How to reset mountain bike disc brakes - calliper pistons

Disc Brakes on Road Bikes?

Disc brakes on road bikes. I haven't seen a technical innovation that's caused as much controversy since - well, since Shimano invented a little thing called Di2. Sure, there's a lot of hand-wringing about their place in the professional peloton, but in terms of the rest of us riding around, are they worth the extra expense?
As a staff member at one of Sydney's biggest bike shops, I've been building, riding and servicing road bikes with disc brakes on a daily basis for the past two years, and on mountain bikes for a lot longer. I've also talked to many other mechanics who work on them on a daily basis.
Here's a no-nonsense look at the pros and cons of road disc brakes, and whether you need them
on your bike.

They work better than caliper brakes in almost every way
From a functional perspective, the marketing hype is all true. Road discs, when they're properly adjusted, are the mutt's nuts when it comes to every aspect of braking.
It's not just about getting more stopping power under you, however. Discs don't actually give you that much more stopping power than a decent caliper brake. However, the difference is all at the lever. You've got much more control over the amount of braking force you use, and it requires very little power from your fingers to apply that force. Plus, it feels buttery, buttery smooth - no cable friction here - and you get very similar performance whether you're riding in the wet or the dry.

Let me say that again, because it's the most important point: braking in the wet is significantly better.

Sure, you can still skid out or lock up just as easily, and the amount of grip from your tyres is critical, but disc brakes make much more sense in the wet.

Maintenance
Of course, all of the above depends on those brakes being properly adjusted and in flawless working order. The generation of brakes that are specced on 2015 and 2016 model year bikes are practically issue-free.
From a workshop point of view, road hydraulics need very little maintenance, aside from an occasional bleed and pad replacement. There are a couple of quirks.
First, some riders have complained about their pads constantly rubbing on the rotors. Almost down to a man, this is because of the quick release lever not being done up tight enough and not holding the rotor in place securely enough.This will become less of an issue as we see more road bikes equipped with the through-axles rather than quick-release skewers.
To prevent this, you need to do up the quick-release skewers a fair bit tighter than you may be used to. This is all well and good for us mechanics, with our fingers constructed of sprung steel, but this can be challenging for mere mortals. All I can say is, get working on your finger exercises.
Complaint number two is squealing brakes. This is a fact of life with disc brakes, and every mountain biker for the past 20 years has learned to love the siren song of the rotor. The chief culprit for this is dirty and/or contaminated pads. The only way to prevent this is to clean your brakes. Get some disc brake cleaner, get a clean rag - and I mean clean, not covered in chain lube or yesterday's lunch - and wipe over your rotors when you get home from a ride, especially if it's a wet one. You will save a lot of money on pads in the long run.
Here are some more useful maintenance tips for road discs.

Racing wheels
Here's the elephant in the room. So, discs might be getting trialed by eight professional teams this year, but unless you're slipping the commissaire fifty bucks every time you race, you cannot, should not and will not be allowed to race on a disc-equipped road bike for at least another 15 months.
So, if you enjoy lining up at the local crit or road race on a Sunday morning, you'd better resign yourself to the fact you won't be doing it on your shiny new road disc bike. Either that, or take up cyclo-cross.

Three riders from Pro Continental outfit Team Roompot are trialling disc brakes at the Eneco Tour, but this sight will be a long way away at your local crit (Team Roompot/Twitter)In addition, a disc-equipped road bike may not be the choice for you if you prefer to have a set of wheels for every occasion. Not every frame will be compatible with every manufacturer's wheelset, especially as hub, axle and mounting standards settle down. If you do want to run multiple wheels, be prepared to take the time to do the research on compatibility (and be braced for some pain), or hold off a few more years until the technology has bedded down.

Yes or no?
From a functionality and maintenance point of view, disc brakes are a huge leap forward from the caliper brakes we're used to on road bikes. Seriously, the difference when riding is like the difference between alloy and carbon frames, or between mechanical and electronic gear shifting. It's hard to go back to calipers once you've got used to the control that discs give you, especially in wet conditions.
However, it depends on you and the kind of riding you do as to whether you should rush out and buy one today. If you're looking for a bike for the morning bunchie, to ride in gran fondos and to commute on, you absolutely should consider it as an option. However, if you're a weight-weenie racer or like to keep your options open on wheel choice, then perhaps hold off for a couple more years.

When the brake pads are replaced or if accidentally the brake lever is pressed without a rotor or spacer between the pads, you will have to reset the brake calliper pistons. Basically resetting your b - See more at: http://blog.rahoxbrakes.com/2014/10/how-to-reset-mountain-bike-disc-brakes.html#sthash.SeQ3oy2M.dpuf

When the brake pads are replaced or if accidentally the brake lever is pressed without a rotor or spacer between the pads, you will have to reset the brake calliper pistons. Basically resetting your b - See more at: http://blog.rahoxbrakes.com/2014/10/how-to-reset-mountain-bike-disc-brakes.html#sthash.SeQ3oy2M.dpuf

How to reset mountain bike disc brakes - calliper pistons

When the brake pads are replaced or if accidentally the brake lever is pressed without a rotor or spacer between the pads, you will have to reset the brake calliper pistons. Basically resetting your brake pistons is just only pushing your calliper pistons back to their original position. It is an easy task, and will ease the new brake pads installation.

Shimano M615 brake calliper with fully retracted pads as it comes from the factory

1. If you are going to change or upgrade your mountain bike brake pads the easiest way to reset your pistons is without removing the worn brake pads. Remove the wheel and just put a large flat blade screwdriver between the pads and twist pushing the pads apart until the calliper pistons are retracted to its original position. You will get enough room to clear the new brake pads and the brake rotor.
   
   

   

   Push the pads apart until they are fully retracted to the original position

   
   If you want to use this method but you don’t need replacing the brake pads and want to avoid scratching your current brake pads, you can use any other softer tool (tire lever for example), or just wrap the screwdriver blade in electrical tape and follow the same twisting procedure. If the brake pistons don’t move back enough to clear the brake rotor, or there are very hard to retract is often because there is too much brake fluid in the system causing the lock. In this case you will have to remove any excess brake fluid from the system, unscrewing a bit the top bleeder at the master cylinder or removing the fluid reservoir top cap. Always try first with the top bleeder or reservoir top cap to avoid air entering the system. Catch the excess brake fluid with some paper towel and be careful and cover your brake pads to avoid brake fluid splash ruining them. Tighten the bleeder or reinstall the reservoir top cap and you are done.


2.  If you have removed the brake pads, you can retract the calliper pistons with a tire brake lever or similar “soft” tool to avoid scratching the surface of your calliper pistons. Press both pistons until they are fully retracted into the calliper body.
   
   
3. Now install the new pads, the wheel and “set” the brake pistons to the correct position by pressing the brake lever hard 2-3 times. After this setting you should have full power, but if you have removed some fluid from the brake system and feel your brake spongy, you should bleed your brake system following the Service Instructions of your brake system manufacturer. Search the links below for detailed information from the main mountain bike brake manufacturers.

- See more at: http://blog.rahoxbrakes.com/2014/10/how-to-reset-mountain-bike-disc-brakes.html#sthash.0z8JKrGB.dpuf

Join a Group Ride
 
My introduction to riding with a group came one summer evening when I timidly decided to join a well-known ride in my area. As much as I enjoyed my solo adventures, I wanted to start connecting with other cyclists. The entire day I worried about it. Was I fast enough? Were there some secret rules I didn’t know? Was my bike good enough? Did I have the right gear?
I worried I would be secretly judged, or dropped, or worse. In some ways, it felt like the first day at a new school. I almost backed out at the 11^th hour, but I made myself go through with it, and in retrospect I’m glad I did. When I showed up, there were guys with much more expensive bikes, flashier kits, and legs that looked like they could dish out some serious hurt. But of course, it wasn’t as bad as I thought. Everyone was pretty nice and I didn’t get dropped; nobody bike or my kit or my helmet.
said anything about my
I showed up again the next week, and the week after, and had soon become a regular at the ride. And a funny thing happened. I began to develop more as a cyclist. Not only did I get faster, and develop more endurance, but I learned more about cycling. And, most importantly, I made some good friends that I started riding with outside of our group.

It’s not to say I don’t still love riding alone. I do. In fact, I eagerly wake up early on Sunday mornings for my long, solo ride into the country. But I still regularly show up to group rides to make some friends, push myself, and test my mettle.

As a cyclist, whether recreational or competitive, riding with a group has a lot of benefits.

1.    You’ll Get Stronger: It’s almost a guarantee that many, if not most, of the riders in the group will be stronger, and you’ll have to push yourself out of your comfort zone. This leads to big improvements in your fitness.
2.    You’ll Learn More: Are you pushing too big of a gear? Not shifting in the right spots? Every group ride is full of riders who are eager to share what they know. Just try not to take offense, they’re just trying to help.
3.    You’ll Feel More Confident: You never know what you’re capable of until you try. Riding with a group will help you quickly master many of the complexities of cycling and be a stronger, more confident rider over all.
4.    You’ll Make Friends: Unless you’re that guy (and you don’t want to be that guy) that attacks when someone flats, you’ll probably make some pretty good friends on your group ride.
5.    It’s Fun: Sometimes riding can become a chore, especially if you always ride alone. Instead of always doing the same routes and struggling in the same spots, riding with a group can help spice up your riding life and give some variety to your cycling.

An Easy Mountain Bike Ride in Breckenridge

If you’re anything like me this isn’t your first time on a bike but you’re also not totally ready to trust a thin piece of aluminum on two wheels to take you down a black diamond level bike trail quite yet. With this in mind I recommend the Sally Barber Mine Trail for an easy mountain bike ride in Breckenridge.
Depending on how long you want your ride to last there are two great starting points for this easy mountain bike ride in Breckenridge. The first of which is the longer of the two, park your car at the B&B Trailhead, just past the Country Boy Mine on Wellington. Wellington will have turned into a dirt road by this point and parking will be on your right hand side.

From here, unload your bike and head back out to the dirt road and turn left. This Elevation Ski and Bike this is a great time to play with your gears and get the feel of your new bike.
is where your climb will begin. If you are renting a bike from
Continue straight on the dirt road. The climb will slowly take you up the hill, where you will pass some beautiful homes in addition to a few other bike trails. The road will start to level out and there will be a large turnout on your right hand side, this is the second spot to start your easy mountain bike ride in Breckenridge.

From here your easy mountain bike ride truly begins. Approximately thirty yards up from the parking area there will be a fork in the road. Take a right and drop down slightly and ride through the opening in the gate. The gate is wide enough for your handle bars to easily fit through, just make sure you are looking where you want to go and not at the gate!

Once through the gate settle in and enjoy the scenery. You are now on a rocky old 4WD road. This is where your climb starts. The incline is subtle but you’ll eventually feel it on your legs. There will be a small stream on your left hand side and the surrounding trees provide some shade most of the way up.
This easy mountain bike ride in Breckenridge is just over a mile each way from the gate. At the top get off your bike and enjoy the beautiful views of town and read about Sally Barber Mine. You can catch your breath while you brush up on Breckenridge’s mining history.

The ride down is your reward! This easy mountain bike ride in Breckenridge is a great way to get comfortable with some speed as there is plenty of space allowing for some forgiveness. Be sure to keep an eye out for bikers and hikers on their way up though as Sally Barber Mine is quite a popular trail.

Remember to pack extra water and some snacks and enjoy your easy mountain bike ride in Breckenridge!

Riding Gravel

1. Tires/Rims

What To Do: Run the widest tires your bike will fit—for most road bikes this will be 25-28mm tires. The bigger tires will provide a larger contact patch, which will help improve traction on loose gravel and dirt. The larger air volume will also let you run lower air pressures to improve comfort without risking a pinch flat. Look for a tire that features a puncture-resistant belt and a moderate file-type or Roubaix tread.

 Hacks: Even if your bike’s clearance is limited to a 25mm tire, you can get more air volume by using a wheel with a wider rim. The wider rim gives the tire a wider stance, allowing the tube to inflate more fully. Examples would be HED Ardennes, Mavic’s new Ksyrium 4D, or Zipp Firecrest. If you bought a new Fuji or Diamondback road bike in the last two years, you’re in luck. The Oval 500- and 700-series wheels spec’d on most 2014 and later Fuji’s already feature a new wider rim profile, while most 2014 and later Diamondback’s come with nice and wide HED Tomcat or HED Ardennes rims.

Be Careful Of: While wider tires do have lower rolling resistance, that’s only true to a point. When I first got the Fenix SL and was playing around with tires and rims, I was delighted/astounded to realize it would clear a ~33mm tire. With rim brakes. The balloon tires handled great on the gravel, but out on the road they felt sluggish and slow. Realizing that Alpine Loop had only ~15 miles of gravel, with 90-something miles of road, I opted to go for a slightly smaller tire.

2. Tire Pressure

What To Do: For the Northern Classics like Paris-Roubaix and Ronde van Vlaanderen, the pro team mechanics consider tire pressure to be their most closely guarded secret. Finding the right tire pressure for gravel riding is about finding that happy medium between a low enough pressure that the bike feels comfortable over the jarring surface, but high enough to avoid pinch flats or rim damage. Finding the right pressure will depend on your body weight, tire width, and rim width. There are no ready-made solutions, so you’ll have to experiment to find what works right for you. Generally, the best bet is to start at 20 PSI under the tire or rim manufacturer’s recommended max (whichever is lower) and then go down from there.

Hacks: Run your front and rear tires at slightly different pressures. Run the rear wheel 5-10 PSI higher than your front, since it’s bearing all of your weight and will be taking far more punishment. The front tire can handle lower pressure, which will help reduce the amount of vibration and jarring hits going into your arms.

Be Careful Of: Going too low. Too low of a pressure will allow the tire to compress all the way to the rim if you hit something hard enough and fast enough. This can both cause a pinch flat (“snake bite puncture”) if you run clinchers, and possibly lead to damage to your rim whether you run tubeless or clinchers.

3. Bar Tape

What To Do: Even with big tires, wide rims, and the right tire pressure, gravel can still deliver a pretty rough ride. If you’ll be doing a lot of gravel riding, or are looking at setting up a dedicated bike, you may want to opt for some thicker tape (in the 3mm thick range), adding some gel inserts under the tape, or even double wrapping.  This will provide more cushion to improve comfort and relieve pressure on the ulnar nerves.

Hacks: Next time you wrap your bars, you can get a little more padding by utilizing the extra tape. Most rolls of handlebar tape will have more than you need, requiring you to cut off the extra. Once you’re done wrapping and have cut off the excess, unwrap the bars back to the lever, and place the extra tape on the bars where you feel you need some extra padding, then wrap back over it.

3mm thick bar tape helped take the sting out of the gravel. Also note the climb cue sheet taped to the stem to help anticipate efforts and plan when to fuel.

4. Torque Is Your Friend

What To Do: Most riders will need to significantly gear down to ride gravel. A high cadence with lots of torque is your best friend in situations where the gravel or dirt gets loose and sloppy. The higher cadence will allow you to power through situations where you lose traction, and allow you to stay on top of the gear without having to resort to standing up—which is a no-no on gravel. Depending on the gearing you already run on your bike, you may need a bigger cassette, smaller chainrings, or both.

Hacks: Consider upgrading your rear derailleur to a medium/long cage model (Shimano GS or SRAM WiFli). It will still work perfectly with your normal cassette for every day riding, but will also give you the option of running a huge 11-32t cassette when the time comes.

Be Careful Of: Overestimating yourself. There is no such thing as too low of a gear on a long ride with lots of gravel, especially if it’s hilly. I seriously considered using a 52/36 on this ride, and only reconsidered at the last minute after consulting with some friends. That would have been a disaster, and I’m glad I listened to them. Too high of a gear will force you to have to stand on a hill, which will unweight your rear wheel and break traction. The wheel will spin out from underneath you, and most likely you will crash.

Trekking Poles - How to use them

Trekking poles sure do come in handy for balancing a heavy pack or taking a load off your knees — but they really shine when it comes to navigating on all sorts of challenging terrain. Here’s how to tweak those poles to make sure you’re getting the most possible support out of them in every condition and type of terrain.

Deep Snow

Stop! Don’t take your trekking poles into deep snow unless they have snow baskets on them — a big discs that sits just above the tip of each pole, keeping it
from sinking too far into the snow. On most trekking poles, you can just unscrew the old baskets or snap them out (if they’re there in the first place), then screw or snap the new baskets in.
Poles come in especially handy if you fall while snowshoeing in deep snow. If the snow’s too deep for you to poke a pole down against the ground and lever yourself back up, place both poles flat on the snow, upslope from you and crossed in the middle so they make a big “X.” Place one hand where the poles cross, and use that support to get your feet back underneath you.

Dirt and Gravel

No baskets needed here! In fact you’ll do better without them. If you’re really depending on the poles for balance or support, place them firmly with each step and pay attention to how they feel in your hand. It’s that feel — and sometimes the sound of the pole hitting the ground, too — that will tell you if the pole is planted solidly enough for you to trust it with your weight.

On Rocky Surfaces

The metal tips on your trekking poles will slip and slide on rocky surfaces, and can leave ugly scratches on the rocks. Pop some rubber tip protectors on your poles, and problem solved — they’ll grip solidly on dry rock, with nary a scratch (or dulled pole tip) to be seen. But be careful: Just like your feet, those rubber pole tips can still slip when the rock is wet.

Uphill/Downhill

Here’s where adjustable trekking poles really shine: Shorten them for uphill slopes, and lengthen them for downhill slopes. That way you still have full support from the poles, without having to stoop forward or lean back to use them for leverage.
If you don’t have adjustable poles, you can cheat it by gripping the poles lower down when you go uphill, and holding onto the very top of the handles when you go downhill.

Sidehilling

Walking sideways across a slope? No problem — just shorten the uphill pole (or grip it lower down) and lengthen the downhill pole (or grip it at the tippy-top of the handle). That gives you equal balance and support on both sides.

Mud and Slush

Mud and slush work out pretty much the same: Goopy and slippery. Use snow baskets on your poles or, better yet, mud baskets (completely round discs). Either type will keep your poles from sinking into the mud as deeply, and create a little extra stability for you.

Winter Hiking

Visiting the great outdoors and seeking out of the way locations that allow you to experience the backcountry in the best way possible is a popular activity among novice and seasoned hikers alike. Hiking in regions with colder climates, planning a trip during winter weather and dealing with safety concerns that may not be an issue during warmer seasonal conditions can present many unique challenges. A few basic safety tips can ensure that your next winter hike is able to be as safe and enjoyable as possible.

1: Hiking with a Partner and Alerting Others to Your Plans

Being unable to contact help can turn even a minor problem or issue into a potentially life-threatening crisis. Hiking with a partner, especially a more experienced one, offers greater safety and the means to more easily address any problems that may be encountered on the trail. Ensuring that others know of your plans and timetables is another safety measure that should not be taken lightly as hikers who have encountered a problem in the wilderness may be unable to call for assistance on their own.

2: Plan Shorter Hikes and Get an Early Start

Winter weather means less daylight and more abrupt darkness after sunset, a concern that novice hikers may easily overlook. Planning a lengthy hike that may be undertaken with ease during warmer months may find you still on the trail when darkness and temperatures begin to fall. Starting as early as possible, and planning hikes that are more modest in scope could make a big difference in ensuring your winter outing can be as safe and enjoyable as possible.

3: Selecting Proper Clothing and Gear

Choosing the right clothing is of paramount importance when it comes to hiking in cold temperatures. Dressing in layers, selecting outer garments that can better resist moisture and donning undergarments that will retain the most heat are all essential for staying warm and dry. While snowshoes and crampons may be required for more extreme environments, trekking poles can offer the added stability needed to avoid slips and falls that are common even over level terrain and make a valuable addition to any gear selection.

4: Emergency Supplies

Proper preparation always pays off especially, in crisis situations and circumstances that may be potentially dangerous. Stocking up on emergency supplies can make a life-saving difference in the event that you encounter a problem in a location where help may be hours or even days away. When hiking in winter conditions, packing more than one compass, multi-tool or other basic survival item is often a prudent move. The old adage of “two is one, one is none” is important to remember as overlooking the importance of redundancy can turn out to be nothing short of a disaster.

5: Check the Weather and Be Prepared

Severe storms, frontal systems and other weather changes can often develop very quickly, leaving those who are out on the trail unable to properly prepare themselves. Checking the weather, early and often, is a wise idea during any season but should be of paramount concern during the cooler months of winter. With proper planning and preparation, weathering a snowstorm or blizzard can be done more safely and comfortable. Hikers who fail to keep track of weather predictions and information could be placing themselves at much greater risk than they might imagine.

6: Eat and Drink Frequently

Dehydration can speed the process of hypothermia, a potentially life-threatening condition that may be very hard to address when alone in the wilderness. The amount of calories burned on a winter hike may come as a surprise, meaning hikers would do well to take food and snacks that are high in protein, fats and complex carbohydrates. Eating and drinking frequently will ensure that your body is able to function more efficiently, allowing you to make the most out of your winter hikes and outdoor experiences.

Hiking Breck

Summer means hiking in Breckenridge, and this mountain community is fortunate to have renowned trails nearby; however, travelers don’t need to commit to full-day, lung-busting, quad-wrecking hikes to get a scenic trail walking fix.

Check out these three short hikes to experience backcountry peace without a ton of time (and without a car to get to the trailhead – these hikes are accessible from downtown Breckenridge).

Carter Park: This short-and-sweet hike follows stone steps uphill from Carter Park, which is home to a dog park, pavilion, tennis courts and more. Panoramic views of the Tenmile Range and Breckenridge Ski Resort await at the top of the steps; the distance to the top is easier measured in yards rather than miles. Carter Park is one of several popular town trailheads that provide access to a vast network of town and county trails. If this short hike just isn’t enough, continue south on the Hermit Placer Trail and loop back via Jack’s Cruel Joke (careful, it’s steep!) and Sunbeam.
Getting there: Carter Park is located at 300 S. High St. Walk or bike from downtown; the park is also accessible by the Breckenridge Free Ride’s purple route, and parking is available on site.

Sawmill Trail: This roughly 1.5-mile hike begins at the bottom of the Snowflake Lift and follows a
stream to a reservoir. Abundant shade and little elevation gain make this a good option for families. The location puts this hike within easy walking distance of many surrounding lodging properties.
Getting there: The Sawmill Trail is located at the Snowflake Lift, near the intersection of Four O’Clock Road and Kings Crown Road. Walk or bike from downtown; the lift is also accessible via the Breckenridge Free Ride’s yellow route.

Burro Trail: Hike the Burro Trail as an out-and-back route for as long (or as short) as desired – just five or 10 minutes out can make you feel like you’re miles away. Like the Carter Park trailhead, the Burro trail provides access to a vast network of backcountry hiking options. It’s a great option for those staying at the many properties along Village Road.

Getting there: The Burro trail can be accessed from the bottom of the Lehman ski trail, located at the base of Peak 9 off Village Road in Breckenridge. Walk or bike from downtown; the trail is also accessible via the Breckenridge Free Ride’s yellow route.
These three easy hikes accessible from downtown Breckenridge are just a sample of the many trail options available in and around town. Visit the Breckenridge Welcome Center at 203 S. Main St. for information, directions and detailed maps that include these and other hiking routes. BreckenridgeTrails.org is a fabulous resource for in-town trails – the site includes trail conditions/closures, volunteer days and more.