How Much Body Armor Should I Wear for Mountain Biking?

  

Recently, someone posted a question on the Singletracks forum, asking riders what kind of helmets and body armor they use when riding. As expected, there were a variety of answers. Every rider needs some level of protection. After all, a crash could happen at any time, even on a trail as docile-looking as the one above, where it’s common to get into the low 20mph range while whizzing between pine trees.
But how much protection is enough, or too much? When I read the question I thought about my own experiences over the years, and how I settled on the body armor I currently use.  I want to share what I’ve learned and experienced in case others are struggling with this important question.

The early years

As a new rider, I loved hard shell knee and shin guards for protection against falls and pedals hitting my shins, but they impaired my flexibility and were not very comfortable.

When I first started mountain biking, my only source of protection was a helmet. After a few months of riding, and a couple of falls, I added gloves to the equation because skinned palms are no fun. Those two items suited me fine for two or three years. Then, after bouncing my knees off some roots, I decided I should also wear a pair of knee pads. This is where I got a little carried away.
I ride cross-country and light trail. There are some roots and rocks on my local trails, but nothing too extreme. Nevertheless, I chose a pair of Fox Launch knee/shin guards, which are designed for downhill riding. What they gave me in protection, they took away in comfort and flexibility, both of which were important because I was moving around a lot on my hardtail bike.

My first major crash and the aftermath

This picture was taken in August of 2015, four months after my crash. It’s no fun wearing a full-face helmet and goggles in the dead of summer.

In a previous article, I mentioned I had a bad crash. After that crash, I decided to increase the level of body armor I wore, specifically around my face. I bought a Fox Rampage full-face helmet (also made for downhill riding), and then some Fox Launch elbow guards.
Looking back, it is clear that I needed these items for psychological reasons, not for the trails I was riding. It’s rather funny to think that I wore all of this gear for over a year in Florida, even the summer months. It made for some very uncomfortable rides.
Yet, I was determined to protect myself from any possible harm that could occur, naively believing that these items had the power to do so. Over time, as my confidence returned, and my riding abilities increased, I stripped away all of this armor and replaced it with gear that was more appropriate for the trails and climate.

The body armor I use today

This is all the protection I currently use on my rides.

These days, I have settled on a lower level of protection that I feel is well-suited to my riding style and the trails that I ride on a regular basis.
My helmet is a Bell Super 2R, and I use the chin guard in colder weather and for trails with rough descents and drops.
I use Fox Dirtpaw full-finger gloves because I like the added hand protection in case of falls, and because they help with grip.
I use the Dakine Slayer “soft-shell” pull-on knee pads because they are really comfortable and flexible while still providing adequate protection in case of falls. They are so lightweight and breathable that I often forget I am wearing them. In my mind, I have found the right balance for me between comfort, flexibility, and protection, especially for the climate in Florida.

Body armor lessons learned

My experiences riding through the years have taught me some lessons when it comes to body armor. First, there is no body armor that will prevent all possible harm. That is not the purpose of body armor. Body armor is designed to reduce and dissipate the forces of impact sustained in a crash. You hit something hard enough or fast enough, you will get hurt regardless of what body armor you are wearing. So don’t buy body armor believing it will make you bullet-proof.
Second, you always need some level of protection when you ride. A helmet is a given, and should not even be part of the discussion. The only option with helmets is whether they should be half-shell or full-face, and that will depend on the rider’s comfort level as well as the terrain he or she is riding.

Besides a helmet, I highly recommend full-fingered gloves for both protection and grip. I also suggest investing in a good pair of knee pads. A broken knee cap is very painful, and has a long recovery period. Even some lightweight knee pads like mine can make the difference between a bruise and a broken bone.
Beyond those items, the rest is up to you. Choose body armor that fits your riding style. If you move around on your bike a lot, make sure protective gear is comfortable and flexible. Anything that hampers movement can actually increase the risk of a crash, which defeats the purpose of wearing protection in the first place.
Third, work on your bike handling skills. They are your first line of defense in a crash. Knowing how to save a bike that starts to slide off the trail will prevent you from having to test out the body armor. Learn how to expertly corner, brake, manual and bunny hop. I have saved myself from several potential crashes by using these skills. Along with that, it is also important to keep yourself in good riding shape. Do core-oriented workouts and balancing exercises, so that you can muscle your bike out of a jam. You need more than strong legs to mountain bike. Your whole body needs to be in good shape for you to be a great rider.
Finally, do not choose body armor based on other people’s opinions. I may have looked really dumb wearing a downhill helmet and goggles on an XC trail, but I didn’t care. It helped me enjoy riding again after a bad crash and gave me the comfort level I needed at the time. Don’t worry what other riders might think of you if you wear more body armor than they do. Body armor is a personal matter. Only you know what level of protection you need in order to have confidence on the trails and enjoy your rides.

Crashing Bikes is a Learning Experience [MTB Skills]

  

This drop on my “lunch-loop” had me on the B-line for a few months. It falls shallower than some of the jumps above it, but I had crashed on a similar drop while riding in France and couldn’t shake the fear.

The list of reasons we love riding trails has grown since sometime in the 1970’s, and each of us has a unique story of what the sport means and where it has taken us.”Continuous learning” is a phrase that sits on the top of my “why I ride” list. I love that no matter how long I have been riding, or how I excel at a particular challenge, I will never master it all.
You may have heard fellow mountain bikers throw around statements like “crashing is part of racing,” or ” if you don’t crash you’re not trying hard enough.” I have heard and said these things, both in relation to racing and riding with friends. I try not to tell other folks what their mountain biking experience should look like anymore, but I still consider crashing to be an important part of my own process. I see crashing as a form of failure, and without failure, I can’t learn new things.

Some drops appear intimidating or even confusing from the launch.

I go over the bars, or adjacent hillside, fairly often. By rough estimation, I bail once per month, and occasionally more. One of my ride partners recently said that I am the world’s best product tester because “if something can break, you will crash and destroy it.” Occasionally the thing that breaks is my own bone, but most of the time it’s a plastic component that was designed to fail on impact, like a helmet visor. Why don’t they include two or three extra visors when you buy a new lid?
In addition to professional skills courses, and following more seasoned friends, mountain bikers who want to learn new skills sometimes have to huck ourselves down or off of unfamiliar chunks of trail so we can learn how to, or not-to, ride them. For example, you have likely hit a section of track that is far gnarlier than you are comfortable with, but you know it will be less dangerous to ride than to walk down alongside your bike.

If you race, you might show up to an event and find an intimidating jump in the track that you would never want to ride, but if you choose to compete you will have to send it. For other folks, challenges and their adjacent fear come when trying to drift sweeping corners on fire roads, or other high-speed slides. Each of these situations requires some understanding, conscious or otherwise, that you may not succeed.

From below you can see that this one has a broad and solid landing. All that’s left is a few deep breaths and hard pedal strokes.

I have been in these scenarios numerous times while learning the minutia of mountain biking, and there are a few things that have helped me get to the other side. The most helpful piece has been acknowledging that I might crash and then to become as comfortable as I can with that fact. If I am only thinking of crashing when I approach the thing that is scaring me, crashing becomes nearly inevitable. When I can relax and focus on executing the problem before me, while letting a crash be the unknown possibility that it always is, I often clean the section and roll along to the next.
This is all far easier to write than it is to practice, and crashing is undoubtedly not the fun part of mountain biking. Nevertheless, if you want to push yourself toward new challenges on the trail it might be worth taking a long think through your relationship to crashing, then researching some gear and methods to make that part of the learning experience less painful.
Lastly, in that millisecond wherein images of everything you haven’t yet done in life flash past, the same millisecond you know for sure you are going to eat some dirt, hug both of your arms in tight against your chest, and put your chin against your sternum. Then, think about rolling like a ball bearing across the ground. Balling up like this will help in your newfound and immediate goal of only breaking bike components.

Shimano SLX Offers a More Affordable 12-speed Drivetrain  

We’ve all been wondering when Shimano would bring their own 12-speed drivetrain to the market. It happened a year ago with XTR, although not all of it was actually ready for the market. Today, Shimano announced a mid-tier 12-speed option that Singletracks tested in Bellingham, and the company is also launching an entry-level SLX option.
Shimano has always tried to trickle their technology down from premium components to more affordable components, and that’s what they’ve done with SLX.
Like the new Deore XT option, the 12-speed SLX M7100 comes with a Micro-Spline cassette in a 10-45T, or a 10-51T range, 1×12 or 1×12 cranksets, an SLX 12-speed chain, 2- or 4-piston brakes, adjustable I-Spec-EV shifters, front and rear derailleurs, and hubsets.

Cranksets

SLX 1×12 cranksets will feature Hollowtech II technology with an integrated axle and hollow crank arms. Chainrings come with a Dynamic Chain Engagement+ tooth profile, which is a narrow/wide tooth pattern. This aids chain retention and the quietness of the drivetrain.
The crank is equipped with a direct-mount system for easy chainring mounting and cranksets come with a 30t, 32t, or 34t chainring option, interchangeable with XTR and XT rings. Crank lengths are available in 156mm, 170mm, or 175mm.
The cranksets are available in three chain lines:

• • 52mm (FC-M7100-1) for Over Lock-Nut Dimensions (O.L.D.) of 142mm or 148mm to give the narrowest 172mm Q-factor (Claimed weight: 631g)
  • 55mm (FC-M7120-1) for an O.L.D. of 148mm for wider tire and frame clearance. Q-factor: 178mm. (Claimed weight: 638g)
  • 56.5mm (FC-M7130-1) for an O.L.D. of 157mm and a Q-factor of 181mm (Claimed weight: 656g)
  • (All claimed weights are with a 32t ring, 175mm crank length and without BB)

The 2×12 crankset offers a great amount of range with the 10-45t cassette. The cranksets are available to match Boost and non-Boost Q-factors and chainlines. They weigh 674g-682g.

Cassette and chain

The SLX 12-speed cassettes with Micro-Spline are available in a 10-45t or a 10-51t sizes. Both feature Hyperglide+ for quick shifting. The cassettes have an aluminum spider to house eleven steel sprockets and one aluminum sprocket for a balance of durability and weight. Claimed weights are 534g for the 10-51T and 513g for the 10-45T option.

The SLX HG chain has been redesigned with an extended inner plate to improve engagement and retention. Claimed weight is 252g.

Derailleurs

Derailleurs come in either a single (RD-M7100-SGS) or double (RD-M7120-SGS) options. All derailleurs feature Shimano Shadow RD+ to make shifting more quiet. Claimed weights are from 316g to 322g.
The front derailleur comes in one spec that fits both 48.8mm and 51.8mm chain lines, but are available for D-type, E-typse, or M-type mounts. They weigh between 114g and 166g.

Shifters

Shifters offer side and rotational adjustment options on the I-spec-EV shifters and bolt to the brake lever for a neat, personalized feel. The left, front shifter weighs 73g and the rear shifter weighs 121g.

Brakes

SLX calipers are available in an XC-ready 2-piston version, or a trail/enduro-ready 4-piston version. The 2-piston version is the same design as the previous version, meaning that the previous SLX resin or metal pads are compatible. The 4-piston version is brand new, inspired by the new XTR M9100 design and uses D03S (resin) or D02S (metal) pads. They’re also compatible with N03A and N04C finned pads.

The SLX levers work with both of the calipers and feature the Shimano Servo wave system for better engagement, improved power, and a shorter free stroke. The levers feature a reach adjust dial for easy personalization. XC-style kits with 160mm rotors and pads weigh 425g. The enduro-style kits weigh 444g including rotors and pads.
The SLX Ice-Tech rotors (SM-RT70) are designed to cool rapidly with a sandwiched aluminum core, surrounded by a steel outer layer. They’re available in 140mm, 160mm, 180mm, and 203mm diameters.

Hubs

SLX hubs are available in 100mm and 142mm, 110mm and 148mm, or 157mm. The freehub features a Micro-Spline cassette body.

Weights, summarized

• M7100 Cranksets, 32t ring, 175mm, w/o BB: 631g
• CS-M7100-12, 10-51t cassette: 534g
• CN-M7100 chain: 252g
• RD–M7100-SGS derailleur: 316g
• SL-M7100-IR shifter: 117g
• BB-MT800 bottom bracket: 82g
• Disc brake set, BL-M7100/BR7120: 311g
• SM-RT70-S rotors: 133g per rotor
• SLX group with 1×12, 32t ring, front and rear 4-piston brakes w/ 160mm rotors: 2820g
• SLX drivetrain only: 1932g

Pricing

• M7100 Cranksets, 32t ring, 175mm, w/o BB: $104.99
• CS-M7100-12, 10-51t cassette: $99.99
• CN-M7100 chain: $31.99
• RD–M7100-SGS derailleur: $74.99
• SL-M7100-IR shifter: $38.99
• BB-MT800 bottom bracket: $25.99
• Disc brake set, BL-M7100/BR7120: $174.99
• SM-RT70-S rotors: $29.99
• SLX group with 1×12, 32t ring, front and rear 4-piston brakes w/ 160mm rotors: $819.89
• SLX drivetrain only: $409.93

Differences between SLX and XT

Like most differences between entry-level components and mid-tier or premium, the SLX weighs more, is a little less crisp or fast, and isn’t quite as aesthetic. Other differences include the absence of a free-stroke adjustment on the SLX brake lever. There are also fewer chainring options, no complete wheelsets, and no multi-release on the right shifter or textured padding on the shift levers.

Compared to SRAM

Compared to a drivetrain option from SRAM, the 12-speed Shimano SLX ($410) sits above NX Eagle ($375) in price and below GX Eagle ($500).
The SLX drivetrain weight (1932g) is slightly lighter than the NX Eagle (2050g), but heavier than the GX Eagle (1747g).
So, of course this would position the SLX as a more attractive option than NX Eagle since it is slightly lighter at only about $35 more. Then again, maybe four ounces isn’t worth the extra cost to you. The caveat is that the cassette options from Shimano offer a little bit more range than the SRAM NX cassettes.

Conclusion

Conversation and internet chatter has rambled on for the past few years as to when Shimano would catch up to SRAM with 12-speed drivetrains. They released their first and most expensive XTR option near the same time last year when SRAM trickled down its last bit of technology to NX Eagle. Now it seems like the energy has shifted again, this time toward electronic drivetrains following the release of SRAM AXS.
Looking at the numbers, Shimano clearly has a solid, affordable system at the table now with SLX.

All Bikes Are Gravel Bikes, Are They Not?

We grew up on rural gravel roads, riding whatever bike had enough air left in the tires.
It was late summer in the Selkirk mountains of Priest Lake, Idaho, and mosquitos streamed from the cabin’s septic tank cover that served as their rightful mothership. The Nitty Gritty Dirt Band’s latest tune blared through the shade of native western red cedar, bouncing off their towering trunks, taller than all of us ratty river-kids combined, and older than our greatest-grandparents.
An early memory of balancing between two wheels sits atop my grandma Gladys’s brown mixte, on a graveled county road outside that cabin. The generator light on grandma’s bike likely had more heft than the frame of its modern equivalent. I was pedaling with all of the kid-angst and excitement I could muster, to lock up the rear tire and whip-skid into the driveway in front of my sister or cousin who were waiting for their turn on the bike. I try to remember that kid and to have that kind of fun playing in the dirt today.
Those first whip-skids led to a lifetime of playing on bikes that I feel fortunate to continue. I went on to race cyclocross, road, and mountain bikes, and joined a supportive community of people who are equally infatuated with the rush of balance and traction. Most of the bike racers and riders I know have their own narrative of riding gravel-packed roads. Some folks grew up in rural areas, where gravel streets were far better than the dirt and mud roads that preceded them. The size-specific stones in the road help the surface drain and keep dust and mud in check. The bits of broken tarmac highway served as a spine for their broader gravel rib cage, but that smoother spine was too dangerous to pedal along.

The quiet place for base miles.

The advent of “gravel bike” marketing over the past several seasons has made me giggle on a regular basis. I imagine someone at a bike company that makes fine cyclocross frames proposing to their marketing team, “we all love epic dirt-road rides, so why don’t we repaint our cyclocross bikes and sell them as gravel bikes. Who knows, It might just become the new and cool genre of cycling.” This someone was rightly laughed out of the room, then eventually the idea was given further consideration, and now we have a burgeoning industry segment of cyclocross bikes with slightly lower bottom brackets and wider tires, ready to ride where no one has ridden before. On gravel roads.
The reasons why mountain bikers and road cyclists enjoy riding gravel are many and good. You can still ride while the singletrack dries out, there is often less traffic when you leave the pavement, the auditory feedback from tires on slightly shifting stones is fantastic, you have a reason to use larger and cozier tires on a road ride, you get to geek out on different gear, and all of the other benefits of cycling are sprinkled on top of this lovely gravel cupcake.
Do we need specific bikes that bear the “gravel” moniker for rolling over the same smashed stones we have always pedaled on mountain bikes, ‘cross bikes, or road bikes? There are plenty of cycling genres that require purpose-built machines to improve the riding and racing experience, but the gravel scene hasn’t made a strong case for its gear. Until convinced otherwise, I am going to chalk the gravel-hype up to exceptionally adept marketing, and continue to have a laugh at the “latest gravel tech” news.
On rainy days, when the trails are too wet to respectfully shred, I ride my trusty hardtail or cyclocross race bikes on dirt and gravel roads to maintain fitness. I also ride my long travel mountain bike on gravel roads, sometimes climbing for 3-4 consecutive hours to reach some of the best trails available. So, are all of my bikes gravel bikes? When I ride them on gravel — I suppose they are.

12 Annoying habits of MTB

1. Moaning

It’s too cold. It’s too hot. It’s too wet. It’s too windy. We shouldn’t have gone this way. Bizarrely, these are first people to burst out and proclaim “ey, that was a great ride that” upon completion of the ride. They are also blissfully unaware that they are The Moaner.

2. Giving too much information

Keeping people informed as to what ‘s ahead is all well and good but sometimes it can be OTT. Well-meaning trail guides can be guilty of two annoying habits: too frequent pointers about EVERYTHING on the trail (“puddle!”), and/or reeling off a long description of the route ahead and expecting people to remember it. Partly related to…

3. Disappearing off ahead

Being able to ride in a group is an unappreciated skill. Varying your speed and effort for the greater good of the group dynamic and all that. Some folk simply aren’t aware of this skill. They’re the ones who ride at their (usually flat out) pace at all times. Whether they’re the ride leader, or (even worse) someone who doesn’t know the route, is immaterial. It is really freaking annoying regardless.

4. Knowing it all

Riders who think they can set your bike up, for you, better than yourself. “You ride with your brake levers like that?”, “You’re saddle‘s too high”, “what tyre pressures you running?”, “does your bike normally bob that much?”, “your stem’s too low/high/long”. Also knows all the bike news and gossip but only after you’ve just come out and mentioned it in passing.

5. Blaming

Quite similar to moaning but more specifically about finding any and every scapegoat for performing sub par (even though no one else gives a hoot about the level of the blamer’s riding anyway). Rebound damping set incorrectly. Wrong tyres. Bad night’s sleep. Tired from work…

6. Blocking and on your left!-ing

Dealing with trail traffic. Belligerently staying in the way whilst someone faster patiently waits behind, ignoring all safe passing place options, can be annoying. But not as annoying as the racehead who barges past slower riders, thinking that shouting “ON YOUR LEFT!” is as much etiquette as is required.

7. Borrowing

Lending someone, stranger or otherwise, an inner tube is a noble thing. It’s very much the spirit the mountain biking. It’s karmic; someone will lend you one at some point. But the rider who never has any (useful) spares on them is a classic annoying mountain biker. It’s mountain biking, something will awry at some point. Absolving your communal responsibility and carrying nothing with you because it makes your lighter and more comfortable, is very poor form.

8. Strava-ing

Rides are not races. Strava KOMs are not real victories. Corners and obstacles that slow you down are A Good Thing, not Something To Be Removed. Using Strava to best yourself, whilst staying true to the trail and other trail users, is fine. Great, even. But ‘racing’ other riders on phantom time trials? Nah. Enter a proper race instead. Those results actually mean something.

9. Not sharing

Kinda related to Strava-ing. The trails are not your personal private playground. Other people use them too: fellow riders, walkers, runners, horse riders, dog walkers. Be nice, say hi.

10. Squeaking

The rider who doesn’t do much/any bike maintenance. Squeaky pedals, squeaky jockey wheels, clicky bottom bracket, tickling disc brake pads, not-quite-misaligned-enough mech and so on. A full service for these riders involves oiling their (mud-coated) chain.

11. Faffing

Needs no explanation. All groups have one of these archetypes. Always finds something else to do instead of set off.

12. Littering

Get in the bin. In every sense. And yes, hanging inner tubes in trees or on fences at trail centres is littering.

13 Cycling Cities in the US

When the chill of winter is gone and the days are finally longer, it can only mean one thing: It’s time to pump up the tires, strap on your helmet and hit the trails in America's top cycling cities.

Boulder, Colorado
This picturesque mountain town at the base of the Rockies is a cyclist's paradise. Boulder boasts hundreds of miles of bike paths, nearby access to world-class mountain biking trails such as Walker Ranch and over 300 days of sunshine a year. The city's bike share program, Boulder B-cycle, offers 24-hour bike access at any B-station; just swipe your card, grab a bike and take a ride through town; for mountain biking head to rental shops like Boulder Bikesmith. The only thing that might slow you down is the altitude, but you can easily remedy that by grabbing a post-ride beer at one of Boulder's many microbreweries.

Portland, Oregon
Portland has long been the king of cycling in the US and has inspired cities all across the nation to follow in its footsteps. In fact, no other city in the United States has more cyclists per capita... or more coffee shops. Sip and go, exploring town on bike; shops like Clever Cycles, Veloce Bicycles and Fat Tire Farm (for mountain bikes) are just a few bike rental store options. (Portland launched its own bike share program in 2016.) There's more than just city riding, too; take your fat tires for a jaunt into Forest Park, the nation's largest urban preserve, and jump on the single-track mountain bike trails.

Chicago, Illinois
You ever wonder why people say summertime in Chicago is the greatest? There aren't too many places around the country that you can literally be in a major US metropolis or sitting on the beach within 3 minutes of each other, if that. This makes biking in Chicago more unique then anywhere else on our list. For a direct line to your destination, trek through the bustling city. There is plenty of amazing architecture and a bevy of bike lanes. But if you're looking for a more scenic ride with awesome views of Chicago's breathtaking high-rise buildings and beaches packed with co-eds and families alike, cruise along the awe-inspiring shoreline.


New York City, New York
It may seem overwhelming to jump into the mayhem of NYC traffic, but the Big Apple has made it a priority to accommodate the two-wheeled traveler with hundreds of miles of bike lanes. On Memorial Day 2013, the city unveiled the country's largest bike share program, with over 6,000 bikes and 330 stations. If you're looking to avoid cars altogether, take a spin down the Hudson River Greenway, a protected pedestrian path that runs 11 miles from Battery Park to the southern tip of Manhattan; you can rent a bike in the park, too.

Washington, D.C.
If you want to eliminate frustrating traffic jams and horrible parking from your vacation, here's the solution: Ride a bike! Cruising through D.C. on two wheels is the easiest and fastest way to experience all the impressive monuments and memorials. With the Capital Bikeshare program you have over 1,800 rentable bikes at your fingertips. (Be sure to brush up on the program's bike safety tips, too.) If you're feeling a little more adventurous, head to a bike rental shop like Big Wheel Bikes for a mountain bike, then jump on the beautiful 185-mile-long C&O Canal trail, which follows the mighty Potomac River from D.C. into Cumberland, Maryland.


San Francisco, California
We know, the thought pushing your way past cruising cable cars, up the winding San Francisco streets doesn't sound like the ideal biking situation. However, it's truly a treat to take in the incredible views the City by the Bay has to offer. Take in the iconic Painted Ladies and Golden Gate Bridge as you slash through the famed San Francisco fog. Then, after seeing the picturesque views of the Pacific, explore The City's notorious rolling hills. For a long trek, it's always important to stay well nourished. Thankfully, San Francisco has one of the best food scenes in the entire U.S., so don't forget to stop off for a quick bite before, during or after your bike ride.


Minneapolis, Minnesota
Minneapolis is known for its brutal winters, but that doesn't stop the locals from pedaling year-round. The city has the second-highest number of bicycle commuters of the larger U.S. cities (right behind Portland). The bike culture here is big and proud, and includes an eclectic mix of roadies, messengers, BMXers and hipsters, who can enjoy 120 miles of bikeways, bike-pedestrian bridges like the Stone Arch Bridge and the city's bike share program, Nice Ride Minnesota. The city is also very flat, which makes it a great place for beginners and those who don't want to arrive at work dripping in sweat. So you've got no excuse not to bust out that bike.


Tucson, Arizona
Tucson is the sleeper on this list but not to be left out. This desert oasis has more bicycle infrastructure than any other city in the U.S., boasting more than 700 miles of designated bikeways. You can ride year-round without bundling up, and the mountain bike trails outside of town, as in the Santa Catalina Mountains, are top-notch -- just don't crash into a cactus!

Austin, Texas
Any city that has a bike zoo has to be in the top 10. (Ever seen a pedal-powered 80-foot rattlesnake? You can at Austin Bike Zoo.) Texas' quirky capital city is also home to the 6-mile-long Lance Armstrong Bikeway/), which opened in 2009 and runs through the heart of town. And just outside of Austin is the famous Texas Hill Country, which provides endless riding through picturesque ranchland.


Seattle, Washington
Some of the best biking in the country can be found in the Pacific Northwest, and Seattle may even provide the best in the whole area. No matter what your biking preference is, Seattle can provide the terrain. Mountain views? Check. Beach biking? Check. Forests and parks? Check. City trails? Check. One of the most diverse cities for biking, any cycling trip in Seattle is sure to provide a boatload of bike lanes and a long list of unforgettable memories.


Missoula, Montana
You might think of Montana as cowboy country, but in this hip little city, bicycles, not horses, rule the road. Missoula is small enough for bicycles to reach just about any spot in the city, and there's a wide range of mountain bike trails located just outside of town, such as Pattee Canyon, Rattlesnake Recreation Area and Blue Mountain. It's also home to the Adventure Cycling Association, one of the nation's premier bicycle travel organizations. Saddle up!


San Diego, California
San Diego is blessed with both amazing road and mountain riding. Add in pleasant year-round weather and you've got the perfect place to pedal. Take a ride to the pier in the beachfront neighborhood of Ocean Beach for a look at quintessential California surfers, bikinis, sandcastles and all sorts of colorful characters. Balboa Park is the gem of the city (and America's largest urban cultural park), pedal your bike to the famous San Diego Zoo and enjoy a picnic in the grass. Don't have a bike? San Diego's bike share program to put 1,800 bikes in 180 stations around the city is still in the works, so head to outfitters like Stay Classy Bicycle Rentals in the meantime.


Louisville, Kentucky
This charming Southern city is quickly becoming a hub for cycling. The highlight is the 100-mile Louisville Loop, a trail system that will someday connect the entire city, linking parks and neighborhoods in one giant bicycle super highway. Louisville also has a groovy new pedestrian bridge if you feel like bopping across the Ohio River into Indiana. For short trips around town, pick up a bike through the city's bike-sharing program, Louisville B-cycle.

Best mountain bike knee pads

What to look for in the best mountain bike knee pads. Hard or soft? Pull-on or wrap-on? Which brands make the best? Why wear knee pads at all?
We’ll start straight in with the reviews and then follow up with our conclusions and finish this guide off with some general knee pad buying advice…

Our current pick of the best mountain bike knee pads

Alpinestars Paragon

Although mid-weight, the Paragon offers heavy-duty protection, and we actually put this to the test going down hard on loose gravel on one of the test rides. This scuffed a hole in the face fabric but we walked away without a scratch. With its contoured shape the Paragon has the best fit of any on test, there’s absolutely no folding or pad movement at the knee, even when pedalling hard. The mesh back panel offers good breathability and, while the seams are flat and inward facing, we did experience a little bit of uncomfortable bunching of the material at the back of the leg. Elastic at the bottom hem and silicone at the top, plus a couple of strips inside, stop the Paragon shifting out of wack. Overall this is a solid kneepad, available in a ton of sizes, what gets it our ‘best on test’ award is the price.

G-Form Pro-X

A lot of companies make G-Form knock offs but it was the first with this lightweight design and the Pro-X is second-generation pad with much meatier padding and the company’s new RPT (rate-dependent technology), self-hardening smart material. The pad on the MkII is shaped to fit better but there’s still a little bit of bunch on the sides of the pad. To save weight the sleeve is gets a Lycra face fabric with a technical mesh back panel to enhance breathability and moisture wicking. The Pro-X is available in six sizes, although the large tested did feel a too tight at the calf. And the silicone gripper on the top edge also pulled on the skin, leaving a red mark. The Pro-X is super lightweight, has a good level of protection and unlike other pads using smart materials is also machine washable, which is good because dirt does collect in all the channels.

Ion K-Sleeve

This is a long knee warmer style pad that you can literally tuck underneath you liner shorts to keep it in place. It is the longest pad we’ve ever tested but it’s also one of the lightest. Protection comes from high-density memory foam insert that extends across the top and down the sides. You can’t see it but this is actually stamped in a hex pattern allowing it to mould easier to the knee. The K_Sleeve is also side specific and Ion does the smart thing and writes this on the outside of the pad, so you don’t have to rummage about looking for the info on the label. To increase wicking there’s a super breathable mesh back panel, which is also none chafing and, if you do sweat buckets, it also gets an anti-odour treatment. Like the Race Face Charge tested elsewhere, the K_Sleeve only offers minimal protection but is super comfy and prefect as winter leg wear.

Leatt Airflex Pro

We tested Leatt’s original ultra slim AirFlex knee guard two years ago and it felt flimsy and didn’t fit snug. The Pro is much more meaty and now features additional side and upper knee impact protection. To increase airflow the centre kneecap is perforated and it’s built onto a sleeve made from Leatt’s new highly vented and breathable MoistureCool and AirMesh fabrics. Both are antimicrobial and so far have been pretty hardwearing. The Pro does bunch up where the side pads come together and, like all open designs, it does fill with dirt. However, the cap material is hardwearing, offers plenty of protection, even for gravity riding, and it’s doesn’t move due to printed silicon inside the cup and comfy grippers top and bottom. Just so you know what knee goes in what pad Leatt even writes left and right on the outside.

Six Six One Recon

With its lightweight sleeve with a waffle style protector, the Recon is a lot like the G-Form Pro-X. It even uses a smart urethane protector using the branded XRD Technology. Like the D3O, the idea is that it forms to your body shape in normal riding conditions but then freezes under impact. Fit round the back is great with a stretch mesh panel and an elastic strap over the calf. 661 also goes easy on the gripper, using a minimal strip on the inside of the elastic hems. A unique feature of the Recon is the Padlock connection, a simple press-stud system that lets you attach the kneepad to 661’s Evo Short to keep it in place. The Recon is less substantial than the TSG and G-form kneepads and does bunch up a bit at the sides but it is more affordable and is lighter.

TSG Joint Knee Sleeve

The TSG Joint Knee Sleeve also features a waffle style PU foam pad. It’s not made from clever compared to G-form’s self-hardening smart material but it has a bit more meat to it and is supplemented via extra side pads. With the built in articulation it’s properly form fitting and moulds easily to the shape of your knee when bent. To save weight and to reduce irritation of the tendons on the back of the knee, TSG runs a flexible Lycra sleeve with vented mesh back complete with a cut-out. The Lycra material is sporting a few nicks in places but it’s quick drying, which is great because unlike most pads with D30 or similar, the TSG pad is machine washable. For a lightweight waffle pad the Joint offers a high level of protection, it’s also stays there due to some terry material directly over the patella area. Left and right specific, what stops it getting top marks is the lack of sizes and price.

Troy Lee Designs Speed Knee

Troy Lee makes a massive range of protection with the Speed Knee Sleeve being the lightest and least protective but it’s easily one of the most comfortable in the range. This is due to its 360degree seamless construction; which is sort of like an oversized sock. The only issue we had with the sleeve is the material is a little thick, there’s no mesh, so the pad runs hotter than most. Protection is via a 4mm D3O insert. In its inert state this smart material is soft and malleable but hit the deck and it stiffness significantly. It offers a decent level of impact protection and gets an abrasion-resistant cover but it’s not machine washable. The Speed Knee is really comfortable, even on long all day rides, but it’s a little short in length, the silicone gripper on the upper seam is a little too tight and the pad bunches a bit on the outside edge.

7iDP Transition mountain bike knee pads

The Transition has a light construction consisting of a thin Lycra sock with full-length ventilated panels, held in place by silicon gripper strips at both the top and bottom. The pad itself is heat-moldable foam and feels thicker and protective. It took slightly longer to conform to the knee when on, but once it’s shaped itself to the knee it proved super comfortable and I had no problems wearing the Transition on big rides. The Lycra sleeve goes quite a long way up your thigh, which can be useful for eliminating chilly breezes but it can also overlap with undershorts if they’re particularly long. In use the thin construction makes for good ventilation – only the area behind the pad gets sweaty on hot days. Without any extra straps to fine-tune the fit, correct sizing is important but the medium size tested felt snug and the pad didn’t move once on. It also never felt constrictive or uncomfortable.

Sweet Protection Bearsuit mountain bike knee pads

The Bearsuit is pretty much as basic a kneepad as you could design. It is essentially a perforated, stretchy tube that has a gripper strip along the top edge and a Sas-Tec pad over the kneecap for protection. No straps, no webbing: as I said simple. As such it pays to make sure it fits well around the thigh or you’ll forever be pulling it up. Thankfully the size medium fitted me well and I had no such issues – the Bearsuit staying firmly put over some seriously long days in the saddle. Sas-Tec is a Viscoelastic foam that moulds around the knee with your body heat. As kneepads go the level of protection is fairly light but suits the ride-all-day nature of the pad well and should be sufficient in all but the nastiest of crashes. A lighter stretch panel at the back of the knee stops bunching and adds a little extra ventilation but it still feels a little warm in hot weather. It doesn’t stop the Bearsuit from being a great lightweight option for trail riders though and, after a few months of regular use, it’s showing no signs of wear

Dainese Trail Skins 2 mountain bike knee pads

All the tweaks and improvements do add £20 (compared to the old trail Skins) to the price but the Trail Skin 2 is still very good value because it such great quality. It’s also comfortable, breathable and has the right level of on-trail protection for risk takers and the accident-prone.
Read the full review of the Dainese Trail Skins 2 knee pads

Specialized Atlas mountain bike knee pads

The Atlas pads make wearing kneepads just that little bit easier for general trail riding, being both light and comfortable. Whilst they certainly do not offer the protection of more substantial kneepads they help limit the damage from the inevitable. The price is possibly a tenner higher than some comparable products, but you’ll use these pads again and again and again.
Read the full review of Specialized Atlas knee pads

Ion K-Lite Zip-off mountain bike knee pads

Part of a new breed of easy-to-remove kneepads, Ion’s K-Lite Zip is lightweight and relatively slim-line, but still packs loads of protection. On top of a hard shell cup (to better distribute any crash forces), Ion uses an impact-hardening German polymer called SAS-TEC.
Read the full review of Ion K-Lite Zip-off knee pads

Race Face Ambush mountain bike knee pads

Comfort is excellent — once the Ambush pads are on, you soon forget you’re wearing them and the terry-towelling lining capably mops up sweat and keeps you cool in hot weather. The Race Faces are a little bit heavier than some guards with DH levels of protection, but also extremely comfortable to hike, pedal or climb in, even for extended periods.

Read the full review of the Race face Ambush knee pads

Troy Lee Designs KG5400 Shock Doctor mountain bike knee pads

Troy Lee Designs KG5400 Shock Doctor mountain bike knee pads

There’s a good reason why you’ll see these puppies in this magazine so often — our staff repeatedly choose them above all others, and after completing thousands of trail miles, they still look decent, have held their shape and are working perfectly.
Read the full review of the Troy Lee Designs KG5400 knee pads

The best mountain bike knee pads

Kneepads didn’t used to be a common sight on the trails because we didn’t have the level of technicality we do now and most of the DH/gravity kneepads on offer we really uncomfortable if you had to pedal in them for any length of time. Now-a-days most trail riders can be seen sporting some form or armour and that’s because most of the lightweight kneepads can easily we worn all day in comfort but will still save you if things go pear shaped.
If you’re after the bare minimum then we’d recommend a knee warmer style pad like the Ion K_Sleeve. This design is so comfy that it doesn’t feel like you’re wearing a kneepad at all and both are great in the winter because they offer extra warmth and can be peeled of after a muddy ride, taking all the clag with them. The downside of these ultra light kneepads is the lack of padding – these kneepads will protect from gravel rash but that’s about it.
If you want to go to the other end of the scale then the Leatt Airflx Pro offer the most protection. Again the trade off is they are the least comfortable. Most of this is down to the flexibility of the pad – if it doesn’t move with you it can chafe the ligaments at the back of the knee but conversely if it moves too much, it can also result in some soreness. The best pads are the ones that are snug at the top and bottom seams, with firmness rather than constriction at the back of the knee. A good kneepad also needs to form to the shape of your knee, where it can stay centred and be more effective if you crash. Some manufacturers actually place silicone gripper inside the knee to stop knee cap movement but we’re not convinced this is a good idea because silicone rubbing on your skin is more abrasive than plain Lycra.
Pads with a high comfort level and good stability include the 7idp Transition, G-Form Pro-X, TSG Joint Knee Sleeve and the Troy Lee Designs Speed Knee Sleeve. They’re all slightly different takes on the lightweight design but it was oly a couple of little details that stopped them from taking top honours. The Troy Lee and 7idp were both a little too warm, the G-Form lacked a little bit of lateral protection and the lack of sizes and price did for the TSG. The Troy Lee and G-Form pads both get smart materials and are more affordable than the TSG.
It was also the price, or lack of it in this case, that earned the Alpine Stars Paragon top marks. It wasn’t the most comfortable kneepad here.

Knee pads are the new helmets

What we mean by this is that it’s now standard to wear knee pads just like it is standard to wear a helmet.
Back in the early days of mountain biking the only protection seen on normal riders was a helmet – sometimes riders didn’t even bother with them! Nowadays knee pads are no longer an unusual sight on trail riders. Indeed, it’s becoming odd to see riders not wearing knee pads.

Mountain bike knee pads: why wear knee pads?

Why has it become standard? Partly this is due to two things.
Firstly, riders are generally riding more technical trails than they used to and/or riding trails faster than they used to. Thus the frequency and consequences of coming off are higher.
The other reason is that modern knee pads are not uncomfortable to wear. Much like improvements in helmets, knee pads are lighter, more airy and less chafe-prone than pads of old.
Of course, you don’t have to wear knee pads. It’s entirely up to you. We’d recommend wearing them on every ride and just getting used to them and having it become second nature. You can never predict on what rides you’ll crash. Indeed, it’s often the casual local loops that see the worst crashes!
As well as protecting you from more serious injuries, knee pads main time is spent preventing your knees from the common scrapes and cuts you get from mountain biking. They also help to keep you a bit warmer in colder and wetter weather.

Mountain bike knee pads: what to look for

Knee pads don’t vary a great deal in general design or concept. Most pads are a tube of fabric with a hole in the back of the knee, some sort of pad or plastic at the front and a Velcro strap at the top and bottom cuffs.

Hard or soft mountain bike knee pads?

The biggest variation in them is whether they’re soft or hard. Hard pads have a rigid bit of plastic cupping around the knee. Although these can be bulkier and less breathable some riders do find that they stay in place better than softer pads.
There are also some knee pads that are both soft AND hard at the same time. These use ‘magic’ forms of material that are pliable and soft until they receive an impact, at which point they stiffen up and go hard. Pads with this sort of stuff in them can be more expensive and they aren’t as breathable as regular soft pads but they can be very comfy to wear and, well, they’re pretty trick.
Soft pads may seem a bit of an odd or risky choice. And although technically not as protective as a hard plastic cup, they do protect you from the vast majority of crash damage (cuts, scrapes, mild bruising).
Soft pads are typically more comfortable and less sweaty to wear than hard pads, which is actually a very good point to note. If you’re more likely to wear the pads in the first place because they’re comfy then that is inherently safe than owning a set of hard pads that you never actually wear because they’re too sweaty and stiff.

Pull-on or wrap-on mountain bike knee pads?

The other aspect that varies is how you put on or remove the pads. Pull-on or wrap-on are the options.
The more common variety is pull-on knee pads. As it says, you pull them on over your foot and up into place. These can be awkward to do if you’ve already got your riding shoes on (a handy hint here is to pull them on with the front at the rear; that way is passes over your heel easier).
Wrap-on pads can be removed or put on without having to remove your shoes. They’re a bit more user-friendly and the idea is that you can put the pads on as-and-when required ie. you can remove them when you know you have an extended bit of fireroad climbing or tarmac bashing to do.
Sizing is a key issue with knee pads. It’s good idea to check out the product listing details for leg opening sizing info – or visit the manufacturer’s website for info if it’s not listed on the retail shop’s page.

We’ve all been there – you’re bombing down a piece of rocky singletrack and suddenly you’re in slow-mo, arcing gracefully over the bars followed by the inevitable crunch of body on the trail. Spectacular crashes happen but often it’s just a small tumble and a bit of gravel rash or a cut which can really put the mockers on a ride. To stop this drama becoming a crisis, lightweight kneepads are the perfect solution.
Most usually have semi-flexible or mouldable kneecap mounted to a Lycra body with mesh panelling at the back for breathability and a large cut away or stretchy material to reduce chaffing when pedalling for long periods. Obviously a lightweight kneepad won’t stop really big impacts and they’re definitely no substitute for proper armour if you’re riding downhill or have paid for an uplift but they are great for general trail riding. They’re so comfortable and well fitted that you often don’t know you have them on.
Lightweight kneepads are also popular with enduro racers because they allow freedom of movement when pedalling but with just enough protection should you fall on the highly demanding technical courses. Due to their minimal construction lightweight kneepads are also relatively cheap, so there’s not really any excuse to get protected.

Used and Abused: How we test

One of the reasons for choosing a lightweight kneepad is because you want comfort while pedalling. To put these to the test we minimum ride time was two hours with each of the kneepads simply because it usually takes that long for any rubbing or chafing to become apparent. Also the silicone gripper, designed to hold the kneepads in place, only starts to irritate the skin once it’s sweaty. By accident rather than design we even crashed hard using a few of these pads, testing the effectiveness of the pad and it’s ability to stay in place.

Pad

Most lightweight kneepads use a soft kneecap or pad made from memory foam or EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate). This is flexible and often shaped or articulated to fit better round the knee. Some kneepads use D30, a self-hardening polymer that stiffens during a high-speed impact.

Side pads

Ideally the central pad absorbs most of the impact with smaller side pads adding extra protection if you slide down the trail. The whole knee is often covered with Kevlar or Cordura for abrasion resistance.

Cutaway

To stop chafing on the ligaments at the back of the knee lightweight pads are often totally cutaway in this area with a more gentle seam and finishing.

Gripper

To hold the pad up manufacturers often put a small strip of silicone on the top and bottom seams. It can irritate the skin however, so some manufacturers use slightly smaller strips or eliminate it all together, preferring a stretchy hem instead.

Strap

It’s not common on lightweight kneepads but a couple of models have straps on the top seam to adjust the fit and get the kneepad tight. Straps add weight and cost though, and the Velcro can often pick holes in the Lycra or mesh.

Side specific

Some kneepads are side specific and there’s usually a label inside with this written on. A clue is often in the logo – it always goes on the outside.

Sizes

The more sizes the better. Most manufacturers do at least two sizes but four offers a greater range of fit. Generally kneepad sizing is pretty accurate but it always pays to try before you buy.