Best Commuter Bike, a Cyclocross?

Can a cyclocross bike become the best commuter bike for your daily bike route? If you’ve ever caught a glimpse of cyclists pedalling through mud and quickly mounting and dismounting their bikes to hop obstacles, then you’ve witnessed a cyclocross race. The fall and early winter sport is quickly gaining in popularity, as are the cyclocross-specific bikes used by racers. A bike that rips through and sheds mud, gains speed from skinny tires and can handle whatever Mother Nature throws its way? Sounds like the best commuter bike.

The quick and dirty

At first glance, a cyclocross (or cross bike) closely resembles its cousin, the road bike. But there are some major differences. The frame has a higher bottom bracket than a road bike, perfect for navigating obstacles and has a slightly different geometry, as it’s made to be ridden in a more uptight position. Another major difference is the brakes. While road bikes rely on calipers, cross bikes have cantilever or disc brakes, which offer more stopping power in the elements. Cyclocross bikes also tend to use slightly wider, knobby tires to provide traction through mud, sand, water and snow.

Convert it into the best commuter bike

 It doesn’t take much to transform a cross bike into the best commuter bike. Look for a bike frame that’s aluminum or steel. Cross bike frames are strong and durable, yet lighter than most touring bike frames. Find a bike frame that comes with plenty of braze-ons and be sure to add fenders to help keep your bike commute dry. Install racks or panniers for hauling extra gear. Most cross bikes should have space for these add-ons. Since you’re not racing the bike, weight is not a major concern and you should also find a saddle that’s comfortable for longer rides. Lastly, unless you’re planning to ride gravel bike paths or rough dirt roads, consider swapping out the knobby tires in favor of slicks. These bike tires will increase your cruising speed and ensure a smoother ride. Find a bike tire that’s durable and fairly flat resistant.

Other cross bike considerations

If you’re buying a new bike you may have the option of disc brakes, a fairly new addition to cross bikes. Most cantilever brakes are fine for bike commuters, but if you often commute by bike in wet, slushy weather you may want to consider investing in disc brakes, which offer more reliable and effective stopping power. Before you buy a cross bike also consider if the geometry will be comfortable for you. The more road bike-like position will stretch out your back, shoulders, neck and arms more than a touring bike, commuter bike or mountain bike, which put riders in a more upright position. If you have any neck, back or shoulder problems you may want a bike that’s less aggressive. To learn more about Cyclocross, check out Cyclocross Magazine.

Mountain Hiking

What is High Altitude?

• High Altitude is from 8,000 to 13,000 feet. This is common hiking elevation in western U.S.
• Very High Altitude is 13,000 to 18,000 feet. Some hiking, mostly in high Rocky Mountains.
• Extremely High Altitude is over 18,000 feet. Special breathing gear required.

Air is made up of nitrogen, oxygen, and argon with traces of other stuff in it. Nitrogen is about 78%, oxygen is 21%, and argon is 1% - those percentages stay constant no matter what the elevation.
Air pressure becomes less as you climb up a mountain, and less air pressure
means less oxygen to breath. High altitude hiking is when you trek at an elevation that may affect your body. Some people are affected as low as 7000 feet. Let's take a minute to explain a bit about air pressure and available oxygen.
If you put your arms out and turn around, you've made a circle that is about 5 feet wide. Imagine that circle being a column of air going from the ground up, up, up to the edge of the atmosphere. From where you're standing, there are thousands and thousands of feet of air above you in your column. All the nitrogen, oxygen, and argon above you is pushing down on the air around you. The height of that column of air determines the air pressure where you are and that air pressure determines how densely the gas particles are packed together.
    The higher you climb, the less air there is above you in the column, so the lower the air pressure and the less dense the gas. Every 1000 feet you climb, you lose about 3% of the available oxygen because there is less gas packed into your column of air. At 12,000 feet, every breath you take brings in only 2/3 the amount of oxygen that you would suck in at sea level.
Another important thing to keep in mind is that air temperature drops about 3.5 degrees for every 1000 feet of elevation gain. A nice 75 degree day at 5,000 feet will be more like 60 degrees at 10,000 feet.

Hiking at High Altitudes

As you expand your hiking adventures, you'll probably be driven to hike up higher and higher mountains. At some point, it becomes mountaineering, but there are many peaks over 14,000 feet that have trails all the way to the top. Colorado has many 14,000+ peaks that people make a goal of summiting. As you climb ever higher, you need to understand the added risks and problems with higher altitudes. You will find yourself needing to breathe deeper and more often to keep enough oxygen circulating to your muscles. Every breath has less oxygen, so you need more breaths. There are more special preparations for higher altitude hiking:

• Slower Pace - If you are not expecting the lack of oxygen, you will find yourself needing frequent rest stops to recover. But, by slowing your pace as you gain elevation, you will keep your body working without overexerting.
• Even Rhythm - Maintaining a breathing/stepping rhythm is even more important at higher elevations than lower down. It will help keep you from overexerting yourself.
• Deep Breathing - when you first notice any breathlessness, start thinking about your breathing. Take deeper breaths and smaller steps until you have a sustainable pace again. On steeper sections, deliberately placing each foot and taking a breath may be the way to go.
• Sunscreen is critical because the sun is more powerful higher up. Snow, light-colored rocks, cool temperature, and no shade above treeline also contribute to easy sun burns.
• Sunglasses will help prevent squinting and headaches. Snowblindness and sunburned eyelids are real problems. Use side guards on your glasses for more protection.
• Extra Clothes - long sleeves, long pants, hats, and gloves to protect from the sun, wind, and cold. Weather can change in a heartbeat, easily dropping more than 30 degrees in 1/2 hour or less.

Ignoring the risks of hiking at higher elevations will ruin your day. If you're lucky, you'll just be wiped out, but there's a good chance you can get yourself in deep trouble.

Altitude Sickness

 Everyone needs to breathe more when they are at altitude. But, some people become sick when they hike too high. It just happens.
The biggest problem with hikers is that they want to reach their goal and may not accept that they need to stop when problems occur. Being honest enough to stop and possibly turn back can be a very difficult step to take.
There are many factors that come into play when altitude sickness hits, but taking some steps will help minimize your risk:

• Acclimatize - The biggest contributor to altitude sickness is climbing too fast. That means the person in good shape has a good chance of getting sick since he tends to push harder and hike faster. People that reside at lower elevations will experience a greater change at lower heights. To acclimatize:
  • Rest and relax for 2 hours for every 1000 feet the trailhead is above your normal elevation. For example, if you live in Iowa at 1,000 feet and plan to hike in Wyoming at 9,000 feet, you should arrive in the afternoon and start your hike in the morning after sleeping a night to acclimatize.
  • Climb slowly and steadily.
  • Check how you are feeling every hour. Nausea, lack of hunger or thirst, headache, dizziness, difficult breathing, lack of coordination are all warning signs.
  • On multi-day hikes, sleep no more than 1500 feet higher than the previous night. You can climb higher during the day, but come down to sleep.
• Expect It - just because you went to 14,000 feet last summer does not mean your hike to 12,000 feet will not affect you next weekend. Any height over 8,000 feet should make you be on the alert. Every hike is a new experience and by being on the lookout for symptoms, you will catch problems early on.
• Hydrate - drinking more water helps reduce the symptoms. Drink even if you do not feel thirsty.
• Reduce Exertion - the harder you push your body, the greater your risk of getting symptoms.
• Eat Well - eat a high carbohydrate menu, and don't forget to drink water.

AMS - Acute Mountain Sickness

About 75% of people that hike over 10,000 feet will experience some mild AMS symptoms. Hikers can continue on with mild symptoms, but if they do not subside or they get worse, then corrective action is required. The problem with AMS is that its symptoms are similar to other common hiking problems such as dehydration, fatigue, and eating bad food.
Ignoring these symptoms can result in extreme situations, possibly death. Ordered from most severe to least:

• Disorientation - confusion, hallucinations, irrational behavior can all be caused by edema, which is swelling of tissue and can be caused by higher elevation.
• Loss of Coordination - someone stumbling or dropping their water bottle should be signals. If you suspect someone may be experiencing this, test them:
  • Have him walk heel-to-toe in a straight line.
  • Have him stand straight with feet together and arms at sides and then close his eyes. He should be able to balance for at least 15 seconds.
• Lassitude - similar to exhaustion, just being tired out. After eating and drinking water and resting, exhaustion should go away. If it does not get better, do not go on and keep resting. There will be no energy to eat, talk, or do anything as the situation worsens.
• Headache - there are many causes for a headache, from bright sun to altitude sickness. If a headache does not go away after food, water, and rest, then suspect altitude sickness.
• Nausea - upset stomach and loss of appetite.

HAPE - High Altitude Pulmonary Edema

  High Altitude Pulmonary Edema is excess fluid in the lungs which further reduces oxygen exchange from air to your body. The level of oxygen diminishes which can lead to impaired thinking and ultimately death. HAPE symptoms include shortness of breath while at rest, feeling of tightness in the chest, weakness, feeling of suffocating, persistent cough, and fatigue. The person may also cough up watery fluid.

HACE - High Altitude Cerebral Edema

High Altitude Cerebral Edema is excess fluid in the brain which puts pressure on the brain. This usually develops over a few days but is a life-threatening situation. Disorientation and weird behavior will lead to unconsciousness most likely followed by death if nothing is done.

Treating Altitude Sickness

The important thing to do is stay alert and catch early symptoms fast. The longer symptoms develop, the more drastic the response will need to be. Assuming you catch the symptoms early, follow these steps - but if the symptoms are advanced, decide between the last couple steps:

• Rest - take a break and take in some fluids and food. Take aspirin for headache. Do not be in a hurry and plan to break for an hour to give the symptoms a chance to recede.
• Medicate - Diamox is an altitude medication that may help.
• Descend - Drop at least 1,500 feet down the mountain and rest.
• Halt - Stop the hike and descend completely off the mountain.
• 9-1-1 - Call for medical services. If the victim can hike, start descending immediately, not in the morning or after supper, now! Otherwise, wait for evacuation.

How to Choose Trekking Poles

Stay Stable on Rough Terrain!

Why Use Trekking Poles?:

Anyone who has tried using a pair of trekking poles during a hike knows that they make travelling over rough or variable terrain easier and more efficient. Trekking poles provide additional stability, which relieves some of the force and strain on the ankles and knees. On wet, icy or muddy ground, trekking poles provide a sense of security that allows you to travel faster and more efficiently. On the descent, usually the portion of a hike with the most substantial impact on the knees and ankles, trekking poles provide relief while preventing soreness and fatigue.
Trekking poles are a relatively simple piece of gear, but there are variations in construction, sizing and features that impact weight, comfort and packability. The following guide will help you understand the characteristics of and differences between various styles of trekking poles so that you can find the right pair for your needs and start hiking better!

Pole Adjustment:

Most trekking poles feature some form of length adjustment, which allows you to shorten the pole while travelling uphill and lengthen the pole while descending. The more points adjustment a pole has, the easier it is to compress it completely for lashing to the outside of a pack. Additionally, adjustable trekking poles feature multiple shaft segments that can be replaced independently if the pole is bent, cracked or broken.

Single adjustment poles-

Single adjustment poles have one, simple point of adjustment. This style of trekking pole is easy to shorten or lengthen on varied terrain, yet doesn’t compress well since it only has two parts. This style of pole is perfect for shorter day hikes or backyard snowshoe trips

Double adjustment poles-

Trekking poles with dual adjustment points are the most versatile style available. the two adjustment points allow you to choose the proper length for the terrain, while the three separate shaft sections collapse into themselves for easy storage. This is a great style of trekking pole for rugged terrain on overnights, backcountry skiing, or extended trekking.

Folding poles-

One of the lightest weight options is a folding pole. Folding poles feature multiple sections that come apart and fold together into a very compact, packable form. The most minimalist folding poles are a fixed length for simplicity and weight reduction. However, many folding poles feature one point of adjustment near the grip to provide a range of adjustment for travelling on an incline. Folding poles are great for ultralight hikers, trail runners or minimalist ski touring.

Locking Mechanisms:

Twist lock-

The most basic locking mechanism for trekking poles is a twist lock. As the name suggests, a twist lock system tightens when the two sections the shaft are twisted in opposite directions, thereby locking the trekking pole in place. The pole can be loosened by twisting the sections in the opposite direction. Twist lock systems are rudimentary and therefore cheaper, yet they are also prone to sliding or freezing up in cold weather.

Clasp lock-

The most secure and adjustable locking mechanism us a clasp lock. A clasp lock features a plastic or metal jacket at the junction between two sections of a trekking pole, which features a clasp to tighten and lock the system in place. Clasp locks are secure and tight, while remaining easy to operate in any weather.

Grip Style:

Cork-

The most comfortable grip style features cork construction. Cork molds to your hands over time and naturally dampens vibration while hiking. Cork will give you a better grip when your hands sweat and is the lightest option available. Cork is also an eco-friendly choice, since cork is harvested responsibly and is a sustainable material. The downside to cork is a comparative lack of durability, yet with proper care a cork grip is the best option for performance.

Rubber-

Rubber is inferior to cork in most way except cold weather hiking, mountaineering or backcountry skiing. Rubber is insulating and has vibration dampening properties. In cold weather, rubber can’t be beat, but it can cause chafing and can become slippery during warmer weather activities.

Foam-

Want a good warm-weather grip, but don’t want to spend the money on a trekking pole with a cork grip? Opt for a foam grip. Foam absorbs sweat and is soft and comfortable on long trips. However, on the hottest days, foam’s sweat absorbing qualities can make your grips slippery.

Shock absorbing poles:

On long hikes on variable terrain, trekking pole featuring shock absorbing construction further reduces the impact of hiking on your joints. A spring loaded shock absorber in the shaft of some trekking poles provides excellent dampening properties during a hike, while rebounding smoothly for a comfortable ride. If you have particularly troublesome issues with your joints, knees and ankles, shock absorbing poles will have a significant effect on your comfort when hiking.

Sizing:

Unlike ski poles which have a fixed length and must be selected based on your height, modern adjustable trekking poles will fit nearly anyone.
Folding trekking poles, like Black Diamond’s Z-pole series, still require proper sizing to achieve a proper fit. Ideally, your arm will make a 90 degree bend when you hold your trekking pole. If you are between sizes, size up for general use such as hiking, trekking, backpacking and walking, or size down for high speed ascents and trail running. The attached chart shows Black Diamond’s recommended pole lengths based on your height:


Materials:

Carbon-

Carbon trekking poles are the most expensive, highest performance and lightest option available. Carbon fiber shaft construction dampens vibration and reduces the weight of your trekking poles so that you will barely notice you are carrying them. While carbon fiber trekking poles perform well, they can splinter and crack in extreme conditions. Carbon trekking poles are necessary for ultralight hikers and backpackers, or anyone who wants the lightest gear possible.

Aluminum-

Aluminum trekking poles feature maximum durability, while remaining fairly light weight. Aluminum does not dampen vibration as well as carbon and is heavier, but the price and durability of aluminum poles is superior. Aluminum poles will bend when put under stress, but do not break as easily and can potentially be carefully bent back into place on the trail. If you beat on your gear or want to save money, trekking poles with aluminum shafts are a great option.

Hydration and Cycling | How and When

Whether you’re sweating through your morning cycling commute or tackling the searing tarmac on a bike touring trip, it’s important to keep one thing in mind: hydration. Pounding fluids and sports drinks isn’t just for pro athletes. Consuming enough fluids and electrolytes will help improve blood flow to muscles and skin, support muscle contraction, regulate body temperature and heart rate and prevent hyponatremia, which results from low sodium levels in the blood. A hit of the clear stuff also helps your body recover and improves performance.  Here are some common questions regarding hydration.

How much hydration?

Timing is everything with hydration. The goal is to keep a steady level of fluids and electrolytes in your system for the duration of your cycling trip. If your day looks like a hot one or you know your exertion level will be high, start sipping water as soon as you get out of bed. Aim to consume at least 12 fluid ounces (approx. one water bottle) before the ride begins. Then when you’re on the bike, sip water at regular intervals. For an intense ride, try to finish 16-24 ounces per hour. Everyone’s hydration needs are different, but downing 12-16 ounces an hour in the heat is a good place to start.

When do I need electrolytes?

Electrolytes allow your cells to generate energy, keep your muscles contracting and are responsible for moving fluids through the body. When you exercise in hot weather, you sweat out important electrolytes like sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium. To keep your body in balance, it’s important to replace these minerals. For short or easy bike rides, there’s no need to supplement, just keep sipping water. For rides that are intense, take place on hot days or last more than an hour, consider adding a sports drink (which will also provide carbs for energy and electroytes) or an electrolyte supplement such as Hammer Endurolytes, NUUN, Camelbak Elixir or S-Caps. Plain salt or Morton’s Lite salt also fit the bill. Just be sure to add a source of potassium (banana) if you’re using the plain salt. The goal is to keep your levels in balance, so avoid chugging a drink or chewing an entire salt tablet. Drink on a schedule, not by thirst. When you feel thirsty, you’re already dehydrated.


How can I keep this simple?

• Are there salt stains on your clothes and helmet straps? This likely means you’re a salty sweater and should focus on finding a drink with more sodium (each varies).
• Want to estimate fluid loss? Weigh yourself right before and after you ride your bike.
• Hate drinking water or hate warm water? Try adding a squeeze of lemon to the bottle or nosh on juicy fruits like kiwis, watermelon and grapefruit. For long rides, add water to a third of your bottle the night before and stick it in the freezer. The next morning, top off the bottle and enjoy chilled refreshment all the way to the office. You can also keep things cool with insulated water bottles, available from companies like Polar and Camelbak.

Hardtail vs Full Suspension Mountain Bikes

My Perspective

I will be 50 this year, and although I’ve ridden bikes all my life, I’ve been a serious mountain biker since I moved to Colorado in 2004. I started out on a Specialized Rockhopper hardtail which I rode for 4 years. Then I got a Giant Trance full suspension bike and rode it for 3 years. Now I’m riding a hardtail again, but this time on a 29-inch wheels.

What is the difference?
Those of us who have been riding for a while take this for granted, but for those who are new to the sport the differences may be a little hazy. Here’s the quick and dirty info:

A hardtail is a bike with a solid frame and it usually has a suspension fork on the front. Here is a typical hardtail model:


A full suspension (FS) bike has the same fork out front, but it has a frame that consists of two pieces, a front triangle and rear triangle, that are joined by pivots. This allows the two sections of the frame to move independently, and the rate of that movement is controlled by a shock absorber. Here is a typical full suspension model:

Okay, so which is better?
The answer is: it depends. It comes down to personal preference, riding style, average terrain encountered, and other factors. With that being said, however, we’ll go over what each model excels at, as well as some limitations of each. This should help you decide which model better fits your riding style, or perhaps it will convince you to buy one of each! Here goes…

Climbing
Hardtail bikes transfer pedaling power to the rear wheel more efficiently. On non-technical surfaces, this results in better acceleration and makes it easier to sustain higher speeds over a long time. Once the terrain turns technical, rear suspension allows more of the available rear wheel power to actually reach the ground by allowing the wheel to better articulate over obstacles. This helps to maintain traction and mitigates “spinning out.” Also, with FS it is generally easier to stay seated while climbing.

Downhill
On bumpy, technical downhill trails, FS bikes have a clear advantage – but don’t count the hardtail out just yet. I’ve ridden plenty of technical stuff on a hardtail and it handles just fine. The difference is that the “suspension” is your legs. The net result is getting tired faster, but if you’re conditioned to it, it’s not a big deal. In my opinion, technical downhill on a hardtail also makes you choose a better line, and in the long run can make you a better overall rider.

Maintenance
There is no disputing that hardtails require less long term maintenance. All of those pivots and linkages on the FS will need periodic servicing, and the rear shock will need new seals every season or two. Frame articulation causes cables to rub on the frame, and the chain has to work harder to keep up with everything. If you enjoy simplicity and want to keep your maintenance costs low, a hardtail is a good choice. (Or a rigid singlespeed for that matter, but that’s a topic for another post.)

Weight
Advancements in modern frame design are constantly shifting the meaning of “lightweight” in mountain biking. In general a hardtail can be built lighter than the average FS bike, but there are also some seriously lightweight FS bikes now too. Whichever type you’re considering, as long as the weight is reasonable, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. How well it fits and the overall ride quality are more important.

Price
The basic hardtail bike design has existed for over 100 years. FS design is a hotbed of innovation and various patents have been granted, resulting in license agreements between some of the bike manufacturers. Guess who ultimately pays those R&D and licensing costs… you do! The point is that if you are on a strict budget, you can probably get more bike for your buck with a hardtail.

Comfort (These Old Bones)
As I mentioned, I’m almost 40. It didn’t used to bother me to bomb down miles of rough downhill, holding my rear off the saddle all the way. The older I get, the nicer it is to be able to sit down on all but the roughest stuff. I also find that I can go faster over rough stuff with the FS. On the other hand, the hardtail 29er that I’m currently riding has a much smoother ride than my old 26er hardtail. It’s like a magic trick!

The Bottom Line
If you’re just starting out, on a really tight budget, or just enjoy simplicity, you should definitely consider one of the great hardtails on the market today. It can get you out there riding without costing a lot of coin up front and saves on maintenance costs down the line.
If you know you want to huck drops or ride rough, technical trails most of the time or if you’re an older rider and just want a smoother ride, then you’ll likely be happier on a full suspension bike. As I’ve outlined, each type of bike excels in different areas, and it really does come down to your preference and the type of riding you like to do.

So what do you think – hardtail or full-suspension?

Trekking Poles: Pros and Cons

Bending Forward Over Trekking Poles Wastes Energy

I’m a big fan of trekking poles for hiking because they help reduce the strain on my knees when I walk downhill, they improve my balance when I’m hiking over rough ground or crossing streams, and they are useful for establishing a good walking rhythm when synchronized with your arms. But there’s no such thing as a free lunch and before you run out and buy a pair of hiking poles, it’s important to understand the pros and cons of using them and how to use them properly for the greatest benefit.

Pros

• Reduce strain on knees during descents
• Improve balance when walking across rough terrain and stream crossings
• Help establish a walking rhythm
• Multi-purpose item that can be used to pitch ultralight shelters

Cons

• Arm motion increases amount of energy required
• Leaning forward on poles reduces biomechanical efficiency of carrying a backpack
• Improper reliance on straps can lead to injury on falls due to wrist entrapment
• Poles can catch on trees and brush while hiking on narrow trails or bushwhacking
• Steel carbide tips can be potentially damaging to rocks and fragile plants
• Care must be taken when walking across scree fields to prevent poles from snapping

Energy Consumption

First off, trekking poles require more energy to hike with because they involve your upper body muscles (arms and shoulders) as well as your lower body muscles. So, while trekking poles may reduce the level of perceived exertion you experience, you are going to burn more calories if you use them.

Hiking Uphill

There are also times where trekking poles can be more of a hindrance than a help. For example, how many times have you seen someone climbing uphill who is hunched over so that their upper body is nearly parallel with the ground. Invariably, they’re leaning over their hiking poles in an effort to offload their leg muscles while holding up their upper body and backpack with their poles.
Trekking poles provide no benefit in this situation because the weight of their upper body has been transferred away from your legs – which are the biggest and strongest muscles of your body – to the arms which are far weaker and get tired more quickly. It’s even worse if you’re wearing a backpack, because the work of holding it up is done by the arms and not the hip belt which is designed to transfer the load to your legs
When hiking up hills, it’s important to stand straight and keep your torso as errect as possible so that your big leg muscles do all the work. Trekking poles can be used for balance or to help lift your torso up using your arms, but only if they’re help close to your sides, not out front of your body.
Leaning forward actually requires even more energy because the tops of your trekking poles are pushing against you – so that you almost need to vault over them to get past. That’s another reason to keep the poles by your sides. Standing up straight and taking smaller steps is the key to getting up steep hills, not leaning forward on your poles.

Conclusion

Trekking poles can be be very advantageous for hikers, paricularly because they reduce the strain and force of gravity on your lower extremities when hiking downhill. But used incorrectly on uphill climbs, they can result in increased caloric demand and perceived effort. Like any piece of hiking gear, the efficient use of trekking poles requires proper technique and an awareness of the pitfalls of incorrect usage.

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What Do I Choose - Hardtail vs Full Suspension Bike

Introduction

A question that strikes almost every sports buyer is referring to Hardtail and Full Suspension bikes. In the language of "experts", a bike with front and rear suspension is called full-suspension (abbreviated FS) - logically enough - and a bike without the rear and front suspensions has a little more exotic name: hardtail (abbreviated HT). Which one is best for your needs? Let’s weigh the pros and cons.

Introduction
Here at SportsPartner.com, we crafted a comprehensive guide to help you make
the best choice for your needs. We started the big debate. HT vs FS - Which one is better? The major differences between hardtail and full suspension bikes are compared below.
For some people, the answer to this question is very simple, because there are MTB branches where some bicycles are quite „standard”. Thus:

• For Downhill races (DH), people now use only FS bikes. HTs, although used in the past, today are no longer used at all in this sports category;
• For Trial races, people use only HTs with a special form of frame, very low and very specialized models without bike saddle;
• For Dirt Jump, Street races and other sports that include jumps and tricks, people generally use HT bikes with a very well hardened, shorter and a lower position.

The question arises in exchange for those who want a cross-country, simple bike to ride the mountains or the city. In this category, manufacturers’ offer is varied, all models featuring both HT and FS models in different designs and equipment from the cheapest to the top equipment.
Assuming you want a versatile bike, for cross-country cycling and some city rides, how do you make the right choice? Let’s see the perks and flaws of each type of bike.

Benefits of Hardtail bikes

• Are the cheapest solution, the only option under the price of $1000. That does not mean there are no expensive models, those with carbon or titanium frame and top equipment that can easily reach prices of $5000. However, one can find a good HT bike in the $300-$600 range.

• Have a simple construction, without the complicated systems of joints of the FS models, making them more reliable and oferring a cheaper maintenance (practically a HT’s only consumable is the bicycle shifter).                  
  

• Provide greater rigidity in cycling and therefore have a more efficient transmission of pedaling force, although  there are FS models with the possibility of locking the suspension, turning it into a HT. Often, however, a locked suspension of a full suspension bike is not as rigid as an HT.

• Weight of the HT frame is lower than that of a FS in the same price range.

• The hardtail bikes provide a fixed geometry, which does not change the position of the body and certain distances, such as chainline or distance from the saddle. The pedaling and braking are more ”stable”. In general, FS frames have such changes, although various types of geometry try to eliminate them as possible.

• Allow installing a luggage rack on the back of the frame.

Disadvantages of Hardtail bikes

• The biggest drawback of HT bikes to the FS is, of course, that all the shocks produced by passing over bumps are transmitted almost entirely to the rider. Not only is this inconvenient and produces powerful shocks, but high speed in downhill can lead to destabilization of the rear part of the bicycle. Also, when over large obstacles, HT bikes risk losing the grip, which is better in FS bikes.

• All this leads to a lower speed cycling on very rough terrain. However, shocks are not transmitted at a rate of 100%, some of them being absorbed by tires. Finally, depending on the material the HT is made of, it may also absorb the shock.

• From this point of view, aluminum is the most rigid, opposite to steel. Carbon is a material that allows obtaining the desired stiffness in different sections of the frame, so there are carbon frames that have the back part intentionally built more flexible to take over some of the shock.

Hardtail bikes: Conclusion

HT bikes are the number one choice for those on a low budget. These kind of bikes are also preferred by those who ride on less harsh roads and those who want a more powerful acceleration. They are suitable both for the city and for short distance competitions.

Benefits of Full-Suspension bikes

• The most obvious advantage is that the rear suspension fully absorbs the bumps encountered. Thus, a descent on the rocks changes from a continuous shaking to a smooth descent with a slight swing up and down

• On roads full of rocks and roots, full suspension bikes allow cycling with a higher speed, whether it's climbing, downhill or flat.

• Shocks received by the rider’s bones are smaller.

Disadvantages of Full-Suspension bikes

• The purchase price is high, the cheapest premium FS models starting from $1000, with a modest equipment. Do not be fooled by any new FS bikes much below this price, those are of poor quality, and rather just have a spring suspension which destabilizes the bike, instead of stabilizing it and junctions of the frame are of poor quality, which will break in time.

• Because of the flexible frame, there is energy loss in pedaling, which is seen best on flat surfaces and asphalt. Manufacturers tried to solve this issue with suspensions locks, allowing the possibility of making it nearly as rigid as a HT. The market also offers more adanced systems that are more intelligent, and can distinguish movement caused by the foot by the one produced by an obstacle. These top systems manage to not interfere with pedaling yet to absorb shocks from obstacles.

• Frame is more complicated, there are several points of wear, including bearings and bushings in the junction and damper and it contains parts that wear out. Basically, that's caught damper bushes and bearings need to be changed after a period of use and damper, as well as suspension fork, require regular maintenance to oil change, replacing gaskets, etc ...

• Rear suspension adjustment according to user needs.

• The weight of a FS frame is larger than that of a HT frame of the same quality;

• Full suspension bikes do not allow easy installation of luggage rack on the back of the frame. However, there are models that support being fastened to the saddle, but they are not as reliable and strong as the grip on back swing.

• Depending on the type of joint, changing the bike frame geometry can affect cycling by changing the distance between saddle and pedals, and also chainline, with influence on pedaling or braking.

Full-Suspension bikes: Conclusion

FS bikes are preferred by those who go more on trails with rocks, roots and other obstacles. In competitions, they are preferable in triathlons, where the rider needs to cycle distances of over 50 km. However, expensive lightweight models with hi-tech suspension systems also began to be used successfully in short distance competitions.

What Type Of Bike Do You Need?

Buying a full suspension bike for the city is an unnecessary expense. A higher quality hardtail bike (at the same price) will bring more benefits to the user. Weigh the pros and cons, thinking about where you want to use your bike so you can make the right decision.

Flat Bike Tire Quick Fix Tips

A flat bike tire is the most common mechanical problem for cyclists. While the idea of changing a flat sounds daunting, it’s actually an easy fix. To avoid getting stranded (or surfing through half the contacts on your mobile phone), grab your wheel, a set of tire levers and an air pump and practice changing your bike’s tube.

Step 1: Remove the bike wheel

Begin by either unhooking or flipping the lever on the cable that clasps your brakes together. This ensures there’s space for the wheel to pass through the brakes. Then either unscrew the bolt or flip the lever on the wheel’s quick release and loosen it. If you need to replace the front tire, remove it. If the puncture’s on the rear tire, shift the chain to the smallest rear cog and then pull the derailleur back, sliding the wheel out from the chain.

Step 2: Locate the offender

It could be a tiny piece of glass or a sharp cinder that caused the flat. Hitting a pothole can also compress the tire, pinching a hole in the bike tube. Hitting a larger object like a rock will leave a gash in the sidewall of the tire, which is usually easy to spot. Start by checking the valve stem for damage and if it looks okay, fix your peepers on the rest of the tire, slowly scanning it for damage. If you locate something that doesn’t belong, carefully remove it.

Step 3: Remove the flat bike tire

Let the rest of the air out of the bike tire and then grab your tire levers and slide

the edge of the lever under the tire’s stiff bead on the side opposite to the valve stem. Push the bead toward the center of the tire as you slide the lever underneath and move around the tire. If you can’t unseat the bead with just one lever, hook the first lever on a spoke and slide a second lever under the bead. Then carefully work your way around the tire. Once the tire is unseated on one side, carefully pull the valve stem out of the wheel. Inspect the tube and tire for damage and remove any sharp items. It’s crucial that you remove the sharp object from the tire or you’ll have another flat in your future.

Step 4: Replace the flat bike tube

While you can patch a tube, it’s still safer to replace it. Take the new tube, open the valve stem and blow enough air to just barely inflate it so it begins to take shape. Next insert the valve stem into the hole in the rim and slip the tube into the tire. When one side/bead of the tire is in the rim, repeat this step on the other side, using your thumbs to push the tire onto the rim, working from the valve stem out. Just be careful not to pinch the tube in the rim.

Step 5: Inflate the new bike tire

Before you begin adding air, take one last look to ensure that the tube isn’t sticking out of the tire. Then inflate the tire using either a CO2 cartridge or pump and reinstall the wheel. Don’t forget to replace your CO2 cartridge and tube so you’re prepared for the next time.

Quick tips to avoid a flat bike tire:

• Inspect your bike tires regularly for excessive wear, flat spots or any sharp objects
• If you accidentally ride through glass, reach down with the palm of your glove and lightly scrape the bike tire as it spins (careful with the rear tire) or stop riding and spin the tire
• Check your tire pressure every couple of rides and inflate it to the proper PSI. Under and over-inflated tires are both susceptible to pinch flats
• Avoid riding through debris
• Frequent flats? Talk to your local bike shop about using a more durable bike tube or tire
• Ride with the right bike tools with you

How to Pick the Right Bike Trailer

A bike trailer proves to be a valuable choice and just like everything else, one remains spoilt for choices when shopping for the right one. Nevertheless, you must make some choices and get the best bike trailer for your needs. It will all depend on how you are going to use it and how often.

Carrying heavy items

If you think you would need to carry some heavy and bulky cargo, then there are plenty of bike trailer designs that will cater to your needs. Or, if you think you need something special, you can have a custom bike trailer made for you.

Two wheel or single wheel bike trailer

First, you’ll have to decide if you need a single wheel bike trailer or two wheel cargo carrier.
Single wheel bike trailers follow directly in-line with your bicycle and are as wide as your bike’s handle bars.
Two-wheel bike trailers are more stable in balance but are wide and bulky for city streets or bike paths. Whether you are looking for stability for heavy and large cargo, or maneuverability, its up to you.
The carrying capacity of single or two wheel bike trailers are both restricted, so do your research before you settle on one style/design.

Child carrier bike trailer

If you will be carrying children in the bike trailer, then you will need a robust trailer with wide spaced wheels and a seat belt for the child. The bike trailer should have a rain-proof cover and the child must also wear a safety helmet. It should also be padded to offer a comfortable seating.
For more information about bike trailers, please download the FREE ‘Bicycle Trailer & Cargo Carrier Buyers Guide.’

Getting started with clipless pedals: Advice for first time users..

Getting started with clipless pedals: Advice for first time users..

First, let's answer a few questions - why are they called "clipless" pedals when you have to "clip" into them? It's because they don't have the classic toe-clips with leather straps and buckles.

Why use them? Because you can use a lower gear and pedal at higher cadences with a more efficient circular pedalling motion rather than an up-and-down action. This reduces wear and tear on your knees and reduces muscle fatigue, improving endurance.

Also as I recently been reminded, clipless pedals can help prevent knee pain by allowing a certain amount of float or rotation of the lower limb which helps to relieve stress on the knee joint during pedaling.

Why are they better than toe-clips? Well, they are safer - they release quickly and easily. To achieve a good pedaling action with toe clips your shoes have to be strapped in tightly, making it much more difficult to start and stop. And they can cause injuries if you fall as they don't release to take the pressure off your joints.

Reader feedback: I would add another advantage, for those of us on recumbents, you will often have reduced foot numbness using clipless; you don't have to press as hard on the pedal to maintain foot position. And for those on low racer recumbents and most trikes, clipless are darned near mandatory. If your foot slips off on one of these bikes, there's a chance you'll catch your foot on the ground and can break bones.

Before you start
You will need to obtain a set of clipless pedals and a pair of cycling shoes, setup with correctly placed cleats. Your LBS can advise.

The are two main types of pedal/shoe systems. Road bike systems use a stiff-soled lightweight shoe with a protruding cleat. These are difficult to walk in and so are not very suitable for touring.

A warning - road cycling cleats can be very slippery on hard surfaces. Walk like you're on ice, and put your foot down squarely when dismounting.

MTB pedal/shoe systems use a sole similar to a stiff hiking shoe, and have a recessed cleat and a rugged tread for grip on slippery surfaces. The most common of these MTB systems is the Shimano SPD.

Some General Advice
First - while you are learning, you will very likely fall down. When you come to a halt but forget to unclip, when you put your foot down and it slips away from you, when you start off and can't get your cleat to clip in. We've all done it at some time, so don't let it faze you.

Go to a park or grassy area to practice, so you don't injure yourself or damage your shiny new bike.
Ride on top of the pedals wearing running shoes to get used to balancing the bike before you attempt the clipless pedals. It's also a good idea to practice balancing your bike at low speeds. And try balancing while standing on the pedals, you should find this position more stable than the seated position at low speed.

If your saddle is adjusted to the correct height, you won't be able to reach the ground while seated. Trying to tip-toe will inevitably result in an embarrassing fall. If you are struggling, try lowering your saddle temporarily, but don't forget to reset it once you get used to the new pedals.

Most clipless pedal have adjustable release pressure, and while you are getting used to them, the pedal release pressure should be set lightly so it's easy to unclip. You can tighten them later if necessary - when you are ready to join the sprint.

Before you start, decide which foot you are going to put down to dismount. It's surprising how many people don't know this, but it's something you never think about when you use platform pedals. I usually put my left foot down (we ride on the left, Down Under), but some prefer to use their right foot to allow for the camber of the road. I've even seen some people unclip both feet but I don't recommend this practice as it's very de-stabilising.

Practice, practice, practice the action to unclip - for most pedals you need to rotate your heel away from the bike to release them. This requires quite a deliberate action so make sure you are comfortable with it before you start.

Getting on
Clipless pedals are designed to hang down at the back, so you can hook the front of the cleat in, then press down to engage the rear of the cleat. When the pedals are new they may be a little stiff and not hang correctly, but they will loosen up quickly with use.

To start off with clipless pedals you clip in one foot, push away, and once rolling, clip in the other foot. You have to get this done while you still have enough speed to maintain balance. This what causes beginners the most problems, as they can't get clipped in quickly. You can practice this while stationary by sitting on your bike with the support of a fence, pole, wall, or someone to hold you. Practice until you can do it without looking at the pedal.

It's important to choose the correct gear to start off in. Too high a gear requires too much effort to get rolling, but too low a gear means you don't get up enough speed to maintain your balance while you clip the other foot in. A slight downhill slope is an aid when you are learning. Even for experienced riders it can be difficult to start on an uphill slope, so avoid them if you can.

First make sure you have enough clear space ahead of you to get clipped in. OK, so get on your bike and clip into your pedal. When you are ready to go, push firmly down on the pedal to get rolling. Don't try to push away with the foot on the ground, your cleat may very likely slip on a hard surface. Once you are rolling and have the bike balanced, raise your foot and clip in. You will probably want to look at the pedal, but it's actually easier (and safer) if you don't look.

I prefer to do all this while standing, it keeps the centre of gravity low so it's easier to balance. Others prefer to do it seated, it's up to you.

If you can't get cleat to engage, back pedal and take another stroke to keep you rolling, or put your foot on top of the pedal for a stroke or two while you build up speed. Be careful doing this though - your shoe may easily slip off the pedal if you apply too much pressure.

Getting off
Dismounting ought to be easy, but it still causes problem for beginners. Most commonly, you forget to unclip. You need to plan ahead when you are going to stop, and unclip well before you loose the speed needed to maintain balance.

When you are not expecting the stop - when the traffic lights change or to avoid some hazard, you'll have to get unclipped quickly. This relies on your reactions so you need to practice unclipping until you can do it automatically. Try to read the way ahead and be alert for unplanned stops.

Learn to rise off the saddle, standing on the clipped in pedal just as you stop, this lowers the centre of gravity, so you are better balanced - then you can place your free foot squarely to the road, leaning the bike over at the same time.

Think it sounds complicated? Well, yes it does. But within no time at all you'll be able to mount and dismount without even thinking about it.

Have a good ride!
A final thought - if you are really struggling to come to grips with your clipless pedals, there are pedals such as the Shimano A530 which have a SPD clipless mount on one side and a flat platform on the other. It's easy to get up to balancing speed using the platform side then you flip them over and clip in.

And the Shimano M545 is double-sided but has a large platform and is very easy to engage. It's best to use the silver SPD SH56 multi-release cleats in conjunction with these pedals.