benefit of this is that you will also have the opportunity to sit down the day before your ski lesson and really think about how your boots are fitting, if the bindings are set correctly (don’t worry, the sales associates do this for you) and that you have the correct size skis, without feeling like you’re in a complete rush.
As a reference, here is what you will be given as part of your rental package:
Skis – Obviously! These should stand somewhere between your shoulder and your chin. The smaller they are, the easier they will be to ride on.
Bindings – These are how your feet stay attached to the skis, they will already be installed onto your rental ski, but the rental associate will need to change your DIN setting.
Your DIN setting is calculated by measuring your height and weight, so be sure to head to the rental place with this information to hand, as not all locations have access to scales and a way to measure your height.
The number on your DIN settings will basically control how much forward falling and twisting force is required in order for your bindings to release you from your skis. Put simply, if you fall, you want your skis to pop off, the DIN controls this.
Poles – You will be given poles but most likely won’t need to use them, especially for your first lesson. With the kind of terrain you will be skiing during day one, poles will only get in your way.
Helmet – If you’ve not already purchased a helmet (understandable if you’re a first timer and you don’t even know if you’ll like the sport) you will also be able to get one as part of your gear rental. The rental associate will be able to discuss the fit and size with you, but you will want it to be snug without hurting your head once it’s on.
I’ve been a victim of tightening my helmet too much in the early days, it kind of hurt and it left a lovely mark across my forehead, which just screamed beginner – if my skiing skills at the time didn’t already!

What to Expect on Your First Lesson

You’ve got the clothes and you’ve rented your gear, now it’s time to head for the slopes! For first timers, I always recommend booking a full day as opposed to a half day. The difference in price is minimal and you get so much more value from spending a full day with an instructor on the mountain.
Some mountains even do multi-day workshops which are the ideal package for beginners and will see you progressing in no time at all!
On the day of the lesson you should plan to arrive at the base fairly early. If the lesson starts at 9am, then be there at around 8-8:15am to get signed in, collect your lift tickets and get over to the meetup point.
I know it may seem like overkill arriving this early, but it really helps to not be rushing around on your first day. Being organized and having a calm and collective attitude will help so much once you’re on the slopes.
In addition to this, you’re not the only one who will be having lessons, especially if it’s a weekend, there’s going to be a lot of crowds…and a lot of standing in line.
If you’ve chosen to rent your gear directly from the mountain, rather than from a third-party supplier, I would aim to arrive even earlier. Queues at the rental desk are usually long and chaotic, especially in high season and you could be waiting around for a while.
I still remember back to my first skiing lesson; I rocked up about 20 minutes before it was due to start, naively thinking that was ample time. I ended up extremely flustered and on the verge of meltdown because I’d not left enough time to fill out the forms, collect my gear and attempt to find my group’s meeting point. They thankfully ended up waiting for me (some resorts don’t always do that) – but it took away from the rest of the group’s time with the instructor and being tardy is never a good first impression!
As a first timer you will likely be taken to a very small section of the beginner area, usually by the magic carpet, and the instructor will run through some of the basics with you to help you get started. This will include getting in and out of your skis, walking up the mountain in your skis – it’s more of an awkward sidestep – and practicing the snowplow which will help you to stop on the super mellow terrain.
They’ll likely also have a discussion about falling and how skiers don’t tend to fall as much as snowboarders do on their first day, they may even make a fun game out of whoever falls the most on the day, because there’s nothing wrong with a bit of healthy competition on the mountain!
On my first day, I was told if I fell more than three times, I had to buy my instructor a beer at the end of the lesson. If I fell more than four, I had to buy drinks for the whole group. That certainly kept me on my feet on day one!
Once you’ve gone through some of the basic skills, you’ll also be taught the art of turning before the instructor takes you for a ride on the magic carpet or other chairlifts.
From there, the instructor will have you lapping small, easy runs to asses everyone’s skill level and give you all pointers. There will be some people who just pick it up right away and are a natural to skiing; if you’re one of those lucky ones, you may find that in the afternoon you get bumped up a level to help develop your skillset further and quicker.
Once the day is over, I can guarantee you’re going to be tired. I completely recommend taking a dip in the hot tub at your accommodation and definitely stretching off, whether it’s pre or post après drinks.
This is because the day after your first lesson your whole body is going to be VERY sore. You’ll quickly discover that you had muscles you never even knew about. Even if you’re in relatively good shape already, you’ll be using completely different muscle groups to what you do in your day to day life and it’s going to have an impact. Embrace it though, it’s all part of the learning process and aching after a day on the slopes sure does make you feel good!

Riding the Chairlift


As a newbie to skiing, riding the chairlift can certainly be one of the most daunting parts to prepare for. When you’ve never done it before, all kinds of thoughts can run through your head about successfully loading and offloading the chair without causing too much chaos.
The great news is that as a skier, you do have it easier than snowboarders and you will find that it’s far easier for you to learn to load and offload than it is for them.
In this section I want to briefly discuss the different types of chairlifts you will come across on the mountain. As part of your lessons, you will be taught how to ride the lifts, so don’t panic! If you ever encounter a lift type that you’re not too familiar with, you can always ask the friendly ‘lifty’ for assistance on how to load and unload that particular chair.
On some of the newer lifts, they can even slow the chair down for you on your first few times until you get used to it. This YouTube video is the perfect accompaniment to this section of the guide and takes you through loading and offloading beginner chairlifts.

The Magic Carpet

Depending on the resort you choose to learn in, the magic carpet is likely one of the first types of lift you will encounter on the mountain as a beginner. It basically looks like a conveyor belt that travels up the smaller hills; sometimes it’s open and sometimes it’s covered. Loading the magic carpet is relatively easy, though it may feel a little strange the first time around.
Your skis will grip on to the carpet, feel free to slightly bend your knees for balance and support. When you reach the top, simply wait until your skis are around half way off the carpet then ski away. If you have your poles with you, be sure to hold them in one hand.

Regular Chairlifts; Doubles, Quads, Six/Eight Seaters


The standard chairlifts come in a wealth of different shapes, sizes and speeds.
Some of the older two seaters don’t have a bar on them, which I found a little scary at first. If you find yourself on such a lift, just be sure to sit back and you will be fine.
Some newer, high speed lifts have become very high tech and feature heated seats and covers. They even automatically raise so all you need to worry about is hopping off. I’ve even ridden lifts with built in music.
Unfortunately, the chairlift is the place where you’re most likely to fall when first starting out. It’s just a practice thing and you’ll soon get used to getting off at just the right moment.
My advice when getting off the chairlift is to look forward, keep your knees bent and weight centered over the skis. If you’re carrying poles, make sure they’re both in one hand and don’t have the ropes attached to your wrists. As you leave the lift, refrain from doing the pizza wedge. Keep your skis parallel. That way you won’t knock the skis of anyone else you’re sharing the lift with. If necessary, you can ask the liftie to slow the chair down.

T-bar

The T bar is still super popular in certain parts of Europe but if you’re skiing in North America, they tend to be few and far between and usually lie in intermediate to advanced terrain. Nevertheless, it’s great for you to know what to expect should you encounter one.
The T-bar is designed to be used in pairs and this will be your saving grace when using it. Having one person on either side of the bar will help with your balance and it will be easier to use. It’s also not designed to be sat on, let it come up behind you, place your hand on the middle pole and let it guide you up the mountain!

Rope Tow

The rope tow is fairly easy for skiers to use but can be intimidating, especially at first as it may jolt you and you could lose balance. Rope tows sometimes are literally just a rope which you grab onto, and other times they have a short handle sticking out for you to grab. Rope tows only tend to get difficult if it gets steep and you’re not wearing gloves with a good grip. If you’re thinking of visiting a resort that uses rope tows, be sure to stock up on some high-quality gloves!

Button Lift

I would say that the button lift is one of the easiest drag lifts for skiers to use. As the lift comes by, pass the bar between your legs with the small button/base plate resting on your butt and lean back. Don’t try to sit on the plate as it wont work, just lean back and let the lift do its work. You’ll also need to relax your body as much as possible. If you’re stiff and you hit a bump, you’re more likely to fall. The more you practice riding the button lift, the more natural it will become. You’ll be a pro in no time!

Skills That Will Get You Through Day One and Beyond

There’re obviously a few key skills that will help you with your skiing endeavors. Some of them are skiing specific skills and others are more about your mindset on the mountain which I feel will really help you progress into a talented skier.

The Snow Plow

Very much a skiing specific skill; the snow plow or pizza wedge as it’s commonly referred to will help you to control your speed until you can comfortably do parallel turns and stops. You will be taught this maneuver on your first day on the mountain. However, if you want to learn about it beforehand or want to refer back to it at a later date, I recommend this video.

Overcoming the Mental Challenges

Skiing can feel pretty scary, especially when it’s a bluebird day and you can see for miles and miles. You can sometimes feel a little overwhelmed and if you look straight down the run you can definitely psych yourself out and talk yourself out of doing a run.
Don’t listen to that voice in your head!
A good piece of advice if you get scared is to not look directly down the run to the ski village that is miles beneath you. Instead, pick a focal point to the side of the run, such as trees, and focus on that when you’re coming down the hill. Then, as you turn, focus on a specific point on the other side.
You will see the gradient of the run as you do this and it will help you to feel less afraid, especially if it’s only mellow.
If you’re above the tree line, find another focal point such as a cliff or a rock. You can even focus on another skier and follow their line. Obviously if they’re hurtling straight down the mountain without turning, don’t choose them. Before you know it, you will have confidently made multiple turns without even thinking about it and could be half way down the run. You can then use this as motivation to continue down the mountain.
Lapping the same runs over and over again is also a great way to overcome the doubt/mental challenges you may face when skiing for the first time. If you get down a run once without falling, great! Do that same run a few more times to desensitize yourself to the run and you’ll gain a lot more confidence.

The Importance of Rest Days


Though not a skill directly related to skiing, I wanted to remind you to take some well needed rest days when you’re beginning your skiing journey. It’s easy to become caught up in wanting to practice every single day especially if you only have a week or two in a resort but going hard and fast like this is going to ware you down and could result in injury.
When I was learning to ski there was a lot of difference in opinion around this topic. Some people would tell me that the only way to improve was to be on the mountain on a daily basis, but I quickly found this became exhausting and that it actually hindered my progress.
You’re going to have some days where you ski extremely well, and then the next you may not do as good. This is completely normal and from my own personal experience, I found if I was skiing 3 to 4 days in a row and then had a bad day, it really hit my confidence and I became frustrated that I “couldn’t ski anymore”.
What was actually happening is that I was tired, I began to experiment and found that having one day on the slope and one day off actually meant that every time I was on the mountain I would improve on the previous time I had skied. As I got more confident and comfortable on the slopes, I began to ski 2 and 3 days in a row.
I recommend that you experiment with your rest days, see what works for you, and I guarantee you will see results!

Patience

Finally, one of the most important steps of your skiing journey has to be patience. You may learn quicker than some people and others may learn quicker than you. Don’t beat yourself up and remember that everyone started where you are today – even the pros! Trust that you will get to where you want to be in time with lots of patience and hard work and just enjoy being on the mountain for what it is.

A Quick Note and Thanks to Our Ski Patrol


They are the heroes of all our ski resorts, these are the guys and gals who keep our slopes safe and are our first point of call should an accident occur on the mountain.
They help with avalanche mitigation, first aid, rescues and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. They’re working hard on the mountain early in the morning before you’re even up for breakfast and are usually the last ones off it once they’ve checked everyone is down safely at the end of the day.
Ski patrollers are very friendly and are always willing to help you out on the slopes, even if you just need pointing in the right direction – don’t be afraid to just ask. You can easily spot them as they often are wearing bright red jackets with a white cross on them.
If you see any patrollers while you’re out on the slopes, give them a friendly hello, a high five or even buy them a drink to thank them for their service (once they’ve got off shift of course). They usually have great stories to tell and come from all corners of the globe. What’s more, they have an incurable passion for the sport and will gladly give you some help and advice.

Progression and Next Steps


Skiing is a sport that is easy to pick up when compared with snowboarding for example, but the small intricacies in developing your skills can be a little bit more difficult to master. Keep pushing yourself and have a great time on the mountain.
For help with progressing your skillset, I recommend following Ski School by Elate Media on YouTube. They have an awesome collection of skiing tutorials, all the way from beginner level, right up to expert and even backcountry tips. They break down each skill into easy to digest chunks so that you don’t feel overwhelmed.
As you improve your skiing too, still take some lessons from time to time. Ski schools train people from their first day, all the way to riding your first expert chutes and some resorts even offer avalanche training too. The sky really is the limit when it comes to what the ski school can offer you and it’s a great investment in yourself.
Finally, try and hit the slopes with some friends who are slightly better than you. This will really give you the push you need to do better and challenge yourself on the mountain; my most successful days came from skiing the mountain with friends who had done it for years before me.
I hope this article has helped you prepare in some way for your first day on the mountain. I know it’s a lot to take in and skiing has a lot of learning curves associated with it. But follow these guidelines to get you started, take some lessons and most importantly, inhale the fresh air and have some fun!