Thursday, November 3, 2016

I’m thankful for snowboarding because…

1. It gives me a greater respect and appreciation for nature.
2. It reminds me not to take life too seriously.
3. I get to see the sunrise every morning on my drive up to the mountains. 4. I
5. Fresh, untouched, deep powder.
6. It teaches me to get up when I fall down, literally and metaphorically.
7. It forces me to unplug from technology.
8. It keeps me in shape.
9. It pushes me to go beyond my limits… and sometimes ropes.
10. I get to share it with some of my best friends.
11. Fresh mountain air.
12. It clears my mind.
13. It challenges me to set new goals for myself.
14. It gives me the desire to try new things like surfing, wakeboarding, and longboarding.
15. When the lifts stop, Happy Hour starts.
16. I found my passion. Snowboarding is bae.
17. It takes me places I otherwise never would have thought to go.
18. It brings people together.
19. It’s given us the classics, like Out Cold and the opening clip from Extreme Days
20. It makes me happy.
truly experience what it means to be stoked.


Tuesday, November 1, 2016

Clipless Bike Pedals for Commuting by Bike

If you think fancy cycling shoes and clipless bike pedals are only for serious road racers and mountain bikers, think again. Even if you only put in a handful of miles on your way to work, using specific shoes and bike pedals have benefits, including increased speed (and who doesn’t want that!).

The skinny on clipless bike pedals If you’re pinching pennies, just started riding a bike or don’t ride very often, flat pedals are still a sound solution. But if you want to get a little more serious about cycling, then consider going with clipless bike pedals. Just as ski boots clip into a ski binding, clipless bike pedals are used with special shoes that have a cleat attached at the sole of the foot. Push the cleat onto the pedal to engage it and then kick or twist your heel out to the side to “unclip” and free your foot. The good news is that most clipless bike pedals are adjustable, so when you’re just starting out, you can adjust the pedal to disengage under very little force. Most clipless bike pedals also have a certain degree of float, meaning your feet can move a few degrees from side-to-side while still clipped in. This float is your knee’s best friend and allows the body to move naturally.

Swap bike pedals, go faster If you’ve ever lost control of your pedal and suffered a serious scrape to the shin, you’ve experienced firsthand one of the bummers of flat pedals. Clipless bike pedals allow riders to shift positions or navigate obstacles without their feet slipping. One of the major benefits of going with clipless bike pedals, however, is that it increases the efficiency of the power transfer between the rider and the bike. Essentially you’ll be wasting less energy and putting more of it into flying forward. Better pedaling efficiency means the potential to go faster or to break through a headwind using less power.
  
Shopping for clipless bike pedals
Buying clipless bike pedals and shoes can feel overwhelming. There are cleats and shoes with two, three and four bolts. Some are recessed into the shoe and other cleats are thick, making walking any distance nearly impossible (as well as comical). If you’re mainly using the shoes for commuting or touring, stick with mountain bike or casual style shoes. Prices vary, but the more expensive ones tend to be lighter, well vented and stiffer. It’s important to find a shoe that fits well and complements your riding style. Most of these shoes will have a two cleat SPD hole pattern on the bottom and are great for commuting because the cleat is recessed, so you won’t be stepping on it off the bike. On the other hand, many road cyclists prefer cleats that aren’t recessed and stiffer shoes for the most efficient power transfer. However, these cleats are bulky and aren’t recommended for walking very far.

Before you clip in
Going clipless can be daunting at first. Just like any other skill, it takes practice. Before hitting the bike lane or stopping at a busy intersection, take some time to practice clipping in and out repeatedly. This is best done on soft grass. It will take some time before clipping out becomes second nature. Since your feet are held in one position on the bike, it’s also important to be sure your bike fit is spot on. Ask someone at your bike shop to check that your cleats are properly positioned and if you experience any pain, get your bike fit checked out right away.

Wednesday, October 26, 2016

  3 things to bring skiing

The ubiquity of smartphones means that almost everyone these days is carrying powerful computing technology in their pocket. On the mountain this amounts to having a vertical feet tracking, trail mapping, video-taking device already at your disposal. When you’re planning to ski, I recommend bringing these four accessories so you can take the capabilities of your phone to the next level:

Touchscreen winter gloves

You do not have to make a trade-off between staying warm and using your phone. Gloves that can conduct your body’s electricity through it’s fibers mean your screen can react to your touch without actually exposing your skin.
The best touchscreen winter gloves according to review site, The Wirecutter, are the Glider Gloves. I’ve personally owned a pair of the Agloves for two seasons now and they work really well as an inner liner, hanging out outside at the base, or even during lunch.

Waterproof phone case

Falls happen, even to the best of us. While it’s never fun to yard sale, it’s even 
 less fun to damage your phone in the process. I recommend you make sure your phone is in a case so you don’t shatter your screen; there are too many moving parts if you have a spill. Even better, you might consider investing in a waterproof case. Your phone will thank you the next time you end up inside a snowbank.
I’ve personally used a Pelican ProGear case on my iPhone 5 which includes a screen protector that has helped keep dust and snow away from my precious phone. I also know Otterbox has a great selection of cases dedicated to waterproofing and protecting your smartphone.

Battery pack

A full day of GPS tracking, checking your EpicMix stats, taking photos, recording videos, and keeping in touch with your friends might start to wear down your phone battery. Throwing a small battery pack and a charging cable in your backpack to charge up during lunch can ensure your phone will be on all the way through après.
The easiest solution is to bring your existing charger cable and buy a cheap USB battery pack from Monoprice. I’ve used this one for nearly a year and it’s worked out really well for both me and those that travel with me and want some extra juice. If you’re not feeling generous, you may consider just finding a battery pack case which doubles up as a charger and a protective layer for your phone.

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

The Great Bike Debate: 26-inch-wheels vs 29er

If you want to stir a lively debate among cyclists, simply ask which is better: 26 inches or 29er? Many mountain bikers will extol the virtues of one wheel size over another, but what benefits do larger wheels offer commuters?

700c vs. 29 inches
Many commuters have been rolling to work on 29-inch-wheels for years.  All road and cyclocross bikes are built with 700c wheels, which are 29 inches. However, 700c wheels are designed to accommodate a thinner tire. Many come in widths ranging from 18 to 23 millimeters, with touring tires ranging from 25 to 28 millimeters. Wider tires offer a plusher and smoother ride, but the additional rolling resistance results in slower speeds. On the flipside, the wheels on a 29er are beefier and were originally designed for off-road use. The tires are designed to roll over obstacles, while making more contact with the ground. Mountain bike tires are much thicker than a 700c, with widths typically falling between 1.8 to 2.4 inches.
The 29er
A 29er is more than just a wheel size. The bike’s overall design and geometry varies as well. Because of the larger wheels, the bike tends to accommodate taller riders and these frames offer greater ground clearance for a rider to navigate obstacles. The bikes also have a varied geometry and will handle differently than a 26-inch mountain bike or a 700c road, touring or cyclocross bike.
Big-wheel advantages
Companies such as Surly have caught on to the 29er craze, offering bikes, such as the Karate Monkey, that are designed for commuters and fixed-gear trail riding. For bicycle commuters, 29-inch-wheels help dampen bumpy roads and potholes, are often a more comfortable option for larger rides, and they tend to carry a rider’s momentum better than a 26-inch-wheel. These larger wheels also make it easier to roll over soft surfaces. A fatter tire increases the bike’s traction and corning ability, making it a more stable ride, especially in inclement weather or on gravel and dirt paths.
Other considerations
Any thicker tire will carry a speed disadvantage and a larger wheel will also increase the bike’s weight. While 29ers help carry a rider’s momentum, they’re slower to accelerate and brake.
Bicycle Trailers and 29ers
Many bicycle trailers will fit bicycle’s with 29 inch wheels, but always ensure that if they attach via rear axle, they will accommodate the wheel size of the bicycle.

Sunday, October 9, 2016

How to Deal With A Car – Bike Accident | Bicycle Safety

Most car – bike accidents happen in the blink of an eye. Sometimes drivers are distracted or they turn in front of a bicycle.  Bicycle safety is your responsibility regardless of how the scene plays out, it’s
important to keep calm and know your rights.
Arm yourself in advance. You should always carry a copy of your health/insurance card and identification when you ride. Some cyclists opt for an identification bracelet such as a Road ID, which lists emergency contacts and vital health information. Carry a cell phone too. Besides calling for help, cell phones also have a camera— a handy device for documenting any damage.
Keep your cool. You may be terrified, angry or in pain immediately following a bike accident, but don’t confront the driver or lose your temper. According to cycling attorney Bob Mionske, anything you say to the driver can be used against you when an insurance claims adjuster considers your case.
Call the police. Be sure the motorist doesn’t flee the scene. Note and record any details about the motorist and the car, including the license plate number. Ask the motorist for a driver’s license and insurance information. Record this as well.
Give your statement. Even if you are injured, it’s vital that a police officer records your account of what happened. Check the statement for accuracy and be sure the officer prepares an accident report. Also gather names, addresses and phone numbers of any witnesses.
Don’t downplay your injuries. Just because you feel okay doesn’t mean you’re injury free. Get checked out by the paramedics or at the ER. This helps prove that you were in an accident and can be used to strengthen your claim.
Document the damage. Not only should you take photos of any injuries you sustain, but you should also snap pictures of your bike and any property damage caused by the accident. Have your bike shop document the damage, assess the value of your bike and any accessories damaged in the crash, and prepare a signed estimate. Mionske suggests waiting to make any bike repairs until you have reached an agreement with the insurance company. In the meantime, save any documents related to the crash.
Don’t rush a settlement. If you plan to file a claim, be sure to speak with an attorney before making your statement. Also check your state’s statute of limitations to find out the deadline for filing a lawsuit. Be sure to give yourself enough time to know the extent of your injuries and any damage before trying to settle the case.

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Running 101: How Often Should You Run?

How often should you run is one of the most important questions to consider before you start any training.
 
Frequency—or how often you run—is one of three fundamental variables of training. The other two are duration (how far you run) and intensity (how fast you
run). Research shows a person needs to run at least a couple of times a week to get any progressive benefit from it. Many elite runners run as often as 14 times per week. How often should you run?
There is no single right answer to this question. While considerations such as your goals, life schedule, and running experience can and should be used to establish boundaries of too much and too little running frequency for you, within these boundaries you can choose any of a number of different running frequencies based on personal preferences and needs and get the results you seek.

The Minimum

Let’s first consider the boundary on the bottom end. The most important piece of advice I can give you in this regard is that it is necessary to do some form of exercise almost every day to optimize your general health. Every man, woman, and child on earth, whether a competitive or recreational runner, whether a runner at all or a non-runner, should aim to exercise every day. The research is very clear on this score. If you exercise daily you will have lower risk of chronic disease, be leaner, and live longer than if you exercise just a few times a week.
This doesn’t mean you have to run every day, however. If you care about running enough to seek some form of progress, you need to run at least three times per week. On the other days you can swim, do yoga, lift weights, whatever. However, if you choose to run only three times per week—and if, again, you care enough about your running to want to improve—you need to make those runs really count. Most weeks those runs should be a tempo run to develop intensive endurance, a speed workout to build speed, and a long run to increase raw endurance. The popular FIRST marathon training program developed at Furman University prescribes a weekly training schedule comprising the three types of runs just mentioned plus two cross-training workouts. In my opinion this system defines the minimum effective training protocol for runners.


The primary reason to run only three times per week is to minimize injury risk. As we all know, running has a high injury rate, and the rate of injury increases with running volume. Many runners cannot run every day without getting injured. If you are such a runner, or if you simply fear getting injured if you run daily, then stick to a schedule of three to four purposeful runs plus a few cross-training workouts per week and feel confident that you are not sacrificing any of the performance you would get from running daily (presuming you actually could run daily without injury).
The most common running frequency for non-elite competitive runners is six to seven times per week (that is, daily with one scheduled day off or daily with rest days taken only as needed). I don’t know of any research addressing the matter, but my experience-based belief is that some runners are better off running daily and not cross-training, others are better off running three or four times a week and cross-training on non-running days, and many runners are able to fare equally well on either schedule. Use factors such as your durability (can you handle daily running?) and your personal preferences (would you rather chew glass than do any form of exercise besides running?) to set your personal routine.

Running Twice Per Day

Only the most serious runners habitually run more than seven times per week, which necessarily entails a certain amount of doubling, or running twice a day. Personally, I think more runners should consider it, as some magical things can happen when you push your running volume beyond the amount you can practically squeeze into one run a day.
There’s a simple rule that runners can use to decide whether or not they should double: If you plan to consistently run more than 70 miles per week, double at least once or twice a week. The rationale behind this rule is that every runner’s training schedule must include some easy runs, and if you try to pack more than 70 miles into just six or seven runs each week, none of those runs can be very easy. You can double if you want to on a schedule of fewer than 70 miles per week, but it only really becomes necessary when you run more.
As you continue to add mileage to your weekly schedule, continue to add doubles as necessary to keep your average run distance from creeping above 10 miles. So, for example, if you run 100 miles a week you should run at least 10 times.


Ease into doubling by inserting one or two very short, easy runs into your schedule. Gradually increase the distance of these runs and add more doubles until you reach your weekly mileage target, but keep the pace easy in all of these extra runs. Never try to perform two hard runs in a single day.
Some runners do an easy run in the morning and a longer and/or faster run in the evening. Others do the opposite. It’s a matter of personal preference.

Cross-Training

Just as a casually competitive runner can exercise more than three or four times a week without running more than three or four times a week, a serious competitive runner can exercise twice a day without always running twice a day. The question is, should he or she? While there are many examples of very successful runners who run 14 times a week and never cross-train, I believe that in most cases, runners who train nine or more times a week are better off running seven times and lifting weights and doing plyometrics two or three times than they are making every workout a run.

RELATED: The 8 Basic Types Of Runs
In fact, there’s research proving this. In a famous Norwegian study, elite runners improved their 3K race times by replacing 30 percent of their running with plyometrics—not adding plyometrics to the running they were already doing, but replacing a chunk of their running with plyos. Based on such evidence, I advise runners who train nine to 10 times per week to perform two or three strength/plyo workouts and run the rest of the time. There’s no need to do strength and plyometrics training more than two or three times per week, so if you add any workouts beyond 10 per week, the rest can and should be runs or non-impact cardio alternatives to running such as cycling.
What’s the absolute maximum amount of training any runner should consider doing? Many elite runners thrive on a schedule of two runs per day every day plus three strength/plyo workouts per week. If you can handle all that, more power to you!

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Best Commuter Bike, a Cyclocross?

Can a cyclocross bike become the best commuter bike for your daily bike route? If you’ve ever caught a glimpse of cyclists pedalling through mud and quickly mounting and dismounting their bikes to hop obstacles, then you’ve witnessed a
cyclocross race. The fall and early winter sport is quickly gaining in popularity, as are the cyclocross-specific bikes used by racers. A bike that rips through and sheds mud, gains speed from skinny tires and can handle whatever Mother Nature throws its way? Sounds like the best commuter bike.

The quick and dirty

At first glance, a cyclocross (or cross bike) closely resembles its cousin, the road bike. But there are some major differences. The frame has a higher bottom bracket than a road bike, perfect for navigating obstacles and has a slightly different geometry, as it’s made to be ridden in a more uptight position. Another major difference is the brakes. While road bikes rely on calipers, cross bikes have cantilever or disc brakes, which offer more stopping power in the elements. Cyclocross bikes also tend to use slightly wider, knobby tires to provide traction through mud, sand, water and snow.

Convert it into the best commuter bike

 It doesn’t take much to transform a cross bike into the best commuter bike. Look for a bike frame that’s aluminum or steel. Cross bike frames are strong and durable, yet lighter than most touring bike frames. Find a bike frame that comes with plenty of braze-ons and be sure to add fenders to help keep your bike commute dry. Install racks or panniers for hauling extra gear. Most cross bikes should have space for these add-ons. Since you’re not racing the bike, weight is not a major concern and you should also find a saddle that’s comfortable for longer rides. Lastly, unless you’re planning to ride gravel bike paths or rough dirt roads, consider swapping out the knobby tires in favor of slicks. These bike tires will increase your cruising speed and ensure a smoother ride. Find a bike tire that’s durable and fairly flat resistant.

Other cross bike considerations

If you’re buying a new bike you may have the option of disc brakes, a fairly new addition to cross bikes. Most cantilever brakes are fine for bike commuters, but if you often commute by bike in wet, slushy weather you may want to consider investing in disc brakes, which offer more reliable and effective stopping power. Before you buy a cross bike also consider if the geometry will be comfortable for you. The more road bike-like position will stretch out your back, shoulders, neck and arms more than a touring bike, commuter bike or mountain bike, which put riders in a more upright position. If you have any neck, back or shoulder problems you may want a bike that’s less aggressive. To learn more about Cyclocross, check out Cyclocross Magazine.