Dropper Seatpost

New technology and deviation from the norm are often met with reticence among those who have charged themselves with upholding cycling’s “traditional values.” Two recent examples include the furor over mountain bike wheel sizes and resistance to the inevitable change to road bike disc brakes. One technological advancement which has been whole-heartedly welcomed, however, is the adjustable-height, or “dropper” seat post. In fact, dropper posts have been embraced so enthusiastically that riders are willingly shelling out hundreds of dollars to add up to a pound of weight to their bike. Can the expense, both in cash and grams, be worth the performance gains? Well, once you try one, you’ll likely never want to ride without one again; which is why we present this guide to dropper posts, with the goal of helping you decide which one is right for you.
While the advantages of using a dropper post are many, there are only two real negatives, but
they are notable: cost and weight. With the most affordable posts costing $260, and the high-end offerings hovering around $500, the price of entry into the dropper post market makes any argument moot for many riders. Also, the act of weighing down your bike with an extra 400 grams of metal and hydraulic fluid by replacing a part that already does its job just fine is anathema to the dedicated XC riders among us.
If you have been saving your pennies and don’t keep track of your bike’s weight to the gram, then you are probably ready to enjoy the benefits bestowed by dropper posts. In this writer’s opinion, the dropper post is no less a game-changer than sticky rubber tire compounds, enabling
increased overall speed, flow, and fun on any ride.
Lowering seat posts for descending is nothing new, as the added clearance allows you to get lower and farther back on your bike for better high-speed control, the ability to use the length of your bike for optimal weight distribution, and clearance on jumps and whoops. Dropper posts allow you to lower your saddle on the fly, and also fine-tune saddle height for “in between terrain,” which is flat enough to pedal but requires maximized bike handling for the most fun. Plus, when short, steep, technical sections appear on the trail, instead of dismounting before and after to lower and raise your seat post, or conversely fumbling through with a raised saddle, a flick of the thumb will have you crouched and able to attack the section and immediately get on the gas after. When climbing, instead of sliding up to the saddle’s nose on short steep efforts, which effectively lowers your saddle height, some riders drop the saddle a touch in order to stay seated on the comfortable end of the saddle. Dropper posts enable you to optimize your position on the bike in any situation, enabling better traction, increased responsiveness, and maximizing fun!

While there are several important distinctions between dropper posts, the most important feature to consider is the difference between fixed and infinite positioning. Fixed posts generally have three preset positions to choose from; fully extended, fully lowered, and somewhere in the middle, usually closer to the top than the bottom. While three positions is the norm, there is at least one manufacturer with a four-position fixed post. Conversely, seat posts with infinite adjustability can be positioned anywhere in the post’s range of travel. These posts allow minute differences in saddle height for varied terrain, and don’t require “hunting” to find the middle spot. Most fixed position posts have to be finessed into the middle position—time which could be spent pedaling—while infinite posts will immediately go wherever you want them.

In addition to deciding on an infinite or fixed travel post, you’ll have to choose between internal/stealth versus external cable routing and remote or post-mounted actuation. Here’s a hint for the latter—go with the remote option. Remote actuation levers are mounted on the handlebars next to the grips, making raising or lowering the post a risk-free, immediately executable operation. Conversely, actuators mounted on the seat post require you to take one hand off the bars and reach under your saddle to lift a lever. This makes fine-tuning saddle height much harder than it should be, discouraging use of the post. While actuator location is up to you, your frame largely decides between internal or external cable routing. If it’s equipped with an internal cable path, go with a compatible post. Your frame will look much cleaner and you won’t have to worry about cable rub marring your bike’s finish. If you decide to go with an externally routed post, there are a few factors to weigh. First, which location attachment is best? Generally, cables are either attached at the seat post’s saddle clamp or on the seat post tube itself, usually just above the frame’s seat post clamp. Attachment points at the saddle clamp force the cable housing to move up and down with the saddle. This can cause the housing to rub against your frame during movement, or possibly make the cable to bend outward and contact your leg or catch trailside debris when the post is compressed. Attachment at the post’s tube fixes the cable housing in a permanent position, free from movement when the saddle is raised or lowered. This attachment lets you precisely fit housing to your frame and ensures the housing will never rotate outward.

Next, decide on your travel needs, determined by frame size and riding style. Longer travel bikes benefit from a longer travel seat post. These bikes will usually be tackling varied and technical terrain, which is easier to negotiate with a lower center of gravity coupled with the ability to get farther off the back of the bike. Larger sized frames will almost always require longer travel posts to facilitate proper leg extension in the raised position. Sometimes, 150 millimeter travel posts will be too long for smaller sized frames. If weight is a concern, seat posts with less travel, thus shorter, are generally lighter as well.

By now you are probably ready to lay down your credit card and wait for your new post to arrive, but there’s one more item to discuss, and that is the internal mechanism of your post; hydraulic, mechanical, or a hybrid of the two. Full hydraulic systems, like the Rock Shox Reverb, require bleeding to maintain long-lasting, like-new performance. Don’t let this scare you off, however, because the bleed procedure is easier than a brake bleed. Hydraulic posts make up for the necessity of bleeding by offering smooth, infinitely adjustable travel, and do not require the use of a shift cable between the remote lever and post. Mechanical posts use springs and locking mechanisms to vary travel, and are usually in the fixed position category. Hybrid seat posts, such as the Kind Shock LEV and Integra, along with Thomson Elite Dropper Posts use mechanical actuation to open and close a hydraulic cartridge for height adjustment. This set-up offers infinite adjustment, smooth travel, and easy maintenance, since the hydraulic cartridge is closed and does not require bleeding. Some hybrid posts, like the Kind Shock e10, feature an air/spring hybrid system. Cables are used to remote actuate hybrid and mechanical posts, and are subject to the same degradation's in performance as shifter cables. When deciding between hydraulic, mechanical, or a hybrid post, consider whether you would rather change cables every few months or perform a bleed twice a year.

Cyclings Facts of life

There was a time when a boy approaching manhood would be sat down for a chat with his Father to be told a tale about birds and bees. The internet has pretty much done away with the need for those conversations, although some may say
that they are needed now more than ever. There may also be a need for young cyclists to be prepared for life as an adult bike rider and those conversations might revolve around some of the following :

Don’t expect it to be easy.

Cycling and boxing are the Worlds two toughest sports. You need to be physically and mentally strong. There will be days when you feel like giving up, but those are the days when persistence breeds champions. There will be times when you will be hurt and in pain but physical pain heals and is easier to take than the mental pain of feeling like a quitter. Nothing lasts for ever. All pain passes. What remains is the satisfaction of giving your all and knowing that you have done yourself justice.

Winning and Loosing.

Know that both of these are opposite sides of the same coin. Don’t gloat when you win and don’t beat yourself up and feel depressed when you loose. Enjoy the feeling of victory enough to make you want more of it. Use the frustration of loosing as a catalyst to make you work harder in order to avoid it in the future. Learn from both but remember that you will learn more from loosing than winning so long as you search for the lessons.

Dreaming.

Dream the biggest and boldest dreams that your mind can possibly imagine. Dream them as vividly and as realistically as possible. Place no limits on your dreams. Know that dreams are the road map for success. All great champions have visualised and dreamed about winning the Worlds greatest races many more times than they have ever raced in them. It is always better to dream and to aim for the top of the mountain than to be ‘realistic’ and aim for the lower slopes.

Drugs.

The World is full of drugs. Those used in hospitals to treat sick people are good. Those sold on street corners, in some unreputable gyms and from the boot of a low slung car are bad. Being a cyclist in training gives you the credibility to say no to your peers in social occasions. Cycling is a tough sport so you are not saying no because your Mammy told you. You are saying no because you are an athlete with a future. Some athletes try to cheat their way to success using drugs but these are always victories based on a foundation of quicksand. It is absolutely possible to win at the very highest levels 100% clean, no matter what the sensationalist tabloid press will tell you. Clean victories build your self esteem and lead to a better future on and off the bike. If you want to be able to look yourself in the mirror, and to sleep at night remember that an honest mans pillow is his peace of mind.

Food and hydration.

You would not put Diesel into a Petrol engine so always be conscious of putting the best fuel into your body as much as possible. Moderation is key when it comes to treats. A few every now and then is OK in order to avoid the feeling of missing out but too many can lead to ‘lardassness’. A varied diet is good and the less processed the better. The fresher the better. Food that goes stale quickly is good. Food that never goes stale is bad. Drink plenty of water, especially the evening before big training days or race days.

People.

Take it that most people are good and honourable. It’s easier to go through life like that, both on and off the bike. But when someone breaks your trust and does not keep their word take note. Not to get revenge but just to avoid it happening again in the future. Until you pedal in another mans shoes you do not know the background to his decisions. Make friends easily. Those that you make on the bike will be friends for life. Just like Navy Seals who have fought alongside each other there is a bond of common respect between those who have suffered together on the bike.

Weather.

Use it to your advantage. Train in all conditions in order to be ready to compete in all conditions. By doing this you will have beaten 50% of the competition before even crossing the start line on wet or windy days. Training in bad conditions will also improve your bike handling. It will also make you feel satisfied after a training spin rather than feeling frustrated for missing out. With clothing like the ONDA Full Membrane range now available there is no excuse. You will not melt in the rain. Keep pedalling in the wind to maintain control over your bike. Relish the heat of the sun on really hot days. But when there is ice or snow, either head off road or stick to the indoor trainer.

Get yourself an anthem.

When days get hard and you are really suffering it is important to control what is going around between your two ears. Positive self talk is good but an uplifting song or anthem that will help drive you on is better. Not some wishy washy Westlife love song but something motivational. The words need to make sense to you. Stephen Roche once spoke of having the Rocky theme ‘Eye of the Tiger’ as his anthem. Eminems ‘loose yourself’ is another good one. The ones that boxers use heading for the ring can often be a good starting point if you don’t have one already. My favourite is Minutes to Memories by John Cougar Mellencamp :

This is my life,

It’s what I’ve chosen to do,

There’s no free ride,

No one said it’d be easy,

Suck it up,

Tough it out,

And be the best you can’

A Guide to Dog-Friendly Breckenridge

Take a gondola ride

Not many people know that Breckenridge Ski Resort’s gondola is pet-friendly — and free. Plus, in summer, the parking lot at its base is free.

Sadie, an American Eskimo,

waits by the gondola.

The gondola glides over Cucumber Gulch, a designated wildlife preserve, which provides a habitat for the boreal toad (which is state-endangered), moose, deer, elk, beavers, and even mountain lions. Plus, more than 47 species of birds use the area. As a result, off-leash dogs are one of the greatest threats; by swimming in the ponds or chasing smaller wildlife, they have disturbed wildlife in the past, and so, while they can enjoy the ride over the preserve, they can’t actually go in the 77 acres of wetlands.
The good news: Dogs are allowed on every other town trail, so there are plenty of places to hike. And, dogs can wander around the Base of Peaks 7 and 8, once they exit the gondola.

Main Street

Within town limits, dogs must be leashed, but they’re allowed to walk pretty much anywhere (see restrictions under “where dogs can’t go”). Outside of town limits, dogs can run free, as long as they respond to voice command.

A rescue dog, Nia, hangs out at For Pets Sake Thrift Store.

Most stores along Main Street, and Breckenridge in general, allow well-behaved dogs inside. If you’re not sure, just duck your head inside and ask. More than a few stores have their own dog-in-residence, who often acts as a mascot for the store.
One of the stores dogs are obviously welcome in is For Pets Sake Thrift Store, on 203 N. Main St. All purchases at the thrift shop, which offers everything from clothing to housewares, books and art, benefit homeless pets in need, through the Animal Rescue of the Rockies.

Carter Park

Carter Park’s dog park is the only place in Breckenridge town limits where you can let your pooch run free, and play with a bunch of other pups, too. It’s fully fenced, and there’s plenty of room, so you can sit with other dog owners, worry free.

Carter Park’s dog park is fully fenced, and the only place you can legally let your dog run free within town limits.

Follow the small signs to Carter Park, located four blocks east of Main Street, at the south end of High Street.

Bike path and trails

Dogs are allowed to follow the bike path, which parallels the river for quite awhile, but they must be leashed, even when the paved path leaves the town limits.
Breckenridge also provides plenty of hiking trails, including:
• Southside Trail, off of Boreas Pass Road
• Moonstone and Sunbeam trails, accessible from Carter Park
• Sawmill Trail, off Four O’Clock Road
• Trail Forest, near Shock Hill
• Peaks Trail, off the parking lot for the trail, located near the edge of Cucumber Gulch.
A map of the dog friendly trails can be found here.

A very well-behaved dog patiently waits for his owner on Main Street.

Where dogs can’t go

About the only places dogs can’t hang out is: Cucumber Gulch (see above section under “gondola,”), Breckenridge Golf Course, the fields at Kingdom Park (near the recreation center), and the Riverwalk Lawn.
Otherwise, Breckenridge is just waiting to be discovered with four paws, so take your dog for a walk through the nooks and crannies of Breckenridge.

How To Fly With A Bike

If your wheels must take wing, be prepared to pay for the privilege. Consider this your field guide to navigating everything from the ticket counter to baggage claim when you fly with a bike.

Be prepared to pay. That over-sized piece of baggage is going to cost you. Most airline fees fall in the range of $50 to $200 each way and Frontier Airlines is one of the few that’s waved its bike fee. Before you fly with a bike, check the airline’s policy and ensure that your packed bike case doesn’t exceed weight or size limits. If you’re flying domestically and your bike tab exceeds your plane ticket, look into shipping the bike instead. It may save you some money and hassle.

Disguise your bike.  Many cyclists reportedly bypass a bike fee by avoiding the dreaded “B” word unless asked specifically. Others were successful when they reported carrying “sports equipment.” Some of today’s soft cases don’t look as obvious as the plastic ones. If you have to go traditional with your case, try to at least avoid plastering it with a dozen bike related stickers or approaching the ticket counter with a helmet dangling from your backpack. Smile, be nice to the ticketing agent and keep your fingers crossed.

Pack smartly. In the event that your bike case is searched, you should avoid
keeping loose parts or tools in the case. These can easily fall out or rattle around. Don’t assume that the case will be handled with care and always pack your bike so it’s securely padded and protected. Wrap your frame and fork with foam pipe insulation for extra padding.  Pack your cargo carrier and/or bicycle trailer separately unless your bike bag can accommodate them.  Most cargo carriers, bike racks and bike trailers can be disassembled and packed into your checked luggage.
 
Carry the essentials. Always carry your shoes and pedals with you. Check things like tools to avoid having them confiscated by security and leave C02 cartridges and bike lubricants at home.

Know your rights. According to Bob Mionske, a lawyer who represents cyclists, it’s vital that you read the airline’s bike packing requirements before signing their liability waiver.  In the event of damage, the airline will only assume responsibility if the bike was packed exactly to the airline’s specifications. This might mean, for instance, that a cardboard bike box is not covered against damage. The baggage fee you pay is a shipping fee, not insurance. After your flight, check your bike for damage in baggage claim and report any problems immediately.

For a list of airline bike fees, visit http://www.airline-baggage-fees.com/sports/bikes/

Solo Hiking

Is Solo Hiking for You?

We humans are social animals. We normally prefer others around us and enjoy sharing experiences with others.
In some situations, some of us like to experience the world alone. If the empty,

open trail beckons to you, then solo hiking might be what you're looking for. Deciding to solo hike or not is completely your decision. Whether you go out alone, with a couple friends, or with a large group there are potential consequences with which you need to be prepared to deal.
Check out recent Lost Hikers and Deaths.

Benefits of Solo Hiking

Being out on the trail all by yourself can be very rewarding in many ways:

• Spiritual Health - Solitude allows time for self-examination, relaxation away from the rat race for awhile, and a chance to meditate, contemplate, or just zone out for miles at a time.
• Outdoor Skills - When part of a group, it is easy to rely on the skills of others to find your way, cook your food, keep you safe, and make all the tough decisions. Solo hiking relies on your own skills and knowledge. Ensuring you have the skills before going solo is key.
• Own Pace - A group can only move as fast as its slowest member. That means everyone is either going faster or slower than they would like to be. A solo hiker moves as fast as he desires and can alter his pace whenever he wants.
• Flexibility - Changes to your pace, camping location, route, rest breaks, and everything else having to do with the hike can be made as you want. There's no group buy-in required so you can hike your own hike. When significantly altering your route, it's important to inform someone of your new plans, just in case you need to be found.
• Challenge - Push yourself to hike faster, farther, or longer hours than you're used to. Build up to more difficult trails, uncomfortable weather, and rough environments.
• Meet your Fears - Many of us have fears that have little basis. Whether you're afraid of wild animals, heights, darkness, storms, being alone, or whatever, a solo hike can help you overcome those fears.
• Meet Nature - Hiking with a group, especially youth, there is not much hope of seeing any real wildlife. The noise, smell, and general invasion will drive most everything away. Just a short hike alone in the early morning will allow you to see many kinds of animals - a longer solo hike gives you even more opportunity.
  Any bit of nature that interests you can be observed. The group won't let you sit and watch flowers, butterflies, waterfalls, clouds, animal tracks, or falling leaves for long. Out on your own, you can spend your hours however you like.
• Responsibility - The solo hiker can say "I did it myself" when finished. Responsibility for the success of the adventure is completely his, as is the pride of completion. Along the way, responsibility for minimizing impact, caring for the trail, staying safe, and being self-sufficient is also his alone.

Concerns of Solo Hiking

Travel alone does have some potential drawbacks which you should address long before stepping foot on the trail:

• Loneliness - The mental drain of isolation is a huge drawback to solo hiking. Long distance trail hikers fail to finish because of injury, poor planning, but most often because of loneliness - the days with no one to talk with become long and boring. Honestly assessing how this will affect you and how you'll deal with it is a crucial planning step. Will an electronic music player or book reader keep you sane? Do you enjoy being alone for days at a time already?
  This is different than living in an apartment alone. On the trail, there's no city noise, background traffic, or other white noise that lets you know you're in civilization.
• Heavy Heart - With someone else around, they can encourage and support you when you're feeling down, tired, or grumpy. When it's just you, a bad case of the blues might be enough to send you off the trail and back home. This is the bane of thru-hikers.
• Heavy Load - No one will be around to carry part of the gear. It's all on your shoulders. But, since there's only one person, there should be very little extra gear. Your shelter, kitchen, water treatment, first aid kit, and navigation items could be split among multiple people, but the rest increases directly as the group size grows.

Real Dangers

Whether alone or not, there are real dangers of being in the wild. Being prepared to deal with these is your responsibility when heading out:

• Getting Lost - With no one to check your map reading and direction finding, losing your way is the most common problem for solo hikers. Just take a look at the Lost Hikers recent news and you'll see that it happens often. Learn all about wilderness navigation and practice it often before setting out on your own. There's a good beginner site at Compass Dude to start you in the right direction :-)
  Global Positioning Systems (GPS) are handy and efficient, but a map and compass should always be ready as a backup. Even with good navigation skills, nature can turn you around with wind, blizzards, fog, overgrown paths, and snow cover. Still the best thing to do when lost is S T O P - Stop Think Observe Plan.
  Whatever you do, don't expect your cellphone to save you.
• Humans - Human attacks are a potential problem, especially for solo female hikers. The closer to populated areas you hike, the more probable you'll encounter a weirdo. Be friendly but not outgoing to people you meet. Give an impression that your hiking partner should be along soon. Pepper spray might be something to take with you if you are concerned with strangers.
• Animals - Animals may attack you in order to protect themselves, their young, or their food. Keep your eyes and ears open.
  Large animal attacks, such as bear, cougar, or wolf are extremely rare. If you hike in their habitat, take some time to educate yourself on their behavior and how you should handle yourself. Hear are a couple starter pages about bears, cougars, wolves.
  Eating your meal on the trail a mile before you set up camp and then storing your smellable items securely solves most problems.
  
  You will more likely be bothered by insects, rodents, or an occasional snake. Insects bite, sting, and bother enough to make a hike completely miserable. Timing a hike to evade dusk and dawn, wearing appropriate clothing or netting, and using insect repellent will take care of most insects. Being careful not to disturb nests or hives is also a good idea.
  You might come across a snake sunning in the trail. Keep your eyes and ears open. If you encounter one, give it a wide berth and wait for it to slither off the trail. If you get bit, use your first aid skills to treat the bite and get to medical help.
  Most probably, you will have problems with mice, chipmunks, or raccoons seeking out your food. They can quickly chew through your pack and cause a real mess. Store your food and pack securely to prevent this problem.
• Natural Events - Wind, rain, snow, lightning, sun, flood, earthquake, falling rocks, falling trees, wildfire - a long list of natural events that can be annoyances or catastrophies. Knowing how to read the weather is an important skill. Having proper gear to protect from adverse weather makes sense. Make camp in safe areas - not on high places, open places, close to cliffs, under large limbs, or close to creeks.
  There is little you can do about some natural events, such as earthquake, tsunami, or wildfire, but you can do some disaster preparedness.
• Injuries - No matter how well you prepare nor how careful you are, an injury is always a real possibility in the wild. As long as you hike steadily on a well-groomed trail, the risk is minimal. But, rough terrain, water crossings, rock scrambling, cooking, and other risy tasks can result in stumbles and falls, burns, and cuts. Of course, an adequate first aid kit is an essential part of any hiking pack but the knowledge on how to use it and how to improvise other aid is even more essential. Before going solo, Wilderness First Aid training should be completed. You'll be the only one around so you'll need to know what to do and how to do it.

Solo Hiking Advice and Tips

OK, so there's good reasons to go solo, things that might make it not so fun, and some trouble you can get into. How about a few tips and tidbits to help keep you safe when you finally decide to give solo hiking a try:

• Be realistic about your skills, pain threshold, endurance, and what you enjoy. If group hiking is more fun, stick with that.
• Think of yourself as a person that you are with - you are not alone, you are with yourself! You can share the nature you see, hear, taste, and feel with yourself. You will have the memories of your experiences forever and you can recall them any time.
• Make your hike FUN and SPECIAL - take a chunk of chocolate for a break at 5 miles, or plan on an ice cream sundae when you make it to the next town.
• Know the area where you will hike - research weather patterns, trails, bailout points, wildlife range, elevations, water sources, private properties.
• Stay on the Trail - cross-country travel can be exciting but damages the environment and makes it difficult to find you, just in case.
• Take baby steps - short day hikes, overnighter trips, weekend outings, week-long backpacking, then long distance treks.
• Become confident - this is different than arrogant. Arrogance is an attitude of superiority while confidence is faith that you will act in the right way because you have skills. Read, ask questions, practice skills, take baby steps, know how to use your gear, and finally take longer hikes.
• Think through "What If" scenarios - what if the campsite is occupied, the stove breaks, the water filter breaks, my foot breaks, I lose my map or drop my compass, a bear/wolverine/cougar crosses my path or enters camp, the trail is closed, it rains for 1, 2, 3, 4 days, it snows, ... Don't waste time on farfetched scenarios, like snow in Florida on a June hike, but work your way through everything you can think of that might go wrong.
• Make detailed plans - trail maps, weather forecast and seasonal weather, food requirements, expected mileage, and day-to-day plans will ensure you have longer hikes well planned.
• Leave a travel itinerary with someone back home. Check in with a ranger station or other land manager at or near the trailhead and tell them your plans.
• Think each trip through in your mind - using topo maps or Google Earth, visualize how you'll be hiking along, where the steep sections are, where there's forest, meadow, sage, or rock, when you'll be on a windy, open ridge or in a sheltered woods.
• Get a feel for direction - at any point in time, you should be able to say, "North is that way" and be generally correct. Feeling the time of day and general direction of the sun is all it takes. Understanding where you are on your map, knowing where you want to be going, and having a feel for your direction will alert you to "something's not right" quickly if you take a wrong turn.
  This sense of direction is very difficult for some - if that's your case, you might be better off not going solo.
• Read trail journals of past hikers. Learn from their experiences and try to visualize yourself in their situations.
• Use a tracking or signaling device. Spot Messenger or DeLorme InReach are two electronic devices that tell folks back home where you are and allow you to send Check-In or Help messages.

Old School or New School training, which one is for you?

There are many different ways that any cyclist can go about their training, but in general they can basically be broken down into two, Old School and New School.
Old school is all about feel and experience. New school is more about heart rate and power, but how do they differ out on the road? Lets take a look.

Speed training 

 

New School 20 minute warm up followed by 5 minutes at 280 watts or a heart rate of 164 bpm. Stay seated and maintain form. Take a 30 second break at 90 watts and let your heart rate return to 112 bpm then repeat as before 3 times. Then do a 20 minute warm down. Upload to Strava, Garmin Connect, Training Peaks.

Old School
Go down the road and meet the lads, turn and then go flat out for as long as you can in the knowledge that the bike will surely explode beneath you if the speed drops below 4okph just like Keanu Reeves in that movie with a bus. Even if it doesn’t explode the roars from the guy behind, telling you to ‘Drive on ta fook’ will have much the same effect. Keep doing this for about an hour. Then on the way home get half wheeled all the way, by the guy who was sitting on. Get home and take out a biro and spiral notebook. Fill out 3 lines with pertinent information. 60K. Hard. Getting stronger.

Sprint training.

New School.
20 minute warm up followed by 10 x 30 second efforts at 485 watts. Take a 90 second rest period between each effort. 20 minute warm down at 100 rpm.

Old School.
Go down the road and meet the lads. Sprint flat out for every single yellow sign post all day long. When you are beginning to tire resort to diversionary tactics. Look, there’s a Ferrari over there. As soon as the head turns, jump on the pedals and don’t look back. This only works twice, then you need something extra. Wow, Look at that for a short skirt. Again, as soon as the head turns you jump and don’t look back, although by now you are getting passed before the sign post is reached. Laugh all the way home.

Hill training.

New School.
Warm up for 20 minutes. Find a hill 5km long with a 7% gradient. Then do an effort seated at 370 watts. Turn, ride back down and repeat 4 times.  Warm down for 20 minutes.

Old School.
Go down the road and meet the lads. Hit for the mountain road. Try to make it look like you’re not trying, but put the squeeze on as soon as you see a bit of pain on anyones face. This builds and builds until it’s full on warfare. Launch an attack and see who follows. Get dropped when you get caught and claw your way back on again. 10 meters off the back hold your speed and recover. When you feel OK again close the gap and jump as soon as you get back on when they may have forgotten about you. Continue all the way to the top. Sprint for the yellow sign at the top and flake it down the other side trying to get a new maximum speed on your little computer thingy with all the wires. Give whoever was dropped a slagging. No mercy but no cruelty behind it either. Everyone knows that it could be them next week.

New School or Old School which is best? New School is the best way to train, will give the best results for the time allocated and instant feedback from the screens on the handlebars. Team Sky, Chris Froome and the majority of professionals now train that way.
But there are still those who still like it Old School. Those like John Degenkolb who do long steady miles in training and use racing as their way to sharpen up. Old school riders listen to their bodies and know instinctively by feel how to pace themselves and how they are going. But this takes a long time to learn.
Old School is probably more childlike and more fun. It brings you right back to those days as a teenager when you just loved everything about cycling and all it involved. It was all a mad craic.
Which is best for you? Only you can decide, but it’s probably no harm to have a little bit of both.

Hiking Packs

Pack It In, Pack It Out

  On a hike, everything you want or need will be carried with you. If you can get by with a granola bar and bottle of water, then you've got a light load. That camera, tripod, cellphone, bottle of wine, kitchen sink will all add extra weight right on your back. So, everything you leave at home is weight off your back. Those things you do need to bring should be carried as comfortably and easily as possible.

Choosing an adequate, well-fitted pack will make your hikes much more enjoyable. There are three general sizes of pack you might consider for your hiking trips. Depending on the size of your group, length of your trip, weather, and extra gear you need for activities, you should choose the smallest size required.

• Fanny Pack

  
    Also called waist packs, lumbar packs, or hip packs, these small pouches are intended to carry personal belongings on day hikes. Fanny packs are light and very useful. They have many different features such as built in water bottle holders, compartments for different gear, and loops to hang stuff.
  You can wear a fanny pack around your waist, draped over a shoulder, or by the handle in case you get tired of carrying it any particular way. They are meant to be carried in the small of your back, but I sometimes spin mine around to the front and carry it there when I need to get at stuff while hiking.
  Be aware that overloading a fanny pack may become uncomfortable because it will sag and bounce around. If you have that much stuff, step up to a larger day hiking pack.

• Day Hiking Pack

  
    A day hiking pack has shoulder straps but no waist belt. It is intended to carry lighter loads on the shoulders for which you do not need the waist support. There is no sharp line between hiking day packs and back packs - starting with tiny packs, you can find larger and larger and larger packs, some with hydration systems, some with added chest strap, and some with waist strap.
  A day pack is only carried on the shoulders, but since its larger, that's probably the only way you would want to carry it. Your day pack should be big enough to hold all the gear you need, but not much bigger - or you will be tempted to fill it up, meaning more weight and strain on you.

• Back Pack

  
    For day hikes, you really shouldn't need a hiking back pack unless you are geared up for cold weather, are going a long distance, or are carrying gear for others. If you are training for an extended trek, then using your backpack whenever you can is a good idea, too.
  Hiking back packs are made for heavy loads so they have complex systems of strapping, padding, and support to make the load as comfortable on your body as possible. Taking the time to adjust your back pack occasionally during a hike will keep things balanced and situated. An off-center pack or a strap rubbing or a hard point in your back can make for an unpleasant hike quickly.

Whichever kind of pack you decide to use, make sure you are able to keep the contents safe from rain. A fanny pack should fit under your rain coat and you should have a cover for your hiking day pack or back pack.
Get a pack based on its features and fit, not on fashion. No one really looks cool wearing a pack anyway, so don't worry about it. But, try to get neutral, earthy colors to lessen your visual impact on the environment.